Team Losi JRXS
07-26-2005, 01:45 PM
#6871
It's the only thing we have found at Speedline to work in just about any conditions... 
07-26-2005, 04:25 PM
#6874
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Just snapped some random pics of my jrx-s.
Like the blue setup on your car.
07-26-2005, 05:41 PM
#6875
I have been running the JRXS now for quite a while. I have been having a problem with front tire wear and over steer coming out of the corner. I have tried all the setups from Losi's web site and none seem to work for me. The front tires are wearing heavy on the inside of the tire. The rear just wont stay planted coming out of the corner. Any suggestions? So far I have had to raise the roll center in the rear .100 and am running the 2deg block with 1deg hubs. Bk brackets really calmed the car down too.
07-26-2005, 05:46 PM
#6876
RC Old Man,
This may seem overly simple, but make sure that you do not have too much camber in your front end... I generally run -1 degree... I would not exceed -2 degrees. (make sure your rear end has -1 degree as well)
Check your static front toe out as well.. if it is loose coming out of the corner you might want to try a little bit more toe out... The car is sensitive to small changes to camber and toe so be careful!
This may seem overly simple, but make sure that you do not have too much camber in your front end... I generally run -1 degree... I would not exceed -2 degrees. (make sure your rear end has -1 degree as well)
Check your static front toe out as well.. if it is loose coming out of the corner you might want to try a little bit more toe out... The car is sensitive to small changes to camber and toe so be careful!
07-26-2005, 05:54 PM
#6878
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RC Old Man....Who's set up are you running now or I should say what is your whole setup now? As far as the tire wear raise your inner front camber link it might be to low and you have to much camber gain...or reduce your static camber. I experienced the same thing when I first started to run the car but I have moved the link up and its gone away. One thing that most of the guys running the car locally have noticed with the setup's off the site is that they are dumping over the front end a lot...adding a front sway bar helps this problem. If your car is dumping over in the front it might make it loose on exit.
07-26-2005, 06:10 PM
#6879
ok here's the setup.
Front
Shocks: 40wt 56 piston 12.5 spring shock in #2 on tower BK Brackets
Roll center: High 0 deg pivot
Camber link in #2 low ball stud
Diff High
Standard Ackerman
Sway bar .50
Whellbase middle
Spool
Castor 4 deg
camber +1/2
Droop 2mm above ride hight
Rear
Shocks: 35wt 56 piston 10.0 spring shock in #3 on tower BK brackets
Roll center: High +.100 2 deg pivot
Camber link in # 9-A short ball stud
Diff High
No swaybar
Wheel Base Short (tryed middle and long but short felt best)
Diff
Hubs 1 deg standard
Camber -1/2
Droop 1 mm above ride hight
I am running on Low traction surfaces with CS-27 or CS-32
Front
Shocks: 40wt 56 piston 12.5 spring shock in #2 on tower BK Brackets
Roll center: High 0 deg pivot
Camber link in #2 low ball stud
Diff High
Standard Ackerman
Sway bar .50
Whellbase middle
Spool
Castor 4 deg
camber +1/2
Droop 2mm above ride hight
Rear
Shocks: 35wt 56 piston 10.0 spring shock in #3 on tower BK brackets
Roll center: High +.100 2 deg pivot
Camber link in # 9-A short ball stud
Diff High
No swaybar
Wheel Base Short (tryed middle and long but short felt best)
Diff
Hubs 1 deg standard
Camber -1/2
Droop 1 mm above ride hight
I am running on Low traction surfaces with CS-27 or CS-32
07-26-2005, 06:14 PM
#6880
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
I have been running the JRXS now for quite a while. I have been having a problem with front tire wear and over steer coming out of the corner. I have tried all the setups from Losi's web site and none seem to work for me. The front tires are wearing heavy on the inside of the tire. The rear just wont stay planted coming out of the corner. Any suggestions? So far I have had to raise the roll center in the rear .100 and am running the 2deg block with 1deg hubs. Bk brackets really calmed the car down too.
Old Man,
After I typed all of this I saw you were running rubber tires so I cannot be of much help. But I figured I would leave this on here for more info for the foam guys. The same will apply for the front roll center and rubber tires, I would run it high for that car.
I assume you are talking about foam tires. If you are here are my thoughts.
Raising the rear roll center will probably make your problem worse as far as having the car be loose. Having the rear higher will casue the car to pivot more off the front end and not allow the rear of the car to squat. In my opinion you should have the rear full low and start raising the front .035 at a time. This will cause the rear of the car to squat more and give more rear traction but still have rotation. What works for me is on club race days i use 1 deg front camber and 2 deg rear camber. If I go less in the rear it will be loose. You can also try 20lbs rear springs and that will make the back of the car roll more and not just break loose. For big traction races I run 1-1.5 in the rear. Also I am not sure where your rear camber link is but if you run full low and in on the tower and the outside hole on the hub the will give you more camber gain than having the link higher on the tower. You can also try an AE long neck ball stud on the hub and that will give it more camber gain. I never tried the inner position on the hub but in theory you will have the most camber gain in that location. Here is a good setup to try that we have been running that seems to work really well. http://www.parmapse.com/jrx.jpg One thing that is incorrect on the setup is the rear toe in block is supposed to be +1 not -1. 0 hubs and 2 deg block will be fine. Post what you think of the setup after you try it.
07-26-2005, 06:21 PM
#6881
Bring it up here....
Originally Posted by RC Old Man
I was running -1 all around and 0 deg toe in the front. The best wear on the front tires came by running +.5 camber in the front and -.5 in the rear.
07-26-2005, 06:56 PM
#6883
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Yup, it was an open tire race at that time, Lemieux was the fast local guy but he had not done a lot of tire testing so all the teams bought everything they thought might work. AE ands Losi spent a lot more than us.
Spec tires have really leveled the playing field. Could you imagine going to the Nats in October and having to bring Sorex 32, 36 and 40R's, Take Off 27's, RP30, 36 and 40's, Yokomo 138 and 139G's, Powers PJ30 and 35's. Then inserts..thick, thin, outside air gap, inside air gap. Then rims...Flexy nylon, stiff ABS, tall inner ribs, low inner rims, cut out the inner ribs
No thanks!
They haven't announced the spec tire for the Nats yet but its one you are all familiar with
Spec tires have really leveled the playing field. Could you imagine going to the Nats in October and having to bring Sorex 32, 36 and 40R's, Take Off 27's, RP30, 36 and 40's, Yokomo 138 and 139G's, Powers PJ30 and 35's. Then inserts..thick, thin, outside air gap, inside air gap. Then rims...Flexy nylon, stiff ABS, tall inner ribs, low inner rims, cut out the inner ribs
No thanks!
They haven't announced the spec tire for the Nats yet but its one you are all familiar with
God bless handout tires. I am so glad for this. This helps all of us, the average joe racer all the way to the pro driver. At the recent ROAR Offroad Nats in Enfield, CT we had a manufacturers agreement on spec tires and it worked out great for everyone.
07-26-2005, 06:57 PM
#6884
Originally Posted by automator
I remember reading somewhere I think, that most of the racers at the Reedy Race(?) were specifically using Tamiya rims. How are these different from other rims? How about Losi rims that come in the kit?
Yes they did use at the Reedy Race of Asia. The tamiya rim offers the most airgap of all the rims on the market.
07-26-2005, 09:06 PM
#6885
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Just snapped some random pics of my jrx-s.
Btw, what kinda rear blue hexes are those? trinity? Thanks