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Old 04-30-2005, 09:21 PM   #4741
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Tag
I was at a wedding/funeral.
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Old 04-30-2005, 10:55 PM   #4742
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
So...you had an FK on order a year ago...but never ran one...and you use that as a basis to recommend the JRX-S over the FK05?
I hadn't run a JRX-S either. If X-Ray hadn't had problem just shipping the car into the country I would probably have one. The car was on the market and kits were available but apparently they were having distribution issues and it was on back order for 3 months before I decided I didn't want to have to worry about not getting parts in the future as well as the cost (that was before they built their U.S. headquarters).

It was more of a statement of my experience and choice rather than a recommendation. A reliable recommendation would need to come from a person that has run both cars at the location of the person that wants to buy the car.
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Old 04-30-2005, 11:25 PM   #4743
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Default Re: Battery Bars

Quote:
Originally posted by Bink
What are the best battery bars for maximum chassis clearance? The ones in the Losi "Todd's Trick Tips" website look much flatter than the bars I currently have on my packsİ I am concerned about the bars touching the chassis during insertionİ Has this caused any issues for anyone else?
I use Orion battery "Bonez" on all my packs(33s and 37s) and have no problems getting them through the chassis opening. Their design also allows for very good solder joints.
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Old 05-01-2005, 12:14 AM   #4744
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Default LVD'S

Has anybody noticed a hitch in the LVD? I have one that is smooth when it rotates and one that has a hitch in it. I have been looking at it and twisting it and have taken it apart and there is no bure's or any debris inside. Any idea's? If you haven't I noticed when slowly spinning the drivetrain with the steering at almost full throw that the wheel would lock up. All you should check, let get a solution if it is a problem.

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Old 05-01-2005, 12:29 AM   #4745
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you may have to Grind away some material on the Caster block/C hub.
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:31 AM   #4746
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im going to try corally conectors today. yesterday i had some problems with getting the battery in. but any way off to testing part 2.
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:59 AM   #4747
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Tony: I noticed that after all our battery connector discussions here before the car came out, a lot of guys ended up just hardwirinig anyway because there is so much room to get it done.

But I have to tell anyone who hasn't tried it, nothing beats those laydown Corally connectors. Its easy as pie to get the pack in and out and you don't have to worry about keeping a hot iron (helpful for windy days at the track).

Heres a look at how my wiring with them ended up.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg corally plugs.jpg (91.0 KB, 286 views)
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:10 AM   #4748
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i was just going to solder the conecter right to the battery not have a bar there would that work to?
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:12 AM   #4749
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i also noticed that your not running the stand offs why is this?
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:32 AM   #4750
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Not running the standoffs is an option for racing on uneven surfaces where you want the chassis to have some flex.
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Old 05-01-2005, 09:56 AM   #4751
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tony Szep
i also noticed that your not running the stand offs why is this?
I'm not sure if soldering them right to the cells would work. I've tried to fit an old 1700 pack in with the tubes in the regular position and couldn't get enough belt clearance.

As for the standoffs, like JRX-S Bill said, its a tuning option. I do 98% of my racing on asphalt parking lots which don't require the ultra stiff set up that carpet or permanent asphalt tracks might.
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:15 AM   #4752
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Got my test race in at Speedworld yesterday with Matt Francis providing a lot of support to all the new JRX-S owners. Most of us JRX-S newbies being in Expert Stock.

Other than the basic kit setup, I had 17.5# springs at the rear, 60/40 oil in the stocks and one o-ring in each of the shock bladders. Matt agreed with the positive potential for all of these changes.

Got a few things to pass on...

#1) I had originally set the up-travel limiters to 5mm front and rear. Matt backed them off so they weren't functioning in the rear and to something like 8mm in the front.

#2) Matt thought the suspension was tweaked. So he followed what I normally do on my 1/12th scale car to set tweak. Said that he never used balance beam as I had.

#3) Matt set the toe to 1 degree of toe out for more steering.

#4) Using an Airtronics 94357 servo with the kit steering arm I was not able to get lock-to-lock steering. No adjustments with my new Helios radio would achieve this either. Therefore, I installed a slightly longer aluminum arm to achieve lock-to-lock and adjusted it downward from there.

#5) The barriers at Speedworld are pretty unforgiving. I had my front outside rod ends pop off 3 different times after minor touches of the barriers. We found that the 4 degree spindle carriers were making contact with the underside of the front camber tierods. Just filed away a bit of the bottom of the outside rod ends to create some clearance. No problem with the rears.

Matt asked me to post a another picture of my Corally plug setup on my battery packs; but, I see that a previous post shows the essence of that. I am loving that!

That's it.

Bill
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:44 AM   #4753
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
Got my test race in at Speedworld yesterday with Matt Francis providing a lot of support to all the new JRX-S owners. Most of us JRX-S newbies being in Expert Stock.

Other than the basic kit setup, I had 17.5# springs at the rear, 60/40 oil in the stocks and one o-ring in each of the shock bladders. Matt agreed with the positive potential for all of these changes.

Got a few things to pass on...

#1) I had originally set the up-travel limiters to 5mm front and rear. Matt backed them off so they weren't functioning in the rear and to something like 8mm in the front.

#2) Matt thought the suspension was tweaked. So he followed what I normally do on my 1/12th scale car to set tweak. Said that he never used balance beam as I had.

#3) Matt set the toe to 1 degree of toe out for more steering.

#4) Using an Airtronics 94357 servo with the kit steering arm I was not able to get lock-to-lock steering. No adjustments with my new Helios radio would achieve this either. Therefore, I installed a slightly longer aluminum arm to achieve lock-to-lock and adjusted it downward from there.

#5) The barriers at Speedworld are pretty unforgiving. I had my front outside rod ends pop off 3 different times after minor touches of the barriers. We found that the 4 degree spindle carriers were making contact with the underside of the front camber tierods. Just filed away a bit of the bottom of the outside rod ends to create some clearance. No problem with the rears.

Matt asked me to post a another picture of my Corally plug setup on my battery packs; but, I see that a previous post shows the essence of that. I am loving that!

That's it.

Bill
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:55 AM   #4754
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Quote:
Originally posted by STLNLST
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Ah, too much going on yesterday...And many thanks to STNLST for his help with my Br00d motors.
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:04 AM   #4755
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
Ah, too much going on yesterday...And many thanks to STNLST for his help with my Br00d motors.
No problem....gotta rep my sponsor. My Br00d 19 turn was pretty awesome. I had fast lap for a little while yesterday. It took Jason B. a while to go 13.9 after we were both doing 14.0 It's back to mod for next weekend though. Where are you racing at next weekend? I'm staying close to home because I have some family matters to attend Sat evening.
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