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Old 01-06-2010, 06:17 AM   #7066
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Hi Mr Weiss, I never wrote in "your" thread before but I read it pretty often and I suspect you are extremely knowledgeable. I have several questions I'd like to ask you :

My motor( not novak but Orion) has 6 "steps" or "clicks" when turning the rotor by hand, much like my brushed motors. From what I understand it comes from the 2pole magnet (times) 3pole bobin that makes this. Do I undertstand well ?

On this motor, the "steps" are curiously unequal in the amount of force needed to move the motor to the following step.

I made a crappy paint+touchpad picture of what I am trying to describe, see attachments. The "+" is for: WEAK magnet feelng when moving the rotor and +++ = STRONG "magnet feeling" (I think you get the idea).

Soooo, my question is : WHY is this unequal ? I noticed that the feeling is strong one every other step so , might this be a bad rotor magnet, stronger on one side? My electronics understanding is very limited so I hope I am not making a fool of myself...

I'm very curious to have your explanation ! Thanks a lot
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Old 01-09-2010, 02:58 PM   #7067
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Hi,

Does anyone know if there should be a gap between the front end-bell cap & the sleeve on the Novak Ballistic motors. I'm assuming there shouldn't be. I've a gap on one of my motors that I stripped & cleaned (for the first time).



Cheers.

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Old 01-14-2010, 05:50 AM   #7068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Let me know how it goes with the blue wire removed! If that doesn't help there may be some other issues at play and we can delve into them then!
Steve,

To follow up on my issues, I tried removing the blue wire but the car would stop in the first lap, pretty much the same scenario but it happen a lot faster, the car stop for 4-5 second and start again.

So I changed the sensor wire, I though that was it, I ran a full race night without issues. Last race, I took TQ and everything was perfect but in my main, The car stopped at the first lap after about 15 second of driving. Waited about 4 second and the car started again but stopped in the following lap. the motor wasn't even at 80 degres so it didn't thermal

Yesterday I went practicing and changed the motor, went from a speedpassion to a one race old tekin. same issue after two laps. Went at my table, put the pack on charge to make sure it wasn't the lipo cut off that had caused the issue but the pack was still at 8.2v. Then I use an old orion 20c pack and managed to run for about 10 minutes witouth a single problem.

Do you know what could be the cause of this? I had cut off issues with my fully charged smc 4000 28C pack and was fine with an orion 3200 20C...

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:05 AM   #7069
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Hey Guys,

Sorry about the delay in the responses! Things have been busy and sometimes this thread drops out of sight very quickly!

Quote:
Originally Posted by heretic View Post
Hi Mr Weiss, I never wrote in "your" thread before but I read it pretty often and I suspect you are extremely knowledgeable. I have several questions I'd like to ask you :

My motor( not novak but Orion) has 6 "steps" or "clicks" when turning the rotor by hand, much like my brushed motors. From what I understand it comes from the 2pole magnet (times) 3pole bobin that makes this. Do I undertstand well ?

On this motor, the "steps" are curiously unequal in the amount of force needed to move the motor to the following step.

I made a crappy paint+touchpad picture of what I am trying to describe, see attachments. The "+" is for: WEAK magnet feelng when moving the rotor and +++ = STRONG "magnet feeling" (I think you get the idea).

Soooo, my question is : WHY is this unequal ? I noticed that the feeling is strong one every other step so , might this be a bad rotor magnet, stronger on one side? My electronics understanding is very limited so I hope I am not making a fool of myself...

I'm very curious to have your explanation ! Thanks a lot
I would check to see if your rotor's magnetic strength is equal on both North and South Poles.

The interior of the stator is relatively symetrical from reference to the rotor, IE, at each of the six points around a revolution, the rotor will essentially see one tooth and one slot.

The rotor should be drawn more towards the tooth than the slot, and if both poles of the magnet are equal I would think that the "click" that you would feel would be relatively equal.

If, however, the magnet is significantly weaker on one side than the other, You may be feeling this disparity around the rotation of the rotor itself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MiCk B View Post
Hi,

Does anyone know if there should be a gap between the front end-bell cap & the sleeve on the Novak Ballistic motors. I'm assuming there shouldn't be. I've a gap on one of my motors that I stripped & cleaned (for the first time).



Cheers.

MiCk B. :-)
Hi Mick,

The gap isn't something to really worry about, it's basically just a tollerance issue with the sleeve that plays no performance role.

If you are concerned about hte sleeve spinning you can simply slide the sleeve off and put a strip of decal down on the lamination to tighten up the interference fit when you slide the sleeve back on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Steve,

To follow up on my issues, I tried removing the blue wire but the car would stop in the first lap, pretty much the same scenario but it happen a lot faster, the car stop for 4-5 second and start again.

So I changed the sensor wire, I though that was it, I ran a full race night without issues. Last race, I took TQ and everything was perfect but in my main, The car stopped at the first lap after about 15 second of driving. Waited about 4 second and the car started again but stopped in the following lap. the motor wasn't even at 80 degres so it didn't thermal

Yesterday I went practicing and changed the motor, went from a speedpassion to a one race old tekin. same issue after two laps. Went at my table, put the pack on charge to make sure it wasn't the lipo cut off that had caused the issue but the pack was still at 8.2v. Then I use an old orion 20c pack and managed to run for about 10 minutes witouth a single problem.

Do you know what could be the cause of this? I had cut off issues with my fully charged smc 4000 28C pack and was fine with an orion 3200 20C...

Thanks in advance!
Hey June,

That's a really odd problem you are having with your equipment! Usually we see problems with lower C rated packs instead of the higher C rated packs.

I think at this point it'd be best to try to send the ESC in to us for evaluation and repair/repgramming/replacement.
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:02 AM   #7070
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Could it be the battery being out of balance? It migh not be the esc.
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:33 AM   #7071
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Can someone exlplain the "timing" on a 17.5 ribbed can, and how many degrees are advancable?
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:48 PM   #7072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
I would check to see if your rotor's magnetic strength is equal on both North and South Poles.

The interior of the stator is relatively symetrical from reference to the rotor, IE, at each of the six points around a revolution, the rotor will essentially see one tooth and one slot.

The rotor should be drawn more towards the tooth than the slot, and if both poles of the magnet are equal I would think that the "click" that you would feel would be relatively equal.

If, however, the magnet is significantly weaker on one side than the other, You may be feeling this disparity around the rotation of the rotor itself.

Thanks A LOT for your response ! Do you think it affects the performance of the motor ? I guess it does, of course. Any ideas on how to check the poles of my rotor ?

thanks again !
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:28 PM   #7073
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Thanks A LOT for your response ! Do you think it affects the performance of the motor ? I guess it does, of course. Any ideas on how to check the poles of my rotor ?

thanks again !
You need to use a rotor gauss measurement device like the Zubak Speedmeter. This way you can check the strength on both sides.
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:29 PM   #7074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tha Skinny View Post
Can someone exlplain the "timing" on a 17.5 ribbed can, and how many degrees are advancable?
They come set stock at 30 degrees. The adjustable range is generally between 15 and 45 degrees.
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:11 PM   #7075
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Hey Steve:

How do you D.A.????????? and how many play throughs?????????


Thanks
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:29 PM   #7076
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Hey Steve:

How do you D.A.????????? and how many play throughs?????????


Thanks
Xbox... just on my first playthrough as a rogue actually ... trying to be very thourough to keep myself busy until ME2 comes out!

I have a copy on PS3 as well for my gf so she doesn't steal my game
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:43 PM   #7077
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Hey Steve
I have a Havoc pro brushless system with a 17.5 ballistic (better then average lipoís) and the system seems to be lacking speed as compared to other systems running at my track. This is for foam tire TC, the motor and esc are new and hasnít overheated. I am running around 120-130max degrees after a race. The gearing seems right and the temp is good. Do I have it on a wrong setting/mode in the esc? I am running a spektrum radio. I donít want to over gear and burn anything up and Iím not trying to compare it to the Tekins either.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 01-21-2010, 12:17 AM   #7078
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Hey Steve
I have a Havoc pro brushless system with a 17.5 ballistic (better then average lipoís) and the system seems to be lacking speed as compared to other systems running at my track. This is for foam tire TC, the motor and esc are new and hasnít overheated. I am running around 120-130max degrees after a race. The gearing seems right and the temp is good. Do I have it on a wrong setting/mode in the esc? I am running a spektrum radio. I donít want to over gear and burn anything up and Iím not trying to compare it to the Tekins either.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Well, the Havoc ESC's don't have any advanced timing features like pretty much every other ESC on the market now has... even if you were to compare it to "older" ESCs like the LRP spheres it would be down on speed just being due to the nature of the software... the timing features have been around for a while... just not as crazy fast as some the latest offerings.

If I were you I'd double check that you're getting full throttle and be sure to gear properly ... you will likely have to gear up further than people with LRPs, Tekins, Mambas, etc.

If you have any other problems or questions I would recommend you email [email protected] with them.

I am happy to answer any questions I can but I am no longer employed at Novak Electronics as I have decided to switch gears and go back to school on a full time basis.
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Old 03-10-2010, 01:01 PM   #7079
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*crickets*
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Old 03-10-2010, 01:23 PM   #7080
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If they come carrying Novak Kinetics I'm willing to listen
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