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Old 05-28-2009, 11:13 AM   #6886
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Hey Guys,

Sorry about the delay in getting your questions answered guys...been very busy around here!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
I suppose theres one thing i can try...

switching to a forward/brake only profile on it. I think it has one at least.

My trinity 17.5 duo and GTB SS in my E-Firestorm can stop on a dime (or is it the gear diff helping?) so i KNOW these things can have a good amount of brake power, even at higher gearings. hmmm....test test test! lol thanks, steve!


One more question. Im sure its been asked long ago...

but my brother is looking for a cheap brushless setup for his backup car. I pointed him at the RMF Super Sport Crawler Brushless ESC and an RMF 17.5ss motor (which totals to 112. Thats super good!). He wasnt sure if that speedo could run the motor. I remember looking at the turn limit on the product manual for that ESC (a manual i can no longer find online) and it said something like...well i dont remember... 10.5? Regardless, a 13.5 and 17.5 fit under the KV limit is all i remember. If used with that speedcontrol, will it switch to a regular profile for non-crawling applications to effecitvely work as a backup (or RCGT or 2nd class) racer for a guy on a budget?
Super Sport Crawler... It *should* work normally (IE, forward, brake, reverse) with a 10.5 turn motor... Although I would recommend looking into seeing if we have any RMF XBRs or something instead... they might be a few bucks more...but they are a much better ESC than the orginal super sport based controllers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Hi Steve,

I have a Novak 4.5r and its good. But lately the newer LRPs and Speedpassions seem to have higher rpms and significantly faster down the straights. Would you recommend I advance the timing on the motor? If so, what is the default timing and how much should I advance?

Thanks in advance.

Joel
The timing that we callibrate into the motors is generally around 25 true degrees of timing. The timing on most of the motors can be set up in the 35-40 degree range depending on the motor.

The timing can be a usefull tool when trying to change the power band or find gearing, but be warned: More timing results in more heating as well.

Also, what ESC are you using?

The GTB does not feature any sort of electronically advanced timing like most of the newest crop of ESCs do and this may be part of the reason you feel you are lacking straight line speed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
Hi Steve,

I was running my T4 with GTB SS w/lipo cutoff and Novak 17.5 and the car suddenly stopped. Not the stuttery type of stop like with the lipo cutoff, a dead stop. Steering servo still worked. When I took the car into the pits, I noticed the green and red lights flashing intermittently. Battery voltage was not close to cutoff, motor was about 120* and ESC was about 85*. I couldn't find this in the manual, so I turned it off, back on, and the car seemed fine for about a minute and it happened again. This time the motor was about 90*.

What do you think? Thanks!
Were the green and red LEDs alternating? The Green and Red LEDs flashing or alternating are indicators of LiPo Cut off being activated... what type of batteries are you using? (brand and C rating) Generally we recommend to use good name-brand batteries with C ratings of 25 or higher.
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Old 05-28-2009, 11:22 AM   #6887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Were the green and red LEDs alternating? The Green and Red LEDs flashing or alternating are indicators of LiPo Cut off being activated... what type of batteries are you using? (brand and C rating) Generally we recommend to use good name-brand batteries with C ratings of 25 or higher.
Yes, alternating. But the throttle didn't stutter like it normally does on lipo cutoff. Batteries used were Reedy 5000 and Orion 3200, both 20C. There was plenty of voltage left when I took both of them out.
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Old 05-28-2009, 11:34 AM   #6888
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What happens when you run low C batteries (under 25C in most applications) is that the battery cannot sustain voltage under load... this then drops the voltage below the cut off threshold and eventually results in a power shut down...even if there is capacity left in the battery.

The only way the ESC can tell that the capacity is getting low is by the voltage.
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Old 05-28-2009, 11:39 AM   #6889
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Yo Steve: have you seen any dead Cows latley
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Old 05-28-2009, 12:04 PM   #6890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
What happens when you run low C batteries (under 25C in most applications) is that the battery cannot sustain voltage under load... this then drops the voltage below the cut off threshold and eventually results in a power shut down...even if there is capacity left in the battery.

The only way the ESC can tell that the capacity is getting low is by the voltage.
Ok I will test using a 40C battery. In the meantime, some people think it might be a sensor wire issue. Could that be a possibility?
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:48 PM   #6891
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hi Steve,

thanks. any difference between advancing timing versus increasing pinion size to get higher speeds assuming both temp at 160F? could you post the pic again on how to increase timing on the motor? yes i use a GTB.

Thanks again.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:30 PM   #6892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC View Post
Yo Steve: have you seen any dead Cows latley
Only that one on the way back down from the warmup race!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
Ok I will test using a 40C battery. In the meantime, some people think it might be a sensor wire issue. Could that be a possibility?
It doesn't sound like a sensor wire issue to me... if it was a sensor wire the motor would run erratically all the time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
hi Steve,

thanks. any difference between advancing timing versus increasing pinion size to get higher speeds assuming both temp at 160F? could you post the pic again on how to increase timing on the motor? yes i use a GTB.

Thanks again.
Well, generally advancing the static motor timing reduces the motor's torque at most RPM and allows the motor to attain higher RPM. Generally more timing increases heating.

Gearing up effectively reduces the torque you get because you reduce the mechanical advantage that you gain on the drive train... I would experiment with both and see which works better for you!

I will look for those pictures and post them tomorrow!!
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Old 06-01-2009, 02:14 PM   #6893
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Default hey steve

do you know how to put the wires back into the switch box of a novak spy micro esc
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Old 06-01-2009, 02:33 PM   #6894
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Quote:
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do you know how to put the wires back into the switch box of a novak spy micro esc
\

If you look at the switch itself it *should* have two sets of tabs... each pair should be bent over and soldered to themselves.

One pair should get the black wire.

The other pair should get the red wire.
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Old 06-11-2009, 02:05 PM   #6895
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Steve, what is the timing on the 17.5s from the factory? Thanks.
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Old 06-11-2009, 04:02 PM   #6896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
Steve, what is the timing on the 17.5s from the factory? Thanks.
It's approximately 25 degrees of true timing.

The labels you see on many of the other motors out there are just contrived labeling and do not reflect true electrical timing.
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Old 06-11-2009, 04:07 PM   #6897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
It's approximately 25 degrees of true timing.

The labels you see on many of the other motors out there are just contrived labeling and do not reflect true electrical timing.
All of them are like that from the factory? Sounds like a lot. Thanks for the answers, Steve!
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Old 06-11-2009, 05:17 PM   #6898
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We actually use less timing than most of our competitors use... Like I said I am giving you REAL degrees of timing.
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Old 06-11-2009, 05:28 PM   #6899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
We actually use less timing than most of our competitors use... Like I said I am giving you REAL degrees of timing.
Thank you Steve!
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:42 PM   #6900
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Here ya go Steve........
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