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Old 06-27-2005, 05:00 PM   #6286
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Btw, if any of you have the Tamiya turnbuckle wrenches they will work on the JRX-S.
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Old 06-27-2005, 05:05 PM   #6287
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I'll buy that wrench buddy!!
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Old 06-27-2005, 05:22 PM   #6288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddyB
I work in a machine shop and am going to make some turnbuckle wrenches for the JRXS since it is a smaller size wrench and you have to use that skinny little thing. Im just wondering if i make them, will anyone be interested in buying one, it will look similar to the Lunsford wrench. Prolly sell for 5 bucks plus shipping. Let me know...
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Buddy--back in the day I had a AE Dual Sport and the Lunsford turnbucle kit came with a wrench just like their regular wrench but it had the sides milled down to where it was narrow in the center. I still have it but it is a lil too wide still. Just a thought to maybe help you in the process. BTW--I want a red one if you can anodize.

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Old 06-27-2005, 06:02 PM   #6289
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Default Turnbuckle Wrench

I use my Lunsford Wrench that came with the turnbuckle kit for my Yokomo MR4TC. Works perfect. Milled down in the center like POOKYT said.

Later,
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:09 PM   #6290
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Bigdog, I hear ya, no sweat. Most racers won't need to know all the technical terms and exactly how or why they work, it is much easier to just run a set up from someone with the time for testing.

I will say that SAI and castor are seperate though, since for example, moving the king pins inboard(only one or the other) would effect SAI, but castor would be the same.


Your right about the carpet vs asphalt, but the same principals apply, regardless of the surface. The reason the castor can be the same is because other things are done to lessen the chassis roll on the higher traction surface. Things like anti dive, stiffer springs and oil, anti-sway bars etc. This is why off-road cars have 25-30 degrees of total castor, but on road cars have 0-6 usually, since there is less chassis roll in on road cars. Castor is still used to help keep the tire in the best contact with the surface, but less chassis roll equals less castor(less SAI needed).

You probably know this stuff, but it may help others understand how it works by posting it?

After 25 years in the auto industry and 20 years of racing(toy cars and fullscale) i've been a little to into all the whys and why nots for a while, but I still am missing the time to test for myself lately, LOL.......Jim
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:13 PM   #6291
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(I use my Lunsford Wrench that came with the turnbuckle kit for my Yokomo MR4TC. Works perfect. Milled down in the center like POOKYT said.)

Same here. Fits perfect
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:53 PM   #6292
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Hello,

I had some problems with the turnbuckes being a bit too short in the rear or maybe the ballcups thread or whatever is too used.

I also had some problems with the ballcups popping off after just a slight hit.

So I was wondering what turnbuckles/ballcups are you guys using and where can I find them?

Thanks!
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:03 PM   #6293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Billanti
Perhaps longer than the lunsford one- kinda like the trinity one?


LMK!!

Keith

Its not all about the length of your tool Keith.
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:12 PM   #6294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3blue
Hello,

I had some problems with the turnbuckes being a bit too short in the rear or maybe the ballcups thread or whatever is too used.

I also had some problems with the ballcups popping off after just a slight hit.

So I was wondering what turnbuckles/ballcups are you guys using and where can I find them?

Thanks!
I am still using the stock equipment. havent had any problems yet. try buying a new set of the stock losi ball cups and make sure that all the turnbuckles are in the correct locations. this one almost has to be operator error so just replace them and take your time with installation. hope this helps.
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:34 PM   #6295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Its not all about the length of your tool Keith.
Your not right in the head Ray!!!! LOL

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Old 06-27-2005, 08:42 PM   #6296
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Quote:
I had some problems with the turnbuckes being a bit too short in the rear or maybe the ballcups thread or whatever is too used.

I also had some problems with the ballcups popping off after just a slight hit.

So I was wondering what turnbuckles/ballcups are you guys using and where can I find them?
So everybody is using the stock ones (turnbuckles and ballcups)? Nobody is using other turnbuckes/ballcups.

Like I said, I'm just having problems in the rear, when I try to adjust negative camber.

Can somebody help me plz?
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:50 PM   #6297
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I dont do anodizing, they will have a machined finish, nothing special....
-Buddy
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:50 PM   #6298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3blue
So everybody is using the stock ones (turnbuckles and ballcups)? Nobody is using other turnbuckes/ballcups. Like I said, I'm just having problems in the rear, when I try to adjust negative camber. Can somebody help me plz?
I'm using the stock ones without any issues, but my rear camber link is short because it's in the middle top hole on the tower and the inner hole on the hub.

What aftermarket hex adaptors are ya'll using? I read the dynamite hex adaptors need to be drilled a bit. Are there any which bolt-on without modification? Just tired of pounding the stock hex adaptors out of the rims!
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:54 PM   #6299
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All the stock ballcups have been staying on my car. SOme got sloppy real fast (front) so I put teflon tape between the ball and cup. I also used teflon tape on the axles and pins to keep the plastic hexes on-works Great.

Now-in the back-you might be popping the ball-cup off if your long on hub-and you havent shaved off the inside of hub for clearance. YOU also might need to make the ballcups a tad shorter to run short on hub and middle or outer holes on tower.

I have been slowly eplacing all my ballcups with the ones that come in the sway bar kit. Very tight fit on the ball and no clearnace issues!!
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:56 PM   #6300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe
What aftermarket hex adaptors are ya'll using? I read the dynamite hex adaptors need to be drilled a bit. Are there any which bolt-on without modification? Just tired of pounding the stock hex adaptors out of the rims!
Slightly sand the flat surfaces of your hexes.
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