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Old 06-15-2005, 11:04 AM   #6016
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Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
Ya, I got two sets of brackets, from two suppliers...just in case, thanks guys!
BRACKETS!!!???? I thought you were determined to get your car to work without them!? Remember....ahhahaha

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Old 06-15-2005, 05:38 PM   #6017
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I just ordered my JRX-S, and it will be arriving soon. I was looking at pinion gears for it and was wondering what brand the pros use. Any suggestions would help. Thanks!
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Old 06-15-2005, 06:13 PM   #6018
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Originally Posted by airbear87123
I just ordered my JRX-S, and it will be arriving soon. I was looking at pinion gears for it and was wondering what brand the pros use. Any suggestions would help. Thanks!

I use PRS...they are dialed!
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Old 06-15-2005, 06:33 PM   #6019
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Hey guys,

I'm a recent owner of the JRX-S and I have a few questions.

I know how to measure droop with the ride height gauge, but do you measure the down-travel with the shocks removed? Also, how do you measure the uptravel?

I've noticed on some of the set-up sheets that multiple o-rings are sometimes used inside the shock cap.....what effect does this have on damping?

I would appreciate any info anyone could provide.

Thanks,

Mike
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Old 06-15-2005, 06:47 PM   #6020
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Originally Posted by T. Hodge
I use PRS...they are dialed!

Todd, speaking of pinions. What pinion and spur combo did you use at the carpet nats for 19t, or maybe total rollout would be better.
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Old 06-15-2005, 10:05 PM   #6021
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I do roll out in inches and run around a 1.15 roll out in 19 turn.

I think at the Nats they were running a 128/39 or 40 with pretty small tires.
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Old 06-15-2005, 10:57 PM   #6022
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Hey guys, I am having trouble setting up my car. When I set the chassis on the table, it lies flat. I have noticed however that when lifting the car in the front and rear that one tire comes up before the other. My droop settings are equal as well as my shock lengths. Any ideas on how I can correct this? I have been working for two hours trying to figure this out Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 06-15-2005, 11:03 PM   #6023
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Originally Posted by Intelligentsia
Hey guys, I am having trouble setting up my car. When I set the chassis on the table, it lies flat. I have noticed however that when lifting the car in the front and rear that one tire comes up before the other. My droop settings are equal as well as my shock lengths. Any ideas on how I can correct this? I have been working for two hours trying to figure this out Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
Have you put it on a tweak station? Just because everything is even usually the weight will still be a little off side to side.

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Old 06-15-2005, 11:10 PM   #6024
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Unfortunately I do not have a tweak station. Is that pretty much the only way to tell?

I knew that something was tweaked because when I took the car for a drive under braking the car would want to spin out.
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Old 06-15-2005, 11:16 PM   #6025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intelligentsia
Unfortunately I do not have a tweak station. Is that pretty much the only way to tell?

I knew that something was tweaked because when I took the car for a drive under braking the car would want to spin out.
You can also set the car on the edge of a table and with an X-acto knife in the center front of the chassis pick up the car and see which tire picks up first. Take a little pressure off of the heavy side and put a lil on the light side untill they both lift off equally. Then turn the car around and do the same from the rear. This will get you close.

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Old 06-15-2005, 11:21 PM   #6026
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pookyt ygpm
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Old 06-15-2005, 11:28 PM   #6027
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Ping-Pong Back to Ya!!

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Old 06-15-2005, 11:31 PM   #6028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubble-m
Hey guys,

I'm a recent owner of the JRX-S and I have a few questions.

I know how to measure droop with the ride height gauge, but do you measure the down-travel with the shocks removed? Also, how do you measure the uptravel?

I've noticed on some of the set-up sheets that multiple o-rings are sometimes used inside the shock cap.....what effect does this have on damping?

I would appreciate any info anyone could provide.

Thanks,

Mike
Most of the set up sheets show the droop setting at Xmm over ride height. Here is an example:
Set ride to 5mm in front. Holding down the tires lift up on the shock tower and measure the distance from your pitboard to the chassis. This is your uptravel. If you want 2mm up travel set the droop screws where the chassis will not lift higher than 7mm. Measure with ride height guage.

Ride height is 5mm and the maximum it can raise is 7mm. That equates to 2mm above ride height.

Here is an explanantion from the Losi site.

Front Droop: Droop is the amount of down-travel that the suspension has. It is adjusted with the set screw from the top of the arm. Droop is easily measured by removing the front tires and setting the chassis on the droop gauge (included) so that the gauge extends across the chassis from the center, out to the arm with the graduated notches to one side. Slide the gauge inward using the set screw boss on the bottom of the spindle carrier as a reference. The set screw boss should just clear the 3mm (minimum) step on the droop gauge. Repeat this for the other side, making sure that both sides are the same. With standard 2.5 tall tires you will want to maintain between 3-5mm of droop. Less droop makes the chassis react quicker but is not as good on bumpy tracks. More droop reduces steering into a turn and slows down the overall reaction of the chassis as well as making the chassis more stable on bumpy surfaces.

Up-travel Limiters: The up-travel of the shocks can be adjusted via the setscrew in the sway bar mount/up-travel stop (attached to each of the arms). With the chassis pushed down onto a flat surface (suspension compressed), pull up on the front or rear tires. This is the up-travel of the car. More up-travel is recommended for bumpy surfaces or track layouts that use berm edging or track dots. This will allow the suspension to work over those objects. Testing has shown that 3-5mm of tire up-travel for this type of track conditions is best. For smooth track layouts that are high bite, testing showed that limiting the up-travel helps the car react faster and improves corner speed.
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Old 06-15-2005, 11:32 PM   #6029
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I just ordered the PRS adaptor. Anyone want a PRS 128t 64p spur. I have no idea why PRS included the same spur that comes with the car

PRS 128t 64p spur for sale....$5 shipped, never used

Crap, now I'm fustrated. I have batteries, a setup and now a spur adaptor for my new car and its still another week until I even recieve the kit. This sucks...LOL Someone, buy my damn XRay
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Old 06-15-2005, 11:35 PM   #6030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackKat
I just ordered the PRS adaptor. Anyone want a PRS 128t 64p spur. I have no idea why PRS included the same spur that comes with the car

PRS 128t 64p spur for sale....$5 shipped, never used

Crap, now I'm fustrated. I have batteries, a setup and now a spur adaptor for my new car and its still another week until I even recieve the kit. This sucks...LOL Someone, buy my damn XRay
It's the same size as what comes with the car, but much different. When using the PRS adapter you will not be able to use the spur that comes in the kit. Keep that 128 from PRS. You will need it.
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