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Old 04-24-2005, 03:50 PM   #4321
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Darkseid,
The part number for the JRXS sway bar is LOSA 4252.

I ran the car today in our last race of the season and the car is simply amazing. I carries so much corner speed. The upstops really make a difference in the cars handling as well. It makes it react better with less body roll. I also played with diff heights, the higher setting made the car bite harder going into the corner but the lower height allowed a smoother transition. It is so cool that little changes like that make such a difference.
Does anyone know what part that Hodge has on his car that spaces the shocks out? It looks like blue stacked washers. They just look pretty cool. I cant wait for the optional spur gears to really fine tune the rollout as well.
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Old 04-24-2005, 03:53 PM   #4322
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First...I don't own one of these cars but have read about all of the cutting some people had to do!!That sucks.Anyway...I here GP is comming out with a HIGH voltage 3300 cell to replace the one the have now.Same size as the old 3300, just more voltage.Why wouldn't people just wait,use the old 3300 cell and get the new cells when they come out?The new cell is geared more towards the shorter rases(5mim vs 8mim in japan).To me,I would rather have higher voltage than longer runtimes and less voltage.
Cell voltage of the new cells I here are over 1.200 range,with higher runtimes around the 400 sec range.(not sure of discharge rate)
Don't know if this true,just what I here through the grape vine.
Good luck everyone with your new cars.They look great.
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Old 04-24-2005, 03:56 PM   #4323
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Sorry,doudle post
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:16 PM   #4324
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ahsikes -Thank you
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:30 PM   #4325
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
First my servo arm slipped on the slines, then later I broke the most unusual part...a bellcrank arm (the short one) so I have some ordering to do.

-Darkseid [/B]
I had the same problem lastnight. The manual stated to use the 25t for KO when it is actually the 23t. The same as JR. Took me three quals to figure the eratic steering. But once I figured it out, it was all good.

Later,
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:41 PM   #4326
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one more thing, the ball cup is hitting the rear hub limimiting the travel way too much. the stud is in the outter hole and inner in the arm but this is only really bad in one side. when i change around the ball cups its but the other arm dose not travel right. so... did i just mess some thing up in the ball cup or is it in the hub?
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:51 PM   #4327
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If you are using the B hole near the rim on the rear hub. You will need to grind the edge of the A part of the hub at a angle to allow the suspension to work properly. Hope this helps
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:59 PM   #4328
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thanks alot. im afraid to race this thing now i spent all my time and what happens if i break it(knock on wood) and the parts on back order for a month(knock on wood again)
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Old 04-24-2005, 05:09 PM   #4329
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
Basically, Todd Hodge's wiring layout with Corally plugs...no soldering with my essential tremor (he, he...).

Those are SMC3600 batteries.
Looks great Bill. Nice job on the chassis prep. Any tips on techniques? I have 400 and 600 grit wet/dry paper and plan on using Zap pacer super thin CA + kicker.

How much material did you have to remove on the rear battery slot?

Thanks.

Pic of my progress so far(or lack thereof) attached.
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Old 04-24-2005, 05:10 PM   #4330
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Tony- You should have just listened to me. But I hate to say I told ya so. jk

Hope the new ride works for ya. Just be sure to bring rubber tires. I'll be at Larry's on Wed. working on rubber set-ups for the TC4 but I can't stay to late. I have to leave around 2:30 or so.
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Old 04-24-2005, 05:25 PM   #4331
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whats up Adam? wait.....Tc4?.....i thought....no more on road i cant make it i get out of school at 3:30 and then track ends at 5:00 but i may go to halo on sunday if i get arms,my rubberneck bumper and parts from horizon but not this sunday but the next for sure i will race if you want to come. and do you want to race some electric on road out door this summer?
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Old 04-24-2005, 05:59 PM   #4332
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Quote:
Originally posted by CRASH
I had the same problem lastnight. The manual stated to use the 25t for KO when it is actually the 23t. The same as JR. Took me three quals to figure the eratic steering. But once I figured it out, it was all good.

Later,
Really??? I'm using a KO too, perhapes that explains why my car was fine one lap, then drifted into the boards on the straight the next lap!?! (when I broke the bellcrank arm)

Thanks for the tip, I'm make the switch as soon as my replacement part gets here.
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Old 04-24-2005, 06:15 PM   #4333
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Quote:
Originally posted by ahsikes
http://www.2brainsdesign.com/2brains...rubberneck.htm

They are awesome. ordered last week and got the bumper on friday. I am so glad I read this board. The bumper is so much more dense.
Thanks guys for the kind words!!!

JRXS: Anyone have problems with "tight" ball cups? I had them popping off all day...
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Old 04-24-2005, 06:25 PM   #4334
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Quote:
Originally posted by wannabee
Thanks guys for the kind words!!!

JRXS: Anyone have problems with "tight" ball cups? I had them popping off all day...
i have 2 tight ball cups but im going to polish all of them tonite and ill tell you haw it went.
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Old 04-24-2005, 06:29 PM   #4335
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so has anyone tried or have raced this car yet?
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