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Old 09-23-2004, 07:25 AM   #1
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Default Fuzzy brush serrator

Has anyone bought and used the fuzzy brush serrator that is posted for sale on the banners.

Thoughts, how do you like it, etc.

Thought about using it for club racing on stock motors to keep brushes in use a little longer.

Thanks to all.
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Old 09-23-2004, 08:25 AM   #2
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Good idea, not sure about the cooper though.
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Old 09-23-2004, 08:46 AM   #3
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The fussy brush tools work great.....easy to use and well made....

I will be one of the first to get the replacement comms they are making, so I will let you know how they work out.....

Later EddieO
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:16 PM   #4
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I use mine all the time... works great and its a quality made tool
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Old 09-23-2004, 03:35 PM   #5
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what's it do exactly?
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Old 09-23-2004, 03:36 PM   #6
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anyone got a link to infomation/pictures about this tool?
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Old 09-23-2004, 03:53 PM   #7
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IMO For the price of that fuzzy brush thing, I'd rather get a brush serrator/grinder.
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:16 PM   #8
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Umm....they sell a serrator.

I have all three serrators available on the market besides the fussy brush....and I use it hands down compared to others.

The web address is http://www.fussybrush.com

They sell two different items really.

One is a brush shaper, which can be used on ANY brush...it gets the curvature right with the comm, so break in time will be minimal.

The other is the brush serrator bits, which does a similar job as other serrators, but works better because you can match the brush curvature to your comm diameter....this might not sound like a big deal, but until you try to break in a brush with different curvature than the comm, you will quickly understand.

Later EddieO
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:21 PM   #9
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what do you use the serrater for, just to cut notches in your brushes so they will fit the comm better, because they sell brushes with serrations allready in them
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:41 PM   #10
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But a serrator can reserrate a serrated brush once the serrations have deserrated.
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Old 09-23-2004, 04:43 PM   #11
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It's crap.
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Old 09-23-2004, 05:38 PM   #12
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there is power to be made with serrations, and the motor may run a bit cooler. Serrations will usually wear off in a run or two and who wants to be replacing brushes that often in stock?
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Old 09-23-2004, 05:53 PM   #13
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Bolink Boy, If you bought one and are not satisfied then why don't you send it back. I'll refund your purchase price plus $4.00 for your return shipping cost.
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Old 09-23-2004, 06:04 PM   #14
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I see that you will be coming out with your own line of motors and accy it looks like, do you use the fussy brush on when doing all your team motors?

I'm thinking about buying one to use for stock club racing and by the sounds of it it's worth the investment.

Granted it's only a small part of what needs to be done to a motor.

On the website it mentioned showing the true alignment of the brush hood, does it help that a bunch of well. Any tips you could pass along about how to use it the website doesn't mention.

Thanks.
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Old 09-23-2004, 07:20 PM   #15
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bigdog, let me see if I can help EddieO out a little. Where the CommSleeve product is a little tricky and requires precision soldering the FussyBrush tool is pretty simple.

The Full Face and Serrator bits come in four sizes. You pick the size closest to your current comm size. As an example if your comm size is say .281 then you use the .285 Full Face bit or .285 Serrator bit. Neither will give you a perfect seat on the brush but they will get close. If your comm size is within .005 to .010 of the bit size then you should be able to finish off with 30-60 seconds of run-in, depending on the brush compound. Most racers don't bother, as they will finish seating once you start the race. Starting the race with a brush that is just a hair larger will cause the comm to only contact the inside of the brush for a while. This reduces brush/comm overlap for the first 30 seconds or so thus drawing less off your battery peak at the beginning of the race and leaving it for later. You can even use this as a strategy by purposely using a larger size. You donít need all the sizes. If getting only one then get the larger for that particular comm type, regular or large. (i.e.-.300 for regular and .350 for large)

The Full Face bits really do work well. The Serration bits in my opinion are made as well as they can be made but they do not cut perfect serrations. I try to point this out on my site. Iíve had a lot of people say they like the way the serrations are cut. They just donít look like the originals. They arenít as smooth looking. Pics are on site. The trick is to not try to go to deep. One of the big benefits of serrating in the motor is that you can re-serrate easily without removing the brushes. Just make sure you always put your brushes back in the same direction and the existing serrations will line up with the cutting bit. Where the Full Face bit is a no brainer the serration bit requires a little practice.

The serrator bit doesnít re-shape brushes very well. (laydown to standup) Thatís because the teeth on the bit bottom out on the brush. The Full Face bit does a great job of re-shaping. If you want to re-serrate a laydown to a standup then you need to re-shape it with the Full Face bit and then serrate it. After that you can re-serrate as the serrations wear.

The shaping or serrating is done by applying a little pressure to the brush with your motor screwdriver. Just put a little pressure on it and turn the shaper shaft. If you have a lot to remove as when re-shaping then you can go back and forth with the direction of the shaper. As you are about to finish then you should turn the shaper only in the direction the motor turns. This is because the shaper pulls the brushes up against the hood as the comm does and you want it to pull in the same direction when finishing. Also, lighten the pressure on the brush as you complete to about what your brush springs would apply; this kind of finishes it off.

I hope this helps; Iíll try to get better instructions with pics added to the site.
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