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Old 09-30-2005, 05:00 PM   #8041
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The brackets help with the fact that the arms have a lot of leverage over the shock compared to a typical longer arm car. Look at how close the shock is to the inner hinge pin.
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Old 09-30-2005, 05:20 PM   #8042
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RobK is right. What the BK brackets are doing is increasing the amount of leverage the shock has on the suspension arm. This makes it easier for the shock to do its job of controling the motion of the wheels and chassis (hence the lighter springs and damping of the bracket set ups vs. non-bracket set ups). This translates to a smoother, more consistant feel, like everyone has mentioned when switching to the BK brackets. This is the same theory behind Tamiya's DJ Pro Module suspension for the 415, and I believe the theory has been applied in off-road for years (starting back in the Losi XX days I think).

In terms of the rear motored prototype, I was told by a factory driver that the rear motored sedan came before the buggy proto.

I was also thinking that the rear motored car may initiate into corners better. Wit a more forward weight bias, you may increase front traction, but you may also increase the inertia of the front end, making it not want to turn and therefore slowing down the reaction of the car to steering inputs. A lighter front end may be more reactive and change directions faster, leading to more overall steering. Just a thought, does it make sense to anyone?

Oh, and sorry about the novel...
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Old 09-30-2005, 05:25 PM   #8043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
Rain is right, the car is a pain to work on. I got a JRXS with the hope that it would be as good and easy to work on as my FK05 but the fact is the car although inovative was too fustrating for me to put up with.

First The battery situation is crazy. I buy assembled packs for their induction welding assembly to get lower IR and with the Losi you have to remove a couple of bars, cut 1/3 off and then re-install them @ a 45deg inward angle and bend them slightly up and out so you can finagle them in the car to just to be able to do the tricy solder job. In addition to the batt situation you need to have 2 sets of ball cups for the rear, 1 cut down to use the shortling and another uncut for all other link positions. The bk brackets that greatly improve the car for MOD are required and take some work to fit the car including the cutting of shock ends to allow for correct suspension travel. The servo mounts are too close to the front belt and require you to file down the servo ear to prevent them from rubbing on the belt, the low diff setting when combined with the high roll center binds the suspension and the list of bugs keeps going frm there. In general the car just felt underdeveloped but still performed well under most conditions.

I know many will point out the pains of changing a belt, diff, or spur on my X-ray but really how often do you need do those things compared to a battery installation or camberlink change.

Mark
This not ment just toward you, but the constant complaing of everyone, my self included...

Begin Rant Now...
Good LORD... Would you guys like someone from Losi to come and whipe you arse for you also... Oh, I cant change my battery in 5 seconds, SO WHAT!! When has it ever been a race to change your battery?? Why did Losi put out such an incomplete car!!?? boo hoo How come my chassis didn't come sanded, glued and assmebled, I can't do it for my self.
End Rant Now.

Sorry
E

That's why I'm not sponsored... plus my driving isn't that good I think thats also the fault of Losi...
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Old 09-30-2005, 05:34 PM   #8044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floss_LUC
Hi,

I know there are threads for this and all, but I repect the opinons of people who post in this thread.

I need to get a new charger and cant decide between the orion advantage or the muchmore cell master. What are people using and what do people suggest??

Thanks,
Gareth
The orion is a little weird to get around in, but charger seems to work pretty well. I hav no experience with the MMCM, but it looks cool, if I could get one through my LHS I would have one.

If you want something to break in motors get something designed to do that. The one's offered by peak, orion and mm look to be the same. The mm my have different sofware though, I don't know that for sure.

E
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Old 09-30-2005, 05:51 PM   #8045
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Default Update on a newbie's experience

I have been posting questions and problems regarding my JRXS which I have been building for the last week. Well it is finally done. I ended up using some, but not all of the Numan setup. I don't have the parts needed for the rest (e.g., I don't have the BK brackets, different shock pistons, and a few others). Thus, I am running a weird hybrid of the factory stock config and the Numan config. I am sure this is likely to give severely compromised results, but . . . .

I just ran it today for the first time. I was using the Skoda shell and wing. All I can say is what a contrast from my Team TC4. The TC4 now feels like a tractor by comparison. The JRXS transitions amazingly fast and initiates turns much more easily. I spent 20 minutes practicing at my favorite site (a pair of tennis courts with my orange dots marking a course). I started slowly, but after the first pack, had the car at full speed and cornering very nicely.

I can't wait to refine the set up, but even as is, it feels much easier to drive than the TC4.

Thanks for all the help, encouarment, and occassional slapping around when the whining got too intense.

Ira
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Old 09-30-2005, 05:58 PM   #8046
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anyone ever lay their fully assembled chassis on a flat surface? mine has tweak in it from corner to corner....makes my droop off a few millimeters per side...otherwise everything else is great
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Old 09-30-2005, 06:11 PM   #8047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/C Anonymous
anyone ever lay their fully assembled chassis on a flat surface? mine has tweak in it from corner to corner....makes my droop off a few millimeters per side...otherwise everything else is great
I had something simiar a couple weeks ago after hitting the end straight wall at almost 30mph. I had to take everything OFF the main chassis and loosen all of the top plate screws reassemble and then the tweak went away.

E
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Old 09-30-2005, 06:24 PM   #8048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug D
Bill/Brant - I had bearings disintegrate on the right front bone as well. I was using a spool that is epoxy together. I thought the diff out drives would fail before the bearing would.

Brant - Have you broken any diff out drives? Just wondering because you’re using the stock bones. Also, have you tried a one-way with the six degree blocks? xxx-s blocks should work, right?
Yep I have busted 1 right side outdrive but it was a bad crash and it exploded the right arm and bent the hinge pin as well. I have not run my one-way in the car yet, so no info.

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Old 09-30-2005, 06:49 PM   #8049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Yep I have busted 1 right side outdrive but it was a bad crash and it exploded the right arm and bent the hinge pin as well. I have not run my one-way in the car yet, so no info.

Brant
I bent a hinge pin on my TC4 in a hard crash that also broke a suspension arm. When I was building the JRXS, I was amazed at how thick the hinge pins were. At least 20% thicker than on the TC4. Bending one of those must have required quite a crash ;-)

Ira
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Old 09-30-2005, 07:14 PM   #8050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R/C Anonymous
anyone ever lay their fully assembled chassis on a flat surface? mine has tweak in it from corner to corner....makes my droop off a few millimeters per side...otherwise everything else is great
happened to me too after a heavy crash my chassis was tweaked. loosened all top and bottom screws and the tweak was till there, but when I loosened the shock tower screws the tweak was gone. check those then retighten everything.
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Old 09-30-2005, 08:37 PM   #8051
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I think alot of racers are concentrating on the weight of the motor, but forgetting about the "gyro" effect it generates?

Moving the motor around on a prototype sounds reasonable, personally, i'm glad Losi went to carbon sheet, so they have the option of seeing if something "might" be faster or better in some other way.

I think that the car is VERY competitive, but when the TeamLosi guys have to try and run down guys like Hara, Reinhard, Surikarn and the others at that level, it isn't easy, even with the best car, since the best to worst may be a 5 or 6 second spread(of course that hypethetical)? Not that Todd, Matt and Billy aren't awesome, but racing against guys that are unreal is making it tuff to prove the design. I think Billy will continue to improve with TL over time.....But, when Masami can't beat these guys, what does that say? Especially when Masami was the only driver other then Hara to make the main at off road AND on road worlds........................The JRX-S is a great car now, Jim
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Old 09-30-2005, 08:43 PM   #8052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniracer
happened to me too after a heavy crash my chassis was tweaked. loosened all top and bottom screws and the tweak was till there, but when I loosened the shock tower screws the tweak was gone. check those then retighten everything.
i havent even put it on the trackyet which makes it all the weirder
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:20 PM   #8053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
I bent a hinge pin on my TC4 in a hard crash that also broke a suspension arm. When I was building the JRXS, I was amazed at how thick the hinge pins were. At least 20% thicker than on the TC4. Bending one of those must have required quite a crash ;-)

Ira
It was quite a site actually! TQ for the day and half a lap on the field when I went just a touch to high and outside to pass a lapper. Sheered the right front off life a scalple!! LOL Funniest part was I had 45 seconds left in the race so I limped it around and finished second. Oh Well.....

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Old 10-01-2005, 02:19 AM   #8054
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How in the heck do you guys get the belt on this JRX-S. The way the intructions say to do it.....it's immpossible. You have to damage the belt and stretch it over either the rear diff gear or the middle gear. How the heck do you guys get these belts on without damaging them?????
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Old 10-01-2005, 03:36 AM   #8055
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the belts easily slide on, the diff has to be in a loose position and then tightend after the belt is around the diff and the pulley
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