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Old 05-01-2005, 09:16 PM   #4786
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Originally posted by rayhuang
KE-sweet!! I'll hit ya up tomorrow to talk some set-up. I get to practice Tuesday night-I am gonna try and bum a rear sway bar off of Chicky or Bean so I can try that.

Ray
We ran the rear links more vertical (stiffer) the rest of the set up stayed the same except all the way short wheel base, reminded me of the RDX. Eli and Rob got their cars rollin real good too...
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:41 PM   #4787
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Originally posted by rayhuang
Hey Kev,

How did TWoH go? Good layout? JRXS run well?

Ray
Car were really good today. Eli, Kevin and I all had a little different set up...

My car was REALLLLLLLLY good in the main. Stiffened up the rear sway bar, raised rear diff, and heavier rear shock oil. Shock oil needed to be changed back to 40 or 45 though......

Also had the mad rip from DC Motorsports........ Stupid horse power..................................

Let me know a good Tuesday to come up. I am going to take a vacation day and come on up.......... I will bring that Wannabee character too.......
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:42 PM   #4788
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Gone to BED!!!
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:24 PM   #4789
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Quote:
Originally posted by Greg Sharpe
My latest outing with the car proved to be the fastest yet. With just 30lb front springs and the parts included with the kit, there is plenty of off-power steering but not quite enough chassis stability. The swaybars are a must!

So who shows up to race a JRXS at my local track .... none other than Joel Johnson! His setup is weird, but it has more off-power steering than mine and is totally tossable in traffic. I'll make a setup sheet from my notes and post asap.

Finally broke the car .... horrorific crash, left the track, collided with a concrete wall about 3 feet off the ground, hit the point on the corner of the slab! Of all things to break, a ball cup. Not the ball stud, just one ball cup. Silly! Also railed a car on the straightaway, text book T-bone, broke a Takeoff CS-27 rim and misaligned one turnbuckle. No other damage. The FK-05 that got the bone lost the motor, bent all to hell! Friend of mine too, I felt bad.
You mind if i add this to the list of setups? Or if yoiu can would you add this setup to the list?
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Old 05-02-2005, 05:03 AM   #4790
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Come up anytime Rob and Wannabee, we could use some extra help
-Buddy
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Old 05-02-2005, 08:36 AM   #4791
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Originally posted by Darkseid
But I have to tell anyone who hasn't tried it, nothing beats those laydown Corally connectors. Its easy as pie to get the pack in and out and you don't have to worry about keeping a hot iron (helpful for windy days at the track).

Heres a look at how my wiring with them ended up.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTJ26&P=7
i was thinking of getting these and soldering them to a bent back battery bar. or do the corally plugs already have a bar attached?
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Old 05-02-2005, 08:50 AM   #4792
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Yes, this is a great way of connecting your battery. I used this method yesterday in modified with NO problems. You do need to use a battery bar and bend it. Place the barrel or tube in between the batteries as close as possible. It comes close to the upper brace, but will not hit if done properly. Good luck and any other questions....just ask.
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Old 05-02-2005, 08:54 AM   #4793
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Quote:
Originally posted by karlo511
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTJ26&P=7
i was thinking of getting these and soldering them to a bent back battery bar. or do the corally plugs already have a bar attached?
No, the Corally plugs don't already have the bars attached. In fact, the term "Corally plugs" is just a general term for all tube style connectors because Corally invented them....kinda like all copiers get called Xerox machines in general conversation.

Those in your link should work just fine. Just remember one thing, becareful with switching brands. For example: the Integy tubes and plugs are larger than the Orion tubes, so if you try to mix them (as I did once) your going to end up with really tight fit for the male Integy plug in the Orion tube....

So once you start using a brand, its best to stick with that one brand.

Good luck.
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Old 05-02-2005, 08:57 AM   #4794
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Something else to watch out for: Sunday I was installing a pack and the bars were off a bit and both the POS. and NEG. were touching the upper deck, and well CF is conductive so I dead shorted a fully charged pack for a couple seconds until I noticed the SMELL!!! I was in a hurry!!LOL

KE
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Old 05-02-2005, 09:01 AM   #4795
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Quote:
Originally posted by wannabee
Something else to watch out for: Sunday I was installing a pack and the bars were off a bit and both the POS. and NEG. were touching the upper deck, and well CF is conductive so I dead shorted a fully charged pack for a couple seconds until I noticed the SMELL!!! I was in a hurry!!LOL

KE
Yup-I did that too. I am starting to think its time to move to Corally style plugs now. Solves everything!!
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Old 05-02-2005, 09:03 AM   #4796
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Yup-I did that too. I am starting to think its time to move to Corally style plugs now. Solves everything!!
Yep me too, that reason and the threat of melting off a belt!
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Old 05-02-2005, 09:05 AM   #4797
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cool, thanks guys.
wannabee: i had some extra battery insulation tape from my
xxx-s and put it underneath the upper deck and cut out the deck holes so the tape would just cover the exposed CF. i'm thinking that should prevent any shorts!
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Old 05-02-2005, 09:10 AM   #4798
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Doing the laydown system really does solve all the concerns that you guys have.

-They get now where near the upper deck with the battery foam in place.

-Its so quick and easy without the fear of melting belts.


Most people look at it like this "Do I really want to change ALL my packs" (some people have A LOT of packs ) But believe me, that first pack will take a little thought...

-where to bend the bar
-how to get the tube to go on easier
-yada yada yada

But after that first pack, the rest go together like butter. It becomes second nature and you'll be done before you know it.
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Old 05-02-2005, 09:22 AM   #4799
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
Most people look at it like this "Do I really want to change ALL my packs" (some people have A LOT of packs ) But believe me, that first pack will take a little thought...

-where to bend the bar
-how to get the tube to go on easier
-yada yada yada

But after that first pack, the rest go together like butter. It becomes second nature and you'll be done before you know it.
Yup-but after I rebent 16 battery bars on 8 batteries and had to redo half of them again-it hardly seems a hassle now to redo plug style.
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Old 05-02-2005, 09:34 AM   #4800
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A couple of tips for those making the switch...

-Whatever bars you plan on using for this, lay them down on the cells and see excactly where you want to bend them. Then mark them with a marker. That way you know where to bend them...

*Note* Don't try to bend them 50/50, as the tube doesn't need to sit completely on the bar. It just needs the first half or 2/3 of the tube or so to have a solid solder joint. A 30/70 bend is what you'll most likely get if you use name brand battery bars, or 40/60 at most with a long, flat, generic battery bar.

-I found this easiest to pull off with generic bars. Why??? Cause quality bars have bends already in them for proper pack fit with the + and -. The generic bars are usually flat end to end, which in turn allows you to bend them where ever you want. And if you can bend them where ever you want, its easier to get more mounting surface for the tube while still leaving plenty to make contact with the + or - on the cell.

-Use your rotary tool to grind away the gold plating on the tube (just where your solder will go) so that you can tin it better. Otherwise, the solder just 'rolls' right off.
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