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Old 09-27-2005, 06:24 PM   #7966
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Part Number: A-P00KY7

Actually it would have to be POOKY8. Number 6 was the flat strap bracket and then the "L" PK brackets are number 7 !! LOL

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Old 09-27-2005, 08:54 PM   #7967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
I'm new to this hobby and the JRXS is my first kit. My first car was an RTR TC4, which I have now stripped down to the bare parts and rebuilt several times (to learn and to fix crash damage).

The JRXS seems to need much more grinding and filing than I would have expected for a high end kit. For example, I don't understand why Losi does not mold the rear battery slot so that it fits correctly. Similarly, why do we need to grind away at the chassis to get clearance for the belts when the diffs are set low? Also, why do we have to grind out the front brackets that hold the steering knuckles so that the LCDs will not rub?

It seems to me that all of these things could have been taken care of with proper molding of the parts. I've been working on building this kit for a 4 days. I'm going slowly and carefully and I just can't believe how long it is taking.

The car still looks cool and I really like many of the innovative features, but Losi is making me work hard to enjoy them.

Ira

I have always enjoyed doing little things like grinding with the Dremel and finishing the chassis. I makes the car more personel, and when you win a race it is because you spent the extra time to make things perfect. If every thing in this world went together perfect where would we be?
By the way good luck with the car... I love mine so far.

^^(that sound really stupid but its true)^^
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Old 09-27-2005, 09:06 PM   #7968
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Originally Posted by Roger
Bill: Congrats on the raffle win. You gonna sell that thing on ebay and get some foams and batteries for the carpet season ? Anyways, congrats.
At the IIC, I bought some SMC 3800s with unbelievable numbers (in comparison to anything I have ever had before). So, I'm already halfway there.

And, I gotta see if odpurple wants a Monster truck on his new backyard track.
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Old 09-27-2005, 11:07 PM   #7969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
I'm new to this hobby and the JRXS is my first kit. My first car was an RTR TC4, which I have now stripped down to the bare parts and rebuilt several times (to learn and to fix crash damage).

The JRXS seems to need much more grinding and filing than I would have expected for a high end kit. For example, I don't understand why Losi does not mold the rear battery slot so that it fits correctly. Similarly, why do we need to grind away at the chassis to get clearance for the belts when the diffs are set low? Also, why do we have to grind out the front brackets that hold the steering knuckles so that the LCDs will not rub?

It seems to me that all of these things could have been taken care of with proper molding of the parts. I've been working on building this kit for a 4 days. I'm going slowly and carefully and I just can't believe how long it is taking.

The car still looks cool and I really like many of the innovative features, but Losi is making me work hard to enjoy them.

Ira
Hard work pays off
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Old 09-27-2005, 11:09 PM   #7970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2-Bad
Guys, I've been running my LCD/CVD drive shafts with bearings for about 6 weeks now, and I've had to replace the bearings in the front (LCD) twice now. Has anyone experience the same?

I'm running the spool diff, so I was wondering if this contributed to the bearings collapsing.

Any thoughts?

I have had the same problems. That is why we are working on a spool pad that actually slips under a hard impact. It helps safe the drivetrain immensely.
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Old 09-27-2005, 11:13 PM   #7971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Hodgimoto and other Losi watchers at IIC--What is the verdict on the new chassis layout? More steering? More rear traction? More rotation? Or all of the above? Whats the word?

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With all my testing prior to the IIC, I have felt the car has more grip on low bite surfaces. At the IIC this was the first time the car was on such a high grip track and we did struggle some. MF ran some of the fastest laptimes in the 4th round until a rude dump came upon him. He would of easily made the main and this was using Gil Losi Jr's car. I believe he got down to a 10.9 which tied the fastest lap for that round. We learned some interesting things about the front end that we are still testing. Gil losi Jr was at the track the past two days doing more testing. Talk about determination. We are still uncertain whether or not we will be coming out with this car.
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Old 09-27-2005, 11:33 PM   #7972
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Todd,

Hey! At the IIC, you had "da car" setup some of the time too.

Stockton will be going with foam tires in Expert Stock for this carpet season on new CRC carpet.

Any suggestions on what setup you recommend to start with would be most appreciated.

Still have 95% of the Numan rubber setup on the car now.
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Old 09-27-2005, 11:51 PM   #7973
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Thanks Todd! Tell Gill Jr. to keep after it and yourself too then lets us know waz up.

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Old 09-28-2005, 01:55 AM   #7974
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FYI.....KT Hobbies has the alum battery tray in stock.
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Old 09-28-2005, 03:28 AM   #7975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T. Hodge
Hard work pays off
Well, I've done more hard work, but have a few problems & questions.

First, I tried to build the car with as much of the Numan set up as possible within the limits of what is available in the box. I planned to add the additional parts over time to complete the Numan setup.

First problem is with the roll height on the front. The set up sheet says 2 x .050" shims under the pivot mounts. The locating pins don't seem to extend far enough to engage the chassis with this high a shim. Also, it looks really funny. Is it correct that I really need to run 2 of the thick shims under all the piviot mounts?

Second problem is with the front shocks. I started with the front diff set up high and the 41T front pulley gear. I also put the mounting screws for the front shocks in hole 1 on the shock tower. I don't have BK brackets yet, so I just tried to mount the bottom of the shock to the suspension arm. In this configuration, the shock springs pressed against the outdrives quite hard.

I backed the top shock mounting out to hole 2, but the springs still did not clear the outdrives. Finally, I switched the diff height to low and installed an O-ring as a spacer behind the shocks on the suspension arm. With all these changes, the springs just barely clear the outdrives. I'd like to wait for the new suspension arms rather than messing with BK brackets. Is there anything I can do in the mean time to use hole 1 on the shock tower and the high diff setting? Do I need to get longer bolts for connecting the bottom of the shocks to the suspension arms and run a spacer to create more clearance?

Now a question. Is it possible to adjust the diff tightness without removing the longer outdrive? If so, how?

I hope to get 2 battery packs built and the electronics installed in the next 2 days and I look forward to driving this beast.

TIA,
Ira
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Old 09-28-2005, 04:06 AM   #7976
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diff adjusting is easy, stick an allen wrench in the slotted area of the diff and tighten the wheel.

Numan set up wont work without the Bk bars

I tried running without the bars the other day and car feels really wierd
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Old 09-28-2005, 04:19 AM   #7977
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Quote:
First problem is with the roll height on the front. The set up sheet says 2 x .050" shims under the pivot mounts. The locating pins don't seem to extend far enough to engage the chassis with this high a shim. Also, it looks really funny. Is it correct that I really need to run 2 of the thick shims under all the piviot mounts?
Yup. The locating pin can be screwed through quite far, the threads will protrude but shouldn't be an issue. You will need some longer screws to go through from the bottom though. I run a setup that only uses 1 x 0.050" spacer so that's an option too.

Quote:
Second problem is with the front shocks. I started with the front diff set up high and the 41T front pulley gear. I also put the mounting screws for the front shocks in hole 1 on the shock tower. I don't have BK brackets yet, so I just tried to mount the bottom of the shock to the suspension arm. In this configuration, the shock springs pressed against the outdrives quite hard
You would be best to make / get some brackets before you run the shock on the inner hole, they space the bottom out a little and then you can space the top out about 1/8" and the shocks won't rub.

Quote:
Now a question. Is it possible to adjust the diff tightness without removing the longer outdrive? If so, how?
Yes, the diffs are very easy to adjust in the car, slide a flat blade screwdriver into the diff adjusting screw sideways (through the open slots in the diff cam and the long outdrive ) to lock that side then turn the wheel on the other side of the pulley. Sounds complex but it's easy when you figure it out.

A bit of fiddling around to get everything perfect, but for me that's half the challenge, in any motorsport.
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Old 09-28-2005, 05:45 AM   #7978
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Do you plan on running the Numan setup on asphalt or carpet? Rubber or Foam? Just checking becasue you may not need to run that set up. Also, I use the plastic spacers like used on the pivot block/hinge pins behind my shocks to eliminate that problem.
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Old 09-28-2005, 08:43 AM   #7979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
Do you plan on running the Numan setup on asphalt or carpet? Rubber or Foam? Just checking becasue you may not need to run that set up. Also, I use the plastic spacers like used on the pivot block/hinge pins behind my shocks to eliminate that problem.
First, thanks to all for the fast response with good advice.

Second, I plan to run almost exclusively rubber on asphalt. If there is a set up that works well for these conditions that is not as extreme as Numan's I'll give it a try.

Ira
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Old 09-28-2005, 10:54 AM   #7980
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If anyone's looking for a JRX-S cheap, I got one on the buy/sell boards I'm looking to part with cheap. Got a few wins with it in 19t class this year...but its time to part with it.

Check it out... http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=84993

Darkseid

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