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Old 08-12-2005, 06:15 PM   #7291
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www.kthobbies.com has the alum. battery trays in stock. Just got mine yesterday.

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Old 08-12-2005, 06:27 PM   #7292
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Gearing suggestion.

19t C2, CS-32 rubbers, indoor aspalt, 100x46 track dimens., 128 spur

Manual suggests for 19t 28x128, I beleive. Just wanted to know if it's in the ball park.
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Old 08-12-2005, 10:01 PM   #7293
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Thanks LOSIMANJRXS & Peter, That helped heaps. Now i just gotta find em locally

Rob
Try RCboyz on eBay. Got mine there for $.99 each plus a $3.50 shipping charge. Ordered 20 for total of $23.30.

Installation is more that just putting them on the pins. You have to dremel away some material from the pins in order to slide the bearings on. It is a careful process so you don't overdo removing material...Take a little from all around and try...Take a little and try...Take a little and try...So forth...
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Old 08-12-2005, 10:21 PM   #7294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
Gearing suggestion.

19t C2, CS-32 rubbers, indoor aspalt, 100x46 track dimens., 128 spur

Manual suggests for 19t 28x128, I beleive. Just wanted to know if it's in the ball park.
Rob--That sounds awfully low to me. Is the straight length 128? Our outdoor club tracks usually have 100 to 110 foot straights. And we normally gear around a 32-35 tooth pinion depending on the tightness of the infield and the motor. I would check with other racers at your track and just see what they are running. Good Luck!

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Old 08-12-2005, 10:31 PM   #7295
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Did you have to take off much, also do you think it is worth it, more rotating mass is more momentum but less punch right? Not that a few bearings makes a difference though... just wondering.
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Old 08-12-2005, 10:52 PM   #7296
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Hey Brant...I finally did IT!

Clipped an inside corner Tuesday night and went straight into a concrete curb at the edge of a the track. Tore off one corner of the car ripping a hinge pin block from the chassis plate. All fixed as of tonight for tomorrow's racing.

And my Farmers Insurance agent says it's not covered! So, I think i caught up to you (damage-wise) with this one...
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Old 08-12-2005, 11:04 PM   #7297
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Originally Posted by Jammin'Trey
Did you have to take off much, also do you think it is worth it, more rotating mass is more momentum but less punch right? Not that a few bearings makes a difference though... just wondering.
Using bearings in the larger slots eliminates a lot of slop in the outdrives. That alone is worth some performance. People that can carry speed throughout the track don't worry as much about rotating mass. Matter of fact, it is potentially a plus towards carrying speed.

With a 1/2" diameter x 1/2" long barrel-shaped ceramic grinding wheel on my Dremel, I went around each pin a total of 3-4 rotations pressing the wheel very lightly against the pin. Each time I did a complete rotation around the pin, I would check to see if the bearing would go on. You are trying to remove material from the entire length of each pin...Not just the end.

After I got the feel of what was needed to remove enough material from the pin, I was able to speed up the process significantly. Take your time because you don't want to take off too much.
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Old 08-13-2005, 12:05 AM   #7298
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Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Hey Brant...I finally did IT!

Clipped an inside corner Tuesday night and went straight into a concrete curb at the edge of a the track. Tore off one corner of the car ripping a hinge pin block from the chassis plate. All fixed as of tonight for tomorrow's racing.

And my Farmers Insurance agent says it's not covered! So, I think i caught up to you (damage-wise) with this one...
SWEET !!!!! Now your finally going fast enough!!! LMAO But.......My count is 1 left front arm, 3 right front arms and 1 right side outdrive!! Now Thats Speed!!!!!!! hehehehehe

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Old 08-13-2005, 05:06 AM   #7299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Rob--That sounds awfully low to me. Is the straight length 128? Our outdoor club tracks usually have 100 to 110 foot straights. And we normally gear around a 32-35 tooth pinion depending on the tightness of the infield and the motor. I would check with other racers at your track and just see what they are running. Good Luck!

Brant
I'm going out of town to race this coming weekend and I haven't ran the car yet. Just trying to find approx where I should be. 100 ft straight I beleive, with a sweeper at the end.
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Old 08-13-2005, 07:02 AM   #7300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
I'm going out of town to race this coming weekend and I haven't ran the car yet. Just trying to find approx where I should be. 100 ft straight I beleive, with a sweeper at the end.
If it were me, I would start with the 33 pinion. Thats close to a 7.00 final drive ratio and adjust it from there. Good Luck Rob!

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Old 08-13-2005, 12:16 PM   #7301
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Thanks Bro!
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Old 08-13-2005, 12:29 PM   #7302
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Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
Thanks Bro!
Joo Gottit Man! Go kick sum butt!

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Old 08-13-2005, 02:12 PM   #7303
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Can anyone post Joel Johnson's JRX-S setup? Misplaced my issue where the setup is.

Thanx in advance
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Old 08-13-2005, 03:09 PM   #7304
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This car is seriously pissing me off... Poeple say to run this car soft and when I do its undrivable and when I do my own setup witch is a hard setup the car is better ... whats wrong this man????
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Old 08-13-2005, 03:17 PM   #7305
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I guess it's the driver .. every set up is not for every driver .. I too set up my car stiff and have a better feel for the way it drives for me ... I did try softer set-up .. and found that it did transition quicker .. but then went back to a stiffer set-up made some droop adjustments and got the car to feel better for the way I drive .... as always not saying your a bad driver or the car is a bad car ... Hope you get it sorted out ... have fun at the races ,,
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