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Old 04-25-2005, 08:04 PM   #4411
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Quote:
Originally posted by 403forbidden
well that sux!

No extra shrink wrap results in a messy job if you want to reassemble your cells at a later point! IF the cells are CA'd together, then it will pull apart the lone shrinkwrap when it time to disassemble. There goes our precious battery spec labels!

Plus using CA on battery cells is just nasty.

And everyone knows that soldered battery bars should not be the only thing holding a pack together!
What is wrong with not gluing your cells? I never glue my cells. If you can solder your Battery bars correctly you will break the bars before your solder joint.....I have had Drag cars hit the wall and the cells will streach out, the bars will break but never at the solder....With a pack in the JRXS, there is no need to glue your cells. The pack is not used for offroad, The cells are in an enclosed compartment, so they should never get loose.......

If you leave your car upside down over night with the battery in the tray of the car, it will make the foam forum around the cells.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:24 PM   #4412
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I have seperate packs for onroad and offroad, and my practice packs serve double duty. As its been said, you really don't need to glue the cells for the jrxs since the battery compartment holds them in tight. I was worried about that at first, but I really don't see how you could mess up a pack running this thing. I used tape on my xxx-s and there was the chance that the cells might shift a little or something, but with the new car they are in there tight.
I'm looking forward to getting this thing back on the track. Luckily by then The Law and BK will be back from Germany and hopefully at the track. I'll see about getting a few pointers from them on setup.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:36 PM   #4413
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The one SMC3600 pack I have now (with sleeves and Shoe Goo) fits easily into the car. But, you guys are talking me into building a couple 3600 battery packs with no glue or sleeves.

The new SMC battery bars look like they are "the ticket" for the JRXS. They are flatter (for clearance) and wider (more surface to solder) than anyone else's.

FYI...I have heard a few times that sleeves and Shoe Goo hold in too much heat and have a negative impact on the recovery of the cells. Sounds plausible...
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:51 PM   #4414
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why not try braided wire for pack assembly
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:05 PM   #4415
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Away from here two days and I am a few pages behind............. LOL

Any good set up's from the weekend? I have one that I will post on www.jrxs.com very soon. I have a very good carpet set up right now that works for modified and stock.......

As for the shrink and shoe gooing situation. Trinity offers a VERY THIN heat shrink for cells. I am using it on my 3300's and have no problems..

Shoe goo. I use a small drop of shoe between the cells, but I do not apply it until after the packs are built. I use a q-tip and place a small amount between each cell and then I wrap the battery with tape over night. The tape keeps it tight until dry. If you do not have a problem using it CA glue is probably the better way to go......

3700's. I will not use extra shrink or shoe good. The battery is much bigger and this will cause the pack to be much longer. Reshrinking will only make them longer.......

As Richard stated. Losi is working on another battery tray that will better accomodate the GP3700 and IB3800.
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:14 PM   #4416
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Hey I just assembled 3 packs of the IB3600's with the SMC bars, Trinity cell wrap and no glue and they all 3 fit perfectly. Now I just have to wait till Friday and then Hobby World here I come!!!!!
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:19 PM   #4417
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You guys happen to have the Trinity part # for the shrink? Thanks

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Old 04-25-2005, 11:24 PM   #4418
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Quote:
Originally posted by POOKYT
You guys happen to have the Trinity part # for the shrink? Thanks

Brant
Trinity numbers RC5075 (20 pcs) or RC5166 (100 pcs). The 100 pcs is only $4.99.
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:31 PM   #4419
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oh....Bill beat me too it....LOL
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:32 PM   #4420
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gearhead3
oh....Bill beat me too it....LOL
And I beat you to it too...he, he...

I just don't have any cars to build at the moment...Might buy another tomorrow...
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:36 PM   #4421
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Thank You fellas!!

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Old 04-25-2005, 11:40 PM   #4422
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Gearhead,

I need your e-mail. I have a set up sheet for you to post... I will try to post it here also, but I suspect the file to be to large.
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:53 AM   #4423
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Anyone have a list of the screws used in the kit? Or a link to a manual? Thanks.
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:54 AM   #4424
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Quote:
Originally posted by micros_rock
Anyone have a list of the screws used in the kit? Or a link to a manual? Thanks.
Click here for parts blow up

Soon as i get time i will upload the manual. The screew list has been listed before. can't seamt o find it tho.
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:56 AM   #4425
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Quote:
Originally posted by micros_rock
Anyone have a list of the screws used in the kit? Or a link to a manual? Thanks.
Todd Hodge posted a primary list many, many pages ago. Thank it was a response to my question on the Hodgimoto string.

RCScrewz has a kit of stainless screws for the JRX-S already (for like $19.95). I used them on mine. Is a fairly complete kit of the sizes needed; however, I had to take a few from a spares screw box to do it all the way in stainless. Theirs was 6 or so short on 4-40 x 3/8 flatheads; but, they had an excess of about 10-15 other useful sizes too. Suppose they may have gotten bad info intially.
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Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 04-26-2005 at 08:06 AM.
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