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Old 09-27-2005, 12:58 AM   #7951
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give us a part number bro.

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Part Number: A-P00KY7

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Old 09-27-2005, 02:55 AM   #7952
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Just curious but is the steering increase from the forward battery placement or is it from the motor in the rear causing more rotation? Just wondering. Thanks Bill

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P.S. last week I had an order to New Zealand and Canada, this week one to Norway! Thats a total of 10 countries including the USAl Just pretty cool.

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Someone else over here running a JRX-S ..... curious
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Old 09-27-2005, 04:44 AM   #7953
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Guys, I've been running my LCD/CVD drive shafts with bearings for about 6 weeks now, and I've had to replace the bearings in the front (LCD) twice now. Has anyone experience the same?

I'm running the spool diff, so I was wondering if this contributed to the bearings collapsing.

Any thoughts?
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Old 09-27-2005, 07:10 AM   #7954
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And that Eric Anderson can DRIVE too!
EA running a Losi at Vegas?

I am to interested in any scoop from Vegas on the Jrxs...

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Old 09-27-2005, 11:02 AM   #7955
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Default I don't mean to complain, but

I'm new to this hobby and the JRXS is my first kit. My first car was an RTR TC4, which I have now stripped down to the bare parts and rebuilt several times (to learn and to fix crash damage).

The JRXS seems to need much more grinding and filing than I would have expected for a high end kit. For example, I don't understand why Losi does not mold the rear battery slot so that it fits correctly. Similarly, why do we need to grind away at the chassis to get clearance for the belts when the diffs are set low? Also, why do we have to grind out the front brackets that hold the steering knuckles so that the LCDs will not rub?

It seems to me that all of these things could have been taken care of with proper molding of the parts. I've been working on building this kit for a 4 days. I'm going slowly and carefully and I just can't believe how long it is taking.

The car still looks cool and I really like many of the innovative features, but Losi is making me work hard to enjoy them.

Ira
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Old 09-27-2005, 02:01 PM   #7956
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Originally Posted by iblumberg
I'm new to this hobby and the JRXS is my first kit. My first car was an RTR TC4, which I have now stripped down to the bare parts and rebuilt several times (to learn and to fix crash damage).

The JRXS seems to need much more grinding and filing than I would have expected for a high end kit. For example, I don't understand why Losi does not mold the rear battery slot so that it fits correctly. Similarly, why do we need to grind away at the chassis to get clearance for the belts when the diffs are set low? Also, why do we have to grind out the front brackets that hold the steering knuckles so that the LCDs will not rub?

It seems to me that all of these things could have been taken care of with proper molding of the parts. I've been working on building this kit for a 4 days. I'm going slowly and carefully and I just can't believe how long it is taking.

The car still looks cool and I really like many of the innovative features, but Losi is making me work hard to enjoy them.

Ira

That's why it is called a hobby!!! You do have to work and use some skill and expertise to get a good finished product, it separates the good cars from the ones just 'thrown' together.

Also it would cost a whole lotta dough to set up a 3D machining rig to do the work required, and don't even think about all the different battery sizes......

Once you have built a few high end tourers you will be able to breeze through a car like this, mine would have taken less than a day to build, and I didn't rush it.
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Old 09-27-2005, 03:04 PM   #7957
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Old 09-27-2005, 03:14 PM   #7958
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Originally Posted by iblumberg
\
The JRXS seems to need much more grinding and filing than I would have expected for a high end kit. For example, I don't understand why Losi does not mold the rear battery slot so that it fits correctly. Similarly, why do we need to grind away at the chassis to get clearance for the belts when the diffs are set low? Also, why do we have to grind out the front brackets that hold the steering knuckles so that the LCDs will not rub?

It seems to me that all of these things could have been taken care of with proper molding of the parts. I've been working on building this kit for a 4 days. I'm going slowly and carefully and I just can't believe how long it is taking.
Ira
Too bad you never had the experience of building an original RC10 gold chassis car. You would have quit before you started.
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Old 09-27-2005, 03:24 PM   #7959
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robk!!

what's up vegas pimp!

good run at IIC....sounds like you put a move on carissa to take the lead in the main. hope you didn't also put on move on her off the track also LOL
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Old 09-27-2005, 03:30 PM   #7960
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Originally Posted by UNSTABLE
That's why it is called a hobby!!! You do have to work and use some skill and expertise to get a good finished product, it separates the good cars from the ones just 'thrown' together.

Also it would cost a whole lotta dough to set up a 3D machining rig to do the work required, and don't even think about all the different battery sizes......

Once you have built a few high end tourers you will be able to breeze through a car like this, mine would have taken less than a day to build, and I didn't rush it.
I've been in this hobby for 18 years. The fun is racing, not spending time compensating for poorly designed and/or manufactured car components. Build a Corally or an X-ray. Those things go together beautifully, no grinding, filing, cutting or bending.
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Old 09-27-2005, 04:23 PM   #7961
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Originally Posted by UNSTABLE
That's why it is called a hobby!!! You do have to work and use some skill and expertise to get a good finished product, it separates the good cars from the ones just 'thrown' together.

Also it would cost a whole lotta dough to set up a 3D machining rig to do the work required, and don't even think about all the different battery sizes......

Once you have built a few high end tourers you will be able to breeze through a car like this, mine would have taken less than a day to build, and I didn't rush it.
I understand its a hobby. However, as far as I'm concerned, the skill and work applied are probably better spent in chassis set up and tuning. I don't complain about experimenting with the thousands of possible adjustments with springs, shock damping rates, camber, toe, caster, etc. That is fair game.

However, with respect to the parts fitting, lets face it, Losi had to cut out the holes in the chassis for the pulleys and the rear battery. Why would it have cost extra to make these holes actually fit the intended parts?

As for battery sizes, make it fit the standard 3300 mAh cell, then if people want larger cells, ok, file away.

For the belt clearance issue, there is no excuse. The hole is already there, just taper it or make it a tad longer. They already tapered some of the holes, no biggie for one more.

Similarly, why aren't the countersunk holes consistent? I have lots of screws on the bottom of my chassis that are not quite flush. Why are the holes in many of the top plates not quite drilled out to the right size. Why was a rear piviot block pin hole on my chassis not drilled out to the right size? Yes, I got out my drill and fixed it, but I would rather be finished and tuning the suspension already.

The car is nicely designed, but I don't understand why it is a measure of my dedication to the hobby to overcome production variances and problems.

Ira
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Old 09-27-2005, 04:27 PM   #7962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iblumberg
The JRXS seems to need much more grinding and filing than I would have expected for a high end kit. For example, I don't understand why Losi does not mold the rear battery slot so that it fits correctly. Similarly, why do we need to grind away at the chassis to get clearance for the belts when the diffs are set low? Also, why do we have to grind out the front brackets that hold the steering knuckles so that the LCDs will not rub?

It seems to me that all of these things could have been taken care of with proper molding of the parts. I've been working on building this kit for a 4 days. I'm going slowly and carefully and I just can't believe how long it is taking.

Ira
Ira - Graphite plate is not "molded" like plastic or composite. The chassis plates on these cars are cut from a flat sheet. Beveling/grinding the areas you mention would be extra machine work, taking time and money. That's why companies don't do it. And this is true for all car kits on the market (with the exception of BMI's aftermarket chassis). With regards to the grinding the JRX-S requires, I figure ONE battery slot and 2 diff slots is better than having to do SIX battery slots on another car (Tamiya, Xray, Corrally, etc). That said, it is still something that slows you down getting to the track, and that always sucks. As this is the first kit you've built, you just need to remember that graphite plate chassis take some extra prep work over a car that has a molded tub. Take your time, follow the instructions, and ask questions if you have any problems. Do this and it will all go together fine. Once you hit the track, you'll forget about all of this and just have fun driving!
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Old 09-27-2005, 05:06 PM   #7963
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good run at IIC....sounds like you put a move on carissa to take the lead in the main. hope you didn't also put on move on her off the track also LOL
Yeah I don't need my skull crushed by her boyfriend
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Old 09-27-2005, 06:12 PM   #7964
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Someone else over here running a JRX-S ..... curious
You have one in Wellington.

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Old 09-27-2005, 06:23 PM   #7965
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Originally Posted by robk
Too bad you never had the experience of building an original RC10 gold chassis car. You would have quit before you started.
LOL The 6-gear tranny from HELL!!!!!!!!! LMAO

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