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Old 05-08-2011, 12:39 AM   #1
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Default Lock Nut Heats up.

Hi. I have a TF5 RTR. My rear lock nut gets really hot that u cant touch. Only the rear left. Even on full throttle it feels weird on the straight. What could be the cause?

When its of the ground and i accelerate and let it roll, u can see the rear left stops faster than the remaining 3 wheels. All the nuts are tighten equally.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:45 AM   #2
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A bad ball bearing can cause this. Why would your lock nut be hot? And how would you even know?

You should be able to turn the car over by hand slowly (without power) and be able to tell that something is wrong. If you can tell us more about the issue we might be of more help.

Steve
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:48 AM   #3
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Pop off the upper rear turnbuckle near the rear bulkhead, let the dogbone fall out. Then turn the dogbone slowly by hand and you should get a good feel for the condition of the rear axle ball bearings, if your not sure, do the same to the other rear side and compare.
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Old 05-08-2011, 01:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
A bad ball bearing can cause this. Why would your lock nut be hot? And how would you even know?

You should be able to turn the car over by hand slowly (without power) and be able to tell that something is wrong. If you can tell us more about the issue we might be of more help.

Steve

Thanks for the reply Corallyman. I wanted to change my rim and almost burned my finger. That's how i realized. It actually started with my car not going straight properly/not gripping.. I thought it might have to do with tyres.

I will do what u suggested with the dogbone. Thanks!

I also must add, this guy (hobby shop) poped out the dogbone, put in a hex like screwdriver and loosen something inside. I dont know why but he said it will handle better. He did this before this problem happened. It did handle better but the locknut gets hot. He then told me to loosen the locknut and it was a little better but sometimes it does heat up again.


I hope i was clear as i am a newbie.
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:43 AM   #5
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this happened to me last year, i was using X ray bearings blue rubbber sealed and the bearings seized, causing the CVD to have great friction, thereby heating everything in the area, and melting the hub and the rim in the process. I had to change new bearings, new hubs , then problem is solved, using ceramic bearings will also help.
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Old 05-08-2011, 04:53 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
this happened to me last year, i was using X ray bearings blue rubbber sealed and the bearings seized, causing the CVD to have great friction, thereby heating everything in the area, and melting the hub and the rim in the process. I had to change new bearings, new hubs , then problem is solved, using ceramic bearings will also help.
ic. thanks... i just opened and wheels turn pretty smoothly. oiled them with go go juice. will c what happens on my next run
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Old 05-08-2011, 09:05 AM   #7
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Turning the wheel by hand on the bench is not going to say much about what happens at speed on the track. There's many variables here (such as the motor you're running which can overpower the transmission, and so on), but I think your problem is pinching your bearings. What happens is the wheelnut is tightening whilst racing and pinching your bearings, therefore increasing friction, and everything is heating up then.

I would encourage you to bin the old bearings and start fresh. Check when you have the problem if the wheelnut is any tighter than when you did it up before the race.

The nut can be tightening because your car is brushing or hitting something (even slightly). Are you using nylock nuts or serrated?

To avoid this problem for ever you need to use a spacer on the driveshaft, inbetween the bearings, such that when doing up the nut tight, the bearings are not squeezed together, but their inner races push against the spacer. A bit involved, but you can find the right size spacer or make your own. I use old bearings. Take the inner race out and cut with a Dremel, then sand down to right size by trial. You can then do up your wheelnuts as tight as you want.
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Old 05-09-2011, 02:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Turning the wheel by hand on the bench is not going to say much about what happens at speed on the track. There's many variables here (such as the motor you're running which can overpower the transmission, and so on), but I think your problem is pinching your bearings. What happens is the wheelnut is tightening whilst racing and pinching your bearings, therefore increasing friction, and everything is heating up then.

I would encourage you to bin the old bearings and start fresh. Check when you have the problem if the wheelnut is any tighter than when you did it up before the race.

The nut can be tightening because your car is brushing or hitting something (even slightly). Are you using nylock nuts or serrated?

To avoid this problem for ever you need to use a spacer on the driveshaft, inbetween the bearings, such that when doing up the nut tight, the bearings are not squeezed together, but their inner races push against the spacer. A bit involved, but you can find the right size spacer or make your own. I use old bearings. Take the inner race out and cut with a Dremel, then sand down to right size by trial. You can then do up your wheelnuts as tight as you want.

Hi Niznai. I think the nuts are nylock. The standard ones. Will check it out. Thanks.
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