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Old 09-30-2005, 01:55 AM   #8026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
In regard to moving the motor back just a bit, has anyone tried using the 118T spur gear?

I've actually only run the 118, I figure it puts the motor most toward the centerline as possible, I ran the 128 for one run and it felt a little different. didnt really like it

Last edited by TCR; 09-30-2005 at 04:37 AM.
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Old 09-30-2005, 03:16 AM   #8027
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Check out the batt config on the rear motor proto
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:31 AM   #8028
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I'm studying on some concepts, would anyone measure the distance between the bulkhead? and the thickness of bulkhead?

*Thanks to the photo from radiocontrol.gr and and JRXS.com
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Old 09-30-2005, 08:16 AM   #8029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Bill--I'm guessing the spool was the cause of damage to both sides. Since its locked up what ever happens to one side has to affect the other. I have only run the BK bones on the rear this year and its mainly due to the fact I fogot to do the fronts at the same time! LOL Oh well sounds like a good screw up on my part.

Brant

Bill/Brant - I had bearings disintegrate on the right front bone as well. I was using a spool that is epoxy together. I thought the diff out drives would fail before the bearing would.

Brant - Have you broken any diff out drives? Just wondering because you’re using the stock bones. Also, have you tried a one-way with the six degree blocks? xxx-s blocks should work, right?
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Old 09-30-2005, 08:18 AM   #8030
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rainblows,
I think you need to drive this car before you make any opinions on it. I was fairly biased on the cars design until I had raced it. It is one of the best feeeling cars I have owned. It transitions quicker that any car out there. The BK mounts were developed to help slow down the quick transition and make the car seem less twitchy, I for one like a twitchy car. Well not too twitchy. It seems to be able to have steering in any part of the turn, I can make passes out of the line and hold speed and get back in the line without fear of the car being on or over the edge. I do think it is a pain to work on some parts of the car, but every car is a little different to work on and has it's own faults.

As far as the new motor/battery layout, I think the guys were designing the a new offroad prototype and said what do you think about trying this layout in the sedan. Since off road car typically like to have rear weight bias, moving the motor to rear makes more sense. I think the current layout works great. You also have to remember that this car is going to take a little time to get setup right. After several setups, I have now found a setup that works good for me. This car feel better that any car car I have ran, I haven't however tried a FK05 or a RDX.

I was able to qualify third over all and one of three that turn 29 laps. A costly pinion change kept me out of contention for a Amain win.
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Old 09-30-2005, 11:02 AM   #8031
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Rain is right, the car is a pain to work on. I got a JRXS with the hope that it would be as good and easy to work on as my FK05 but the fact is the car although inovative was too fustrating for me to put up with.

First The battery situation is crazy. I buy assembled packs for their induction welding assembly to get lower IR and with the Losi you have to remove a couple of bars, cut 1/3 off and then re-install them @ a 45deg inward angle and bend them slightly up and out so you can finagle them in the car to just to be able to do the tricy solder job. In addition to the batt situation you need to have 2 sets of ball cups for the rear, 1 cut down to use the shortling and another uncut for all other link positions. The bk brackets that greatly improve the car for MOD are required and take some work to fit the car including the cutting of shock ends to allow for correct suspension travel. The servo mounts are too close to the front belt and require you to file down the servo ear to prevent them from rubbing on the belt, the low diff setting when combined with the high roll center binds the suspension and the list of bugs keeps going frm there. In general the car just felt underdeveloped but still performed well under most conditions.

I know many will point out the pains of changing a belt, diff, or spur on my X-ray but really how often do you need do those things compared to a battery installation or camberlink change.

Mark
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Old 09-30-2005, 12:34 PM   #8032
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I agree the car is not the simplist to tool on. If I wanted simple, I would have kept my BD. The BD is the best car to tool on, but it could get it done on the carpet.

As far as the batteries are concerned, I use high end bullet connectors, aka corally conectors. I solder my own packs and up until I got this car, never used conectors. Some don't like connectors, I didn't either until I got this car. Much easier that soldering around those dam belts.
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Old 09-30-2005, 03:18 PM   #8033
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Hi,

I know there are threads for this and all, but I repect the opinons of people who post in this thread.

I need to get a new charger and cant decide between the orion advantage or the muchmore cell master. What are people using and what do people suggest??

Thanks,
Gareth
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Old 09-30-2005, 03:21 PM   #8034
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get the much more

the I had some problems with my orion and sold it. Fan had issues, had a charging problem sometimes

Unless you absolutly need the motor run feature, get the muchmore, its a far superior charger. Muchmore is smaller with bigger fans and said to be better software. But actually having both is not a bad idea, it gives you everything you'd ever want.
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Old 09-30-2005, 03:32 PM   #8035
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IMHO Muchmore cellmaster and Orion Advantage are the same!
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:00 PM   #8036
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I had an Orion Advantage. Didn't like it. Getting threought the menu was a pain. My new A.P.S. Dyno charger v3 is the bomb! Menu navig. is soo easy.
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:05 PM   #8037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
Rain is right, the car is a pain to work on. I got a JRXS with the hope that it would be as good and easy to work on as my FK05 but the fact is the car although inovative was too fustrating for me to put up with.

First The battery situation is crazy. I buy assembled packs for their induction welding assembly to get lower IR and with the Losi you have to remove a couple of bars, cut 1/3 off and then re-install them @ a 45deg inward angle and bend them slightly up and out so you can finagle them in the car to just to be able to do the tricy solder job. In addition to the batt situation you need to have 2 sets of ball cups for the rear, 1 cut down to use the shortling and another uncut for all other link positions. The bk brackets that greatly improve the car for MOD are required and take some work to fit the car including the cutting of shock ends to allow for correct suspension travel. The servo mounts are too close to the front belt and require you to file down the servo ear to prevent them from rubbing on the belt, the low diff setting when combined with the high roll center binds the suspension and the list of bugs keeps going frm there. In general the car just felt underdeveloped but still performed well under most conditions.

I know many will point out the pains of changing a belt, diff, or spur on my X-ray but really how often do you need do those things compared to a battery installation or camberlink change.

Mark
Built my own batts and havn't had any probs with fitment. It does take some time but it came out right. I'd rather change a shock end or ball end than diff. hardness in arms and a thicker chassis for carpet anyday.
Don't have any binding in my susp. either. My Futaba 9451 fits fine with no rubbing. I'm happy
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:08 PM   #8038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCR
Unless you absolutly need the motor run feature,

Also, the Orion is lilited to 10 amps motor running, so this will limit the wind of motors that it will spin....

The Orion is suppose to have multipule step charge memories, but I'm yet to find how this is programmed.....
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:21 PM   #8039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
The BK mounts were developed to help slow down the quick transition and make the car seem less twitchy, I for one like a twitchy car.
Wouldn't changing the roll center (via inner hinge pin or camber link height) allow a similar adjustment? or shock setup? Seems then the BK mounts allowed the car to roll more? Lessen the effect of the in-line batt-motor some?

Different thought. On motor position, assume a more mid position is optimal (for some given suspension geometry) for front-back static and dynamic effects. Would a split 3x3 batt pack with motor between them work? Both still in-line. Though you lose the stick pack folks.
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:49 PM   #8040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Also, the Orion is lilited to 10 amps motor running, so this will limit the wind of motors that it will spin....

The Orion is suppose to have multipule step charge memories, but I'm yet to find how this is programmed.....
I had dififculty navigting through the menu and trying to figure it out. So I gave up on it. Kinda think it's over rated. My new A.P.S. has all those features plus extras with out the discharge mode. I got bulbs and a tray for that. I figure I'll be charging more batts and testing than discharging.
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