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Old 09-28-2005, 11:31 AM   #7981
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This is not directed at anyone person or persons, but to the Racing community as a whole. I keep reading about how I had to trim this-or that had too much slop or I had to modify this so the car is of low quality.

Well-you can build the car right out of the box and even a little sloppy or a little bound-up, a little air in a shock, tweaked-it will run. But racing in any form, or being succesful at racing is about how much effort you put into it. Pure racing were talking about here. Not only how much effort you put into your driving and all that that implies, but also how much effort you put into your equipment.

Now-I wont argue that a RDX or Xray suspension builds better than a Losi suspension or a TC3 out of the box, but they demand every bit as much effort to make it the best it can be as any other car.

Hand fitting is part of racing. Weve got it easy in RC people. You want an all hand fitting job-build a formula car or a racing kart from scratch. Heck, just put in a throttle cable or mount a new nose cone!!
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Old 09-28-2005, 01:09 PM   #7982
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I think most of what was said, prepping the carbon sheet chassis, etc. isn't a gripe about the JRX-S in particular(obviously a fan of other cars who cruises the thread for some reason saw an opportunity). Since every competitive sedan is now using the same material, Every sedan requires the same prep. The front castor blocks on my car don't rub the LCD's, but it's safe to assume some may. Also, when it comes to carbon composites some prep is always needed. Cheaper plastics, mold cleaner, so less prep would be normal.

Once someone drives the JRX-S they will see that the car won't be what holds them back at the track, of course drivers who don't do well would still like to think it is the car and not themselves......normal for racers, imo.

Those who are serious about avoiding any real assembly work usually buy RTR. Those who want to win expect to try and biuld the best car they are capable of biulding for any brand!..........Jim
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Old 09-28-2005, 04:02 PM   #7983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
Well, I've done more hard work, but have a few problems & questions.

First, I tried to build the car with as much of the Numan set up as possible within the limits of what is available in the box. I planned to add the additional parts over time to complete the Numan setup.

First problem is with the roll height on the front. The set up sheet says 2 x .050" shims under the pivot mounts. The locating pins don't seem to extend far enough to engage the chassis with this high a shim. Also, it looks really funny. Is it correct that I really need to run 2 of the thick shims under all the piviot mounts?

Second problem is with the front shocks. I started with the front diff set up high and the 41T front pulley gear. I also put the mounting screws for the front shocks in hole 1 on the shock tower. I don't have BK brackets yet, so I just tried to mount the bottom of the shock to the suspension arm. In this configuration, the shock springs pressed against the outdrives quite hard.

I backed the top shock mounting out to hole 2, but the springs still did not clear the outdrives. Finally, I switched the diff height to low and installed an O-ring as a spacer behind the shocks on the suspension arm. With all these changes, the springs just barely clear the outdrives. I'd like to wait for the new suspension arms rather than messing with BK brackets. Is there anything I can do in the mean time to use hole 1 on the shock tower and the high diff setting? Do I need to get longer bolts for connecting the bottom of the shocks to the suspension arms and run a spacer to create more clearance?

Now a question. Is it possible to adjust the diff tightness without removing the longer outdrive? If so, how?

I hope to get 2 battery packs built and the electronics installed in the next 2 days and I look forward to driving this beast.

TIA,
Ira
Roll center-That is correct. We run two .050" shims. You can screw the screw through the shims and it will reach the chassis. I recommend taping the plastic pivot before entering the locating screw.

Shock Clearance-You will want to shim the shock out on the tower so the outdrives do not hit the shock .030" shim should work fine. You can also shim the shock out on the arm by placing a washer between the arm and the shock ball.

Diff Tightness-Yes this is easy. Just take a flat blade screw driver and insert the end of it into the diff tube. You will see the slot for the diff screw. Line the flat end of the screw driver into the slot and you are ready to tighten or loosen your diff.
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Old 09-28-2005, 05:09 PM   #7984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T. Hodge
Roll center-That is correct. We run two .050" shims. You can screw the screw through the shims and it will reach the chassis. I recommend taping the plastic pivot before entering the locating screw.

Shock Clearance-You will want to shim the shock out on the tower so the outdrives do not hit the shock .030" shim should work fine. You can also shim the shock out on the arm by placing a washer between the arm and the shock ball.

Diff Tightness-Yes this is easy. Just take a flat blade screw driver and insert the end of it into the diff tube. You will see the slot for the diff screw. Line the flat end of the screw driver into the slot and you are ready to tighten or loosen your diff.
Thanks for the "official" reply ;-).

I'm understand the points on the shock clearance and adjusting the diff tightness. I did get 4-40 x 1/2" screws to allow running a spacer between the lower shock mounting point and the suspension arm while still having enough screw thread left to secure things fully. I hope there is no problem with this.

I'm a bit confused by your suggestion that I tape the pivot before inserting the locating screw. Where and how should I tape it and how does this help?


TIA,
Ira
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Old 09-28-2005, 05:23 PM   #7985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
This is not directed at anyone person or persons, but to the Racing community as a whole. I keep reading about how I had to trim this-or that had too much slop or I had to modify this so the car is of low quality.

Well-you can build the car right out of the box and even a little sloppy or a little bound-up, a little air in a shock, tweaked-it will run. But racing in any form, or being succesful at racing is about how much effort you put into it. Pure racing were talking about here. Not only how much effort you put into your driving and all that that implies, but also how much effort you put into your equipment.

Now-I wont argue that a RDX or Xray suspension builds better than a Losi suspension or a TC3 out of the box, but they demand every bit as much effort to make it the best it can be as any other car.

Hand fitting is part of racing. Weve got it easy in RC people. You want an all hand fitting job-build a formula car or a racing kart from scratch. Heck, just put in a throttle cable or mount a new nose cone!!
*bow* took the words right outta my mouth
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Old 09-28-2005, 05:36 PM   #7986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
Thanks for the "official" reply ;-).

I'm understand the points on the shock clearance and adjusting the diff tightness. I did get 4-40 x 1/2" screws to allow running a spacer between the lower shock mounting point and the suspension arm while still having enough screw thread left to secure things fully. I hope there is no problem with this.

I'm a bit confused by your suggestion that I tape the pivot before inserting the locating screw. Where and how should I tape it and how does this help?


TIA,
Ira
I think he means 'TAP' the hole not 'TAPE '
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Old 09-28-2005, 06:28 PM   #7987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
Thanks for the "official" reply ;-).

I'm understand the points on the shock clearance and adjusting the diff tightness. I did get 4-40 x 1/2" screws to allow running a spacer between the lower shock mounting point and the suspension arm while still having enough screw thread left to secure things fully. I hope there is no problem with this.

I'm a bit confused by your suggestion that I tape the pivot before inserting the locating screw. Where and how should I tape it and how does this help?


TIA,
Ira
Yep! He meant tap the hole so the locating screw is easier to adjust.

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Old 09-28-2005, 09:48 PM   #7988
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Tapping, not taping Todd. took me a minute too, I was like tape what? Oh never mind.
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Old 09-28-2005, 10:58 PM   #7989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
First, thanks to all for the fast response with good advice.

Second, I plan to run almost exclusively rubber on asphalt. If there is a set up that works well for these conditions that is not as extreme as Numan's I'll give it a try.

Ira
Hi Ira,

I don't consider the Numan setup to be "extreme" by any means. I use it for Expert Stock with the only change being 12.5# springs on the front end as opposed to his 15# units.
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Old 09-29-2005, 03:06 AM   #7990
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42 pics have been posted of the IIC on JRXS.com

http://www.jrxs.net/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=18

Bill, I was hoping I'd see you there, I had no idea who you were, you should of came over. we were right behind the losi guys =)
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Old 09-29-2005, 07:41 AM   #7991
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Is there a new rear motor chassie coming out?? Or is it going to be a whole kit or a converstion?? I was thinking of buying a Jrxs but thought i would wait till they came out with that or the "factory team" edition.

Thanlks
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Old 09-29-2005, 08:18 AM   #7992
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I wouldn't wait for that long to get a JRSX. I don't think it will make it to production anytime soon, if it ever does.
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Old 09-29-2005, 08:31 AM   #7993
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Drew....sent you a PM

Thanks

Jeff
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Old 09-29-2005, 08:32 AM   #7994
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just thought i'd post here first...

I recieved a JRXS in trade recently but do not plan on keeping the car....to many in stable already. It's in great condition and I will probably let it go for a pretty good price...reasonable

if anyone is looking for one on the jrxs thread please feel free to PM or email me and i'll send you pics.

it's not posted forsale or on ebay yet.

thanks.

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Old 09-29-2005, 11:42 AM   #7995
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Just throwing something out for discussion. If the central battery JRXS (motor forward or backwards) isn't faster than contemporary cars (it may be as fast), why not prototype one with a SW, XXXS, 415, or TA05 motor-batt layout? Keep the current JRXS suspension geometry. If it works, it works (plus you have easier batt loading/soldering). Worse case, you learn something (e.g., was it the layout or suspension geomety?). Best case, you have a car that doesn't seem to still be in development (e.g., BK brackets/arms, motor back). How would a short-arm, 2-belt, graphite deck XXXS compare?

I guess another option would be to try a longer arm JRXS, if that is possible. Not sure which would results in fewer new parts.

Even McLaren had to ditch the MP4/18 design along the way to get to the fastest car currently on grid.

Not owning a JRXS and not driven one, I'm curious. What is the current JRXS design doing or not doing on the track to require so much evolution by Losi/Horizon in such a short time since it's release? Looking for good and bad. Assume rubber tire setup for now. Can separate carpet and asphalt.
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