Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
#6346
The Evicerator
We have tested the software on Win2000 but there are problems with it's USB preformance that prevent propper connection/data transfers from the sentry to the PC.
As far as the accellerometer goes, the x and y arrows are for reference... you can place them in your car however you'd like... if you want x to be front to back, place it that way... if you want y to be front to back, place it that way instead.
It really is more so that you can easily tell which is which.
As far as the accellerometer goes, the x and y arrows are for reference... you can place them in your car however you'd like... if you want x to be front to back, place it that way... if you want y to be front to back, place it that way instead.
It really is more so that you can easily tell which is which.
Hey Steve, got a question about the Sentry, I know the software is only mentioned as compatible with Windows XP & Vista, but has it been tried with any others, like Windows 2000? Reason I ask is becuase my laptop has Win2000, & while I believe I can upgrade it to XP, I'd prefer not to(given how much of a resource hog XP & especially Vista can be). Also, about mounting the Sentry in a car, am I right in thinking that the the "X" & its arrow(the markings on the casing denoting the accelerometers I mean) should point straight forward? Appreciate any help you can give...
#6349
where do you guys start gearing with a 13.5 touring car
FDR???
FDR???
#6350
The Evicerator
Depends on the size of the track, but generally gearings are between 4.2 and 4.5
#6351
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Steve,
I am determined to stay with brushed for a while, and I just picked up a s/h GTX. Could you please enlighten me with a definition of Standard vs Drag braking and how they work.
The manual doesn't define it, and with the advent of brushless technology I am getting a little confuzed.
Kevin
I am determined to stay with brushed for a while, and I just picked up a s/h GTX. Could you please enlighten me with a definition of Standard vs Drag braking and how they work.
The manual doesn't define it, and with the advent of brushless technology I am getting a little confuzed.
Kevin
#6352
Tech Adept
GTB SS Thermal problem?
Steve,
i have GTB SS ESC,team orion Vortex 3.5 motor all powered with 5 nimh 4600 factory matched cells. Geraing is 8.0, track is big, low to midium grip. Recomended gearing for big track by team orion for 5 cell is 7.8. I was allso using 4.5 vortex motor with 7.5 gearing without any problem. As speedo is new after about 10 runs I have first thermal problem when sticker(telling you directions how to mount fan) from fan was off and did block fan from spinning. ESC was 89°C when thermaled. After that i have strange problem with ESC. As i drive for about 2-3 minutes ESC starts to cut off power from motor for a second, then you can drive for a secoond or two then los power again and it goes like that in circle. Lipo mode is off - i have duble check that!! Temperature of the motor is about 70-75°C ESC was 56-62°C, cells are 60-68°C, air was 34°C. As i have new high speed much more fan i have replace stock ESC fan and i did have time yestarday only to test it once with older batery and it was fine(at52°C after 5 min), but not shure if will hold on high grip track and super high temperatures in Spain - Euros in Villa Real that i will race. As i dont have time to send ESC for factory check, can you give me advice. I was thinking to screw of cooler and to check termal grace status. I have high quality CPU grace that i can use. Thanks.
i have GTB SS ESC,team orion Vortex 3.5 motor all powered with 5 nimh 4600 factory matched cells. Geraing is 8.0, track is big, low to midium grip. Recomended gearing for big track by team orion for 5 cell is 7.8. I was allso using 4.5 vortex motor with 7.5 gearing without any problem. As speedo is new after about 10 runs I have first thermal problem when sticker(telling you directions how to mount fan) from fan was off and did block fan from spinning. ESC was 89°C when thermaled. After that i have strange problem with ESC. As i drive for about 2-3 minutes ESC starts to cut off power from motor for a second, then you can drive for a secoond or two then los power again and it goes like that in circle. Lipo mode is off - i have duble check that!! Temperature of the motor is about 70-75°C ESC was 56-62°C, cells are 60-68°C, air was 34°C. As i have new high speed much more fan i have replace stock ESC fan and i did have time yestarday only to test it once with older batery and it was fine(at52°C after 5 min), but not shure if will hold on high grip track and super high temperatures in Spain - Euros in Villa Real that i will race. As i dont have time to send ESC for factory check, can you give me advice. I was thinking to screw of cooler and to check termal grace status. I have high quality CPU grace that i can use. Thanks.
#6353
The Evicerator
Steve,
I am determined to stay with brushed for a while, and I just picked up a s/h GTX. Could you please enlighten me with a definition of Standard vs Drag braking and how they work.
The manual doesn't define it, and with the advent of brushless technology I am getting a little confuzed.
Kevin
I am determined to stay with brushed for a while, and I just picked up a s/h GTX. Could you please enlighten me with a definition of Standard vs Drag braking and how they work.
The manual doesn't define it, and with the advent of brushless technology I am getting a little confuzed.
Kevin
Drag brake is extra brake at neutral in addition to whatever the motor does "naturally"... Most of the time drag brake is not used with brushed motors... or if it is used, a rather small amount is used.
The other adjustment is the minimum brake adjustment. What this controls is the initial brake response when you first hit the push brake. The higher the %, the more aggressive it will be.
Steve,
i have GTB SS ESC,team orion Vortex 3.5 motor all powered with 5 nimh 4600 factory matched cells. Geraing is 8.0, track is big, low to midium grip. Recomended gearing for big track by team orion for 5 cell is 7.8. I was allso using 4.5 vortex motor with 7.5 gearing without any problem. As speedo is new after about 10 runs I have first thermal problem when sticker(telling you directions how to mount fan) from fan was off and did block fan from spinning. ESC was 89°C when thermaled. After that i have strange problem with ESC. As i drive for about 2-3 minutes ESC starts to cut off power from motor for a second, then you can drive for a secoond or two then los power again and it goes like that in circle. Lipo mode is off - i have duble check that!! Temperature of the motor is about 70-75°C ESC was 56-62°C, cells are 60-68°C, air was 34°C. As i have new high speed much more fan i have replace stock ESC fan and i did have time yestarday only to test it once with older batery and it was fine(at52°C after 5 min), but not shure if will hold on high grip track and super high temperatures in Spain - Euros in Villa Real that i will race. As i dont have time to send ESC for factory check, can you give me advice. I was thinking to screw of cooler and to check termal grace status. I have high quality CPU grace that i can use. Thanks.
i have GTB SS ESC,team orion Vortex 3.5 motor all powered with 5 nimh 4600 factory matched cells. Geraing is 8.0, track is big, low to midium grip. Recomended gearing for big track by team orion for 5 cell is 7.8. I was allso using 4.5 vortex motor with 7.5 gearing without any problem. As speedo is new after about 10 runs I have first thermal problem when sticker(telling you directions how to mount fan) from fan was off and did block fan from spinning. ESC was 89°C when thermaled. After that i have strange problem with ESC. As i drive for about 2-3 minutes ESC starts to cut off power from motor for a second, then you can drive for a secoond or two then los power again and it goes like that in circle. Lipo mode is off - i have duble check that!! Temperature of the motor is about 70-75°C ESC was 56-62°C, cells are 60-68°C, air was 34°C. As i have new high speed much more fan i have replace stock ESC fan and i did have time yestarday only to test it once with older batery and it was fine(at52°C after 5 min), but not shure if will hold on high grip track and super high temperatures in Spain - Euros in Villa Real that i will race. As i dont have time to send ESC for factory check, can you give me advice. I was thinking to screw of cooler and to check termal grace status. I have high quality CPU grace that i can use. Thanks.
I just replied to the email you sent me! I think you will be ok but check your email for ideas!
#6354
Hey Steve, I have a few questions about the data logger.
First, can you use any combination of sensors you want or just certain ones? I would be interested in a set up with 2 rpm sensors (nitro), 1 analog temp and throttle position.
Second, is there any reason I couldn't use my own magnets for the rpm sensor? I am also a slot car racer so working with magnets is nothing new to me (I even have a zapper) and I just can't see a couple magnets glued to a flywheel staying put a 40,000 rpm. I could drill a couple holes in the flywheel and permanently install a couple small neo or cobalt mags.
Third, What is the sampling rate? RPM readings aren't much good to me if it has a really slow sampling rate.
And finally, any plans to make an exhaust gas temp sensor? I know I could put a sensor around the pipe but that won't give the accuracy I want. An actual probe to go into the manifold would be ideal. Maybe a small probe with a threaded body so all you would have to do is drill and tap a hole in the manifold.
Thanks.
First, can you use any combination of sensors you want or just certain ones? I would be interested in a set up with 2 rpm sensors (nitro), 1 analog temp and throttle position.
Second, is there any reason I couldn't use my own magnets for the rpm sensor? I am also a slot car racer so working with magnets is nothing new to me (I even have a zapper) and I just can't see a couple magnets glued to a flywheel staying put a 40,000 rpm. I could drill a couple holes in the flywheel and permanently install a couple small neo or cobalt mags.
Third, What is the sampling rate? RPM readings aren't much good to me if it has a really slow sampling rate.
And finally, any plans to make an exhaust gas temp sensor? I know I could put a sensor around the pipe but that won't give the accuracy I want. An actual probe to go into the manifold would be ideal. Maybe a small probe with a threaded body so all you would have to do is drill and tap a hole in the manifold.
Thanks.
#6355
Hi steve
- are the brushless motor cans conductive?
- just wondering if there will be nasty short circuit if a solder wire tab was to accidentally come in contact with the motor can itself ?
- are the brushless motor cans conductive?
- just wondering if there will be nasty short circuit if a solder wire tab was to accidentally come in contact with the motor can itself ?
#6356
The Evicerator
Hey Steve, I have a few questions about the data logger.
First, can you use any combination of sensors you want or just certain ones? I would be interested in a set up with 2 rpm sensors (nitro), 1 analog temp and throttle position.
Second, is there any reason I couldn't use my own magnets for the rpm sensor? I am also a slot car racer so working with magnets is nothing new to me (I even have a zapper) and I just can't see a couple magnets glued to a flywheel staying put a 40,000 rpm. I could drill a couple holes in the flywheel and permanently install a couple small neo or cobalt mags.
Third, What is the sampling rate? RPM readings aren't much good to me if it has a really slow sampling rate.
And finally, any plans to make an exhaust gas temp sensor? I know I could put a sensor around the pipe but that won't give the accuracy I want. An actual probe to go into the manifold would be ideal. Maybe a small probe with a threaded body so all you would have to do is drill and tap a hole in the manifold.
Thanks.
First, can you use any combination of sensors you want or just certain ones? I would be interested in a set up with 2 rpm sensors (nitro), 1 analog temp and throttle position.
Second, is there any reason I couldn't use my own magnets for the rpm sensor? I am also a slot car racer so working with magnets is nothing new to me (I even have a zapper) and I just can't see a couple magnets glued to a flywheel staying put a 40,000 rpm. I could drill a couple holes in the flywheel and permanently install a couple small neo or cobalt mags.
Third, What is the sampling rate? RPM readings aren't much good to me if it has a really slow sampling rate.
And finally, any plans to make an exhaust gas temp sensor? I know I could put a sensor around the pipe but that won't give the accuracy I want. An actual probe to go into the manifold would be ideal. Maybe a small probe with a threaded body so all you would have to do is drill and tap a hole in the manifold.
Thanks.
In reference to the magnets that you use, any type can be used, just two need to be used because one needs to be North, the other needs to be south.
The sampling rate is adjustable, but it is as fast as a sample every 0.1 seconds
In regards to the exhaust gas specific sensor we could look into offering one like what you have mentioned
The parts are all slightly conductive... I would advise to be very careful of any shorts...
#6357
Steve,
Have you ever had a day like this?
http://www.theage.com.au/national/lu...0715-3fe6.html
You know, just walking along minding your own business and BAM! You get hit by a car (the idiot driver doesn't stop for 15 km by the way). So, they cut you out of the grill and rush you to the hospital where it turns out you don't have any broken bones or anything worse than some ruffled hair and some bruises.
The punchline is in the article... Sometimes you just can't make this stuff up.
Have you ever had a day like this?
http://www.theage.com.au/national/lu...0715-3fe6.html
You know, just walking along minding your own business and BAM! You get hit by a car (the idiot driver doesn't stop for 15 km by the way). So, they cut you out of the grill and rush you to the hospital where it turns out you don't have any broken bones or anything worse than some ruffled hair and some bruises.
The punchline is in the article... Sometimes you just can't make this stuff up.
#6358
The Evicerator
Can't say that I've ever been hit by a car and dragged along for an extra 5 or 6 miles... but I've had my fair share of close calls that should have left me injured
#6359
Tech Elite
iTrader: (101)
Gday Steve
Will the XBR ESC handle an 8.5 sintered SS motor? I want to upgrade the bonded rotor motor I have but wanted to make sure the ESC wont thermal, also what FDR do you recommend for the 8.5SS using the XBR, I just dont want to have to upgrade my ESC thats all.
Cheers
Adrian
Will the XBR ESC handle an 8.5 sintered SS motor? I want to upgrade the bonded rotor motor I have but wanted to make sure the ESC wont thermal, also what FDR do you recommend for the 8.5SS using the XBR, I just dont want to have to upgrade my ESC thats all.
Cheers
Adrian
#6360
rules
Does anyone know if you could run a separate receiver pack in 1/10 onroad electric tourer under roar rules?