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Old 06-06-2005, 01:53 PM   #5791
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Originally Posted by Toma2525
I just got around to building my JRXS. Pretty excited. Is it really necessary to file down the battery hole in the chassis? I was going to leave it alone but decided to check here first. WIll the batteries not fit? I am running 3300 from promatch. Thanks everyone.
As Buddy and Steve stated. It is a must do. You need to get that cell down in the chassis a little and the edges of the graphite will cut into your batteries if not filed some...
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:55 PM   #5792
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Originally Posted by Evicerator
You need to file the edges of that one slot for proper battery fit.
Hey Stevie Weiss.... Nice job at Reedy brutha.... Your as_ coming to Cleveland this year?
L8r bro..
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Old 06-06-2005, 02:16 PM   #5793
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Thanks man! Wish I could have finished better...but oh well...luck wasn't on my side

Dunno yet about Cleveland... I would hope so...
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Old 06-06-2005, 03:18 PM   #5794
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Just an FYI guys-I bought and just tried to install the red anodized Dynamite brand wheel hexes. The pin is larger in diameter than the hole so they are insanley hard to get on. LIke a stubborn idiot I pressed one in anyways. Umm-it aint going all the way in and it aint coming out. I will try and press the pin out tomorrow at the race shop and then use a numbered drill bit to open the holes up a tick in the hexes.

Ray
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Old 06-06-2005, 04:46 PM   #5795
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Originally Posted by rayhuang
The pin is larger in diameter than the hole so they are insanley hard to get on.
OUCH!!
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Old 06-06-2005, 04:57 PM   #5796
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just wanted to shout out to Losi drivers Paul Ciccarello and RBlove. Got a chance to practice with them over the weekend. Chicky has a great setup for stock. Thanks for the help guys
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Old 06-06-2005, 04:59 PM   #5797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Just an FYI guys-I bought and just tried to install the red anodized Dynamite brand wheel hexes. The pin is larger in diameter than the hole so they are insanley hard to get on. LIke a stubborn idiot I pressed one in anyways. Umm-it aint going all the way in and it aint coming out. I will try and press the pin out tomorrow at the race shop and then use a numbered drill bit to open the holes up a tick in the hexes.

Ray
Ray--On mine I had a couple of the holes in the hubs that were tight and I had to gently scrape out the anodizing to get the pin in free. I tested the pins in the axels and they were all free but in a couple of sides of the hexs were my problems. I also got my first one hung up and I used an .050 tool to gently tap it back out. LOL By gently I mean I held the wrench and hit it with a small hammer a couple times! OH BTW on my hexs I also had to sand the back side with 120 grit to get the hole in the axel and hub to line up! Don't forget to check that out. Good Luck

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Old 06-06-2005, 05:07 PM   #5798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POOKYT
Ray--On mine I had a couple of the holes in the hubs that were tight and I had to gently scrape out the anodizing to get the pin in free. I tested the pins in the axels and they were all free but in a couple of sides of the hexs were my problems. I also got my first one hung up and I used an .050 tool to gently tap it back out. LOL By gently I mean I held the wrench and hit it with a small hammer a couple times! OH BTW on my hexs I also had to sand the back side with 120 grit to get the hole in the axel and hub to line up! Don't forget to check that out. Good Luck

Brant
Yup-I have experienced all the same issues Brant-thanks for the other heads-ups. Handfitting is OK on plastic parts-but I hate to do it to aluminum. I already buggered up the pretty red anodizing. NOT my day for RC!! My new/used lathe just arrived todayin the mail . Yup-you guessed it-it cuts a taper in the comm-bigtime too.I put a .282 comm in-measure dit before cutting. When I was done it was still 0.0282 by the stacks and 0.281 at the end. I could see it cutting a taper because i put sharpie in the comm. NOt my day. I'll be quiet now.
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Old 06-06-2005, 05:28 PM   #5799
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GEEEZ Ray!! Talk about your bad Mondays!!! The good news about sanding the hexs is that once on the car you cannot see the bare aluminum. UHH....Uh.....Your alive and kicki'n!! Just try'n to stay on the bright side.

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Old 06-06-2005, 06:02 PM   #5800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk
just wanted to shout out to Losi drivers Paul Ciccarello and RBlove. Got a chance to practice with them over the weekend. Chicky has a great setup for stock. Thanks for the help guys
Nice seeing ya Rob. We'll have to get them to open the joint up again.. Glad you've got the car working. Chicky definitely has the set up dialed for the Gate. I am going to give it a try in Cincy this weekend....

Take care and smack Kevin Kane for me........
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Old 06-06-2005, 06:41 PM   #5801
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I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed that the front belt comes very close to touching the servo mount on that side and also the screws that hold that side in? Or have I done something wrong? Also when wiring up the servo to the receiver, my servo lead comes close to the front belt as well, I have wired the servo as per Todd's guide on the losi page, but it only gives an aerial view of the wiring layout. Just wondering if anyone has had any issues with this or am I just being too paranoid about my belts rubbing or touching stuff?
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Old 06-06-2005, 06:53 PM   #5802
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Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375
I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed that the front belt comes very close to touching the servo mount on that side and also the screws that hold that side in? Or have I done something wrong? Also when wiring up the servo to the receiver, my servo lead comes close to the front belt as well, I have wired the servo as per Todd's guide on the losi page, but it only gives an aerial view of the wiring layout. Just wondering if anyone has had any issues with this or am I just being too paranoid about my belts rubbing or touching stuff?

Thats normal. I have put a flat spot n my washer and also sanded down my servo mount just a bit by the front belt. As for the servo leads being close to the pulley-that too is a bit scary, but you can put them under a little tension with some creativity and they wont touch the pulleys.

Ray
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Old 06-06-2005, 06:55 PM   #5803
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Default belt clearance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog3375
I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed that the front belt comes very close to touching the servo mount on that side and also the screws that hold that side in? Or have I done something wrong? Also when wiring up the servo to the receiver, my servo lead comes close to the front belt as well, I have wired the servo as per Todd's guide on the losi page, but it only gives an aerial view of the wiring layout. Just wondering if anyone has had any issues with this or am I just being too paranoid about my belts rubbing or touching stuff?
Sounds normal to me. The clearances on this car are VERY tight everywhere. When you get the batts and motor in and you will find things are just as tight if not tighter. If you have the kit assembled to spec you shouldn't have any problems at all. Good luck!
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Old 06-06-2005, 06:55 PM   #5804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Thats normal. I have put a flat spot n my washer and also sanded down my servo mount just a bit by the front belt. As for the servo leads being close to the pulley-that too is a bit scary, but you can put them under a little tension with some creativity and they wont touch the pulleys.

Ray
Thanks for your quick reply Rayhuang. GOod to see that I am not seeing things or being too paranoid.
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Old 06-06-2005, 06:59 PM   #5805
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Just a question to Todd Hodge or any other losi rep/team driver, are losi going to make available as a separate part the ball ends that come with the sway bar kits? (for camber links - so I can run Todd's setu without having to grind away the standard ballcups/ends)

If so, when and what is the part number?

Or, if anyone has any other products that are similiar and fit, I am open to suggestions.

Thanks.
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