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Old 06-29-2009, 11:50 AM   #6916
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Hi Steve, you are my last chance... 3 mail and no answer.

I only have a few qs

Novak Mongoose motor the Three-80 the 13.5T for example can it handle the new E-Revo VXL 1/16?


The gear ratio is:

Gear Ratio (internal) 5.04:1, (reversed input: 9.72:1)
Overall Drive Ratio 9.00 (stock, out-of-box)

/Thomas
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:28 PM   #6917
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Thomas,

I'm sorry that you didn't get any responses...what email address were you using to send email to us?

As far as your question goes, we just got one of these VXL 1/16 E-Revos to test with and as of yet haven't done any testing with it... so I really do not have a good answer for you yet.

Just by the looks of it the motor that they use is fairly large... between the 380 size mongoose and the 540 sized motors... but it is long with a different aspect ratio... more like our HV series of motors.

I will try to get some testing in with it over the next few days and post my findings... if not, always feel free to email me directly at [email protected]


Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas P View Post
Hi Steve, you are my last chance... 3 mail and no answer.

I only have a few qs

Novak Mongoose motor the Three-80 the 13.5T for example can it handle the new E-Revo VXL 1/16?


The gear ratio is:

Gear Ratio (internal) 5.04:1, (reversed input: 9.72:1)
Overall Drive Ratio 9.00 (stock, out-of-box)

/Thomas
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:47 PM   #6918
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Thank you Steve

I will mail you

/Thomas
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:32 AM   #6919
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Default BCR

Steve, You going to be able to run sunday at BCR?
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Old 07-01-2009, 09:23 AM   #6920
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Hey Molina,

It's a possibility... I have just been super busy lately looking for condos and with other crap going on.
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:18 PM   #6921
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Default A thread that needs you attention.

Hey Steve,

Do you want to chime in on this thread?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...t-new-esc.html
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Old 07-01-2009, 09:56 PM   #6922
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Default HV 6.5 combo

Hi Steve,

Me and my friend started a 1/8 gts class here at Discount Hobby Wharehouse in San Diego CA. Now this is the situation with his Novak HV system he have a ofna buggy that was converted to on raod and used the Novak conversion and HV 6.5 the recomemded gearing for that specific model was 11 tooth mod 1 pinion. A week before the race he decided to use 13 tooth for the speed run after a couple of minutes the capacitor burts in flames luckily nothing got damage other than the capacitor I understand that that was an overload. Right after the incident we measured the motor temp and it was at 125f and the ESC was at 109f. He tried to make a call at novak but he was on hold for a while and accidently got cut off then he called right away then the support closed already what a sneaky BAS^#@%!. Then this last Sunday we finally installed a new capacitor that will handle up to 6s lipo but we are only running 4s 5000 mah with a 12 pinion for the race the motor temp was 109f and the ESC was at 135f and he was not running the car as hard as I'm running mine due to capacitor might set on fire again. Is the Temp. sound ok or we need to change the gearing? What should we do?

Thanks in advance and more power to Novak Hope you guys come out with a new brushless ESC for the 1/10 in the near future the market is asking for the good ole orange power!!!
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:58 AM   #6923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude View Post
Hey Steve,

Do you want to chime in on this thread?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...t-new-esc.html
I will try to chime in on this thread later today if I have more time!

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisfrom619 View Post
Hi Steve,

Me and my friend started a 1/8 gts class here at Discount Hobby Wharehouse in San Diego CA. Now this is the situation with his Novak HV system he have a ofna buggy that was converted to on raod and used the Novak conversion and HV 6.5 the recomemded gearing for that specific model was 11 tooth mod 1 pinion. A week before the race he decided to use 13 tooth for the speed run after a couple of minutes the capacitor burts in flames luckily nothing got damage other than the capacitor I understand that that was an overload. Right after the incident we measured the motor temp and it was at 125f and the ESC was at 109f. He tried to make a call at novak but he was on hold for a while and accidently got cut off then he called right away then the support closed already what a sneaky BAS^#@%!. Then this last Sunday we finally installed a new capacitor that will handle up to 6s lipo but we are only running 4s 5000 mah with a 12 pinion for the race the motor temp was 109f and the ESC was at 135f and he was not running the car as hard as I'm running mine due to capacitor might set on fire again. Is the Temp. sound ok or we need to change the gearing? What should we do?

Thanks in advance and more power to Novak Hope you guys come out with a new brushless ESC for the 1/10 in the near future the market is asking for the good ole orange power!!!
I would recommend to drop the gearing down to where we recommended just out of caution. If you want to gear up, just do it one tooth at a time and carefully monitor your motor and ESC temps! The temps you are seeing right now are ok though...we recommend to not exceed 160 degrees F on either the motor or the ESC.
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:14 PM   #6924
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do aftermarket bearings really make that much of a difference?
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Old 07-02-2009, 01:24 PM   #6925
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Default GTB 4 Cell Issue

Steve

FYI - sent via novak email prior to this posting

I am in need of technical assistance with an ESC that is not operating correctly.

ESC - GTB 4 Cell Lipo cutoff
Motor - Trinity Pulse 13.5
Battery - 4 cell NiMH

Issue: Motor runs at approx 1/4 speed, checked voltage at the battery (5.2Vdc idle, 5.1V full throttle). Reset the ESC per instructions and got SOLID RED at Neutral Position. With throttle ON, esc shows solid GREEN. Same issue, repeated setup same issue again.

Without a 2nd motor to try, are there any other recommendations? Could this be one of the three Motor Phase outputs being damaged on either the esc or motor? Anything to do with the sensor leads? Should I try a different profile? Are there any voltage measurements I can take to troubleshoot this?

Thank you
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:07 PM   #6926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
do aftermarket bearings really make that much of a difference?
Aftermarket/Ceramic bearings have their advantages and disadvantages. Those searching for slightly more free/smooth bearings in search of a couple hundred RPM will possibly find that with aftermarket ceramic bearings.

Unfortunately though, ceramic bearings are generally rather fragile under side loads so they are more susceptible to being damaged in crashes and whatnot.

That being said, we have spent alot of time testing bearings and the bearings that we include in the motors are very good performance and very tough as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99 View Post
Steve

FYI - sent via novak email prior to this posting

I am in need of technical assistance with an ESC that is not operating correctly.

ESC - GTB 4 Cell Lipo cutoff
Motor - Trinity Pulse 13.5
Battery - 4 cell NiMH

Issue: Motor runs at approx 1/4 speed, checked voltage at the battery (5.2Vdc idle, 5.1V full throttle). Reset the ESC per instructions and got SOLID RED at Neutral Position. With throttle ON, esc shows solid GREEN. Same issue, repeated setup same issue again.

Without a 2nd motor to try, are there any other recommendations? Could this be one of the three Motor Phase outputs being damaged on either the esc or motor? Anything to do with the sensor leads? Should I try a different profile? Are there any voltage measurements I can take to troubleshoot this?

Thank you
I believe I responded to your email a bit ago... it is easier/faster for me to work via email than via the thread so I will just wait for your response via email.
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Old 07-12-2009, 03:34 PM   #6927
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Hey guys!

I have a 13.5 with the orange ring and I am wondering what the timing range is. From what I can tell, there is maybe 7mm of rotation and I am wondering what this translates to in terms of degrees.

Also, I've come across something strange while rotating the orange ring. The point that I assume is factory set seems to be a bit slow. If I rotate the ring past this point or before this point the RPM sounds like it's rotating faster. The fact that rotating it behind this point seems to be be a faster rpm stumps me. Any info is appreciated!--Al
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:57 AM   #6928
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Default Broken sensor wire lead

Hi Steve, + others

I have a fairly new Novak 7.5 light and the orange sensor wire has just pulled out of the plug when i was taking it out of the speedy, and theres no way to get it re-attached.

I have another old novak motor which is broken, and i wondered if i can swap the rear endbell + its sensor lead over to the 7.5 to solve the problem. Can this be done? I took off the 3 screws from the rear endbell, and found that the black plastic cover comes off, but seems that the rest of it is attached firmly, including the sensor lead. Am i right in assuming that these parts can be removed?

Otherwise what are my options..? Apart from tossing in the bin, the only thing i can think of is to splice and solder a new plug onto the sensor wires...

I live in Aust so sending in for repairs is probably the same cost as buying a new 1...
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:58 AM   #6929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big al View Post
Hey guys!

I have a 13.5 with the orange ring and I am wondering what the timing range is. From what I can tell, there is maybe 7mm of rotation and I am wondering what this translates to in terms of degrees.

Also, I've come across something strange while rotating the orange ring. The point that I assume is factory set seems to be a bit slow. If I rotate the ring past this point or before this point the RPM sounds like it's rotating faster. The fact that rotating it behind this point seems to be be a faster rpm stumps me. Any info is appreciated!--Al
Al,

Sorry about the delay!

The motor should come pre-set with approximately 30 degrees of timing. It seems strange to me as well that when rotating the timing back to reduce the timing that the RPM seems to go faster. Is this without load or with some sort of load on the motor?

The total range of timing adjustment is about 20 degrees to 40 degrees, depending on the motor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSS Racing View Post
Hi Steve, + others

I have a fairly new Novak 7.5 light and the orange sensor wire has just pulled out of the plug when i was taking it out of the speedy, and theres no way to get it re-attached.

I have another old novak motor which is broken, and i wondered if i can swap the rear endbell + its sensor lead over to the 7.5 to solve the problem. Can this be done? I took off the 3 screws from the rear endbell, and found that the black plastic cover comes off, but seems that the rest of it is attached firmly, including the sensor lead. Am i right in assuming that these parts can be removed?

Otherwise what are my options..? Apart from tossing in the bin, the only thing i can think of is to splice and solder a new plug onto the sensor wires...

I live in Aust so sending in for repairs is probably the same cost as buying a new 1...
I would not really recommend trying to swap the endbells out as it requires a fair amount of soldering and if you overheat these particular parts they can be damaged rather easily. Not to mention the motor needs to be re-callibrated after this sort of event and all the proper equipment to do that is here!

I would try contacting our distributor in Australia, HEI, to see if they can offer you any sort of replacement options that will not cost you an arm and a leg in shipping.

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Old 07-14-2009, 09:11 AM   #6930
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SKUBA!
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