Team Losi JRXS

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Old 10-05-2005, 10:02 PM
  #8146  
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Anyone else?
I am running 19t on asphault on a medium sized track. I know it isn't carpet but it's probably pretty close to the same gear ratio. My ideal setup has been to run a 36 tooth pinion. I thought the same thing as you when I saw that 37-40 was ideal and, sure enough, when i started with a 37 it was too high. So I would start with a 36......it's always better for your motor to start too low than too high.
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Old 10-06-2005, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Trakside Trucke
Hi CCFM here
Im am sitting here preping my chassis and am a little confused as on the losi web site it says to glue the edge of the chassis, but when speaking with Dave Spashet the other day, he said not to do this as when the chassis 'Twists' a cracking sound can be heard which is apparently the glue cracking. I dont want to glue the edge if this is going to happen and having to remove the glue in the future, but bare in mind Dave Spashet does run a MSX

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!

can some one please give me the answer to this ?
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Old 10-06-2005, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Trakside Trucke
can some one please give me the answer to this ?
I would not worry to much about that if I where you, I dont know what noise Dave's hearing, but it won't be the cyno unless he is wringing the the chassi's neck
Geoff
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Old 10-06-2005, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Trakside Trucke
can some one please give me the answer to this ?
I don't mean to disrespect Mr. Spashett, but I haven't heard of such issues regarding chassis prep. Gluing the edges cleanly won't harm your chassis and it will protect it from delamination.
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Old 10-06-2005, 03:56 AM
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Cheers for that guy's but remember I said it was noticed on his Tamiya chassis that he heard the cyano cracking, not on the Losi I WILL GO AHEAD AND GLUE IT NOW
TCCFM
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Old 10-06-2005, 04:10 AM
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anybody know a good setup for ozite for jrxs? what tires also, etc. i am running in stock class?
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Old 10-06-2005, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rcracingkid
I have run my jrxs on carpet with very good results (raced with the foam class for fun) and ran a 35/128 on a 110' striaght away. I also have a setup if you need.. it feels good for me anyways. That is for c2 bases.
Would be greatful if you can pass it along. If it's for rubber carpet.
thanx
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Old 10-06-2005, 05:41 AM
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Trakside, Keep in mind Spash can get free chassis pretty easy if the delaminate? I would glue it and make it as durable as possible. The thin Losi glue is actually a little flexible if applied correctly(thin bead dripped down the edeg white holding vertical).

J., cool stickers, next batch of bodies to paint i'm assuming there may be some in the box? heh heh...............Jim
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Old 10-06-2005, 05:46 AM
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if yoiu use CA make sure if you dont' want white spots on your chassis to mask one side of your Chassis before you glue it. It will help you keep from Getting glue all over the serface.
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Old 10-06-2005, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Gearhead3
if yoiu use CA make sure if you dont' want white spots on your chassis to mask one side of your Chassis before you glue it. It will help you keep from Getting glue all over the serface.
apply glue to q-tip, use q-tip to apply glue to chassis.
no mess this way
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Old 10-06-2005, 08:46 AM
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Cool Losi design

I design products myself (not the RC industry) and I find the Losi JRXS to be quite elegant. It is simple, stiff and very well thought out.
I run it locally with guys all running Xrays and TC4 cars.
I am not quite the driver some of these other guys are. I assure you all of the racers that have driven my car have said it is almost unfair how it handles compaired to their cars. On the track it seems I can do things they cannot and I know it is not my skill by any means.
The centered design means the car does not roll like the other cars. I can run the car lower, with harder tires and carry the speed more. Tire wear is almost not and issue when compaired to other cars.
It is different. The design is new.
I don't think the Losi drivers are the cream of the crop right now. Hince the lack of dominance in big races. The car is competitive and I guarantee Masami, Reinhardt or Hara could win with it. It not because of the car as much as it is they are that good. These races are finished with mere seconds seperating the leaders only because there is not enough room for the cars to be any closer.
Keep watching and I think you will see this car podium more and more.
R&D must continue to provide the best products with the best value year after year.
Jim - Get to WORK! I'll see you at World Cup.
TEX
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:00 AM
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Wedjimmy- YEAH! Get to work...ahahhah...thanks for the compliment! Why aren't you at Speedline this week? Tied down with real work, family, etc? "THAT'S the problem with those.." ehehhehe
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Old 10-06-2005, 09:53 AM
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J., LOL, Worky Worky Worky..........Sleep has become a luxury and on-road comes after sleep. Off road i'll squeeze in though, Gas regionals next weekend here and less then $300 to enter...haha.......Jim
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Old 10-06-2005, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by R/C Anonymous
so your making all these bracketswhen supposedly the NEW updated arms are coming out very shortly and they include the shock mounting position of where the BK bracket is...is that a good investment?

It's a great investment since the new arms are cracking but yes the arms will be done next week not anodized.
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Old 10-06-2005, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
Would be greatful if you can pass it along. If it's for rubber carpet.
thanx
This is for rubber tires on carpet.

Front:
30lb spring with 2 white orings above the blatter
60wt oil, 60 piston
camber link middle
shock middle
diff with brown grease
roll center high with 2degrees pivot
1 degrees toe out
ae silver ball stud with 2 .03 washers for bumpsteer, rack normal
6 degrees caster
3mm uptravel for droop
wheelbase middle
diff high
-1 camber
4.5mm ride height

Rear:
20lb spring with 1 red oring above blatter
40wt oil, 57pistion
shock in 3rd hole in on tower, outer on arm
camber link long in middle hieght(vertically) on tower
link closer to bearing on the hub
.5 degrees offset rear hubs, 2 degrees pivot (total 2.5)
roll center blocks low with the thicker (.050) shim to space them up
wheelbase middle
diff high
.060 sway bar, links perpendicular
4mm uptravel from droop
-1 camber
5mm ride height

Misc:
Mazda 6 body
chasis standoffs used
no bk/pk brackets
i use the bearings on the cvd/lcd pins

Works well for me, very smooth, plenty of steering, i hope you find it decent. Sorry if i forgot anything, just ask.
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