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Old 05-11-2009, 01:22 AM   #6871
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:03 AM   #6872
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I have a setup question. what are some things you could try to get rid of a hook. I go around the corner and when I get on the gas the car just wants to spin the way I was just turned. It is not really loose. It just wants to keep going in a circle and not straighten up. This is on asphalt.
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:58 AM   #6873
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Steve,

I just got the Smart Boost for 1s and will be using it with a GTB 4 Cell SS. The question I have is that it states that you have the reciever switch in the off position and operate it off the Smart Boost switch. Can you just take the reciever power switch off the ESC instead? Just trying to clean up the wiring on my 12th scale. Thanks.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:23 AM   #6874
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Originally Posted by swimbikerun View Post
Steve,

I just got the Smart Boost for 1s and will be using it with a GTB 4 Cell SS. The question I have is that it states that you have the reciever switch in the off position and operate it off the Smart Boost switch. Can you just take the reciever power switch off the ESC instead? Just trying to clean up the wiring on my 12th scale. Thanks.

Jimmy WU!!!! Steve is my buddy and I am sure he'll be able to answer your questions soon. Have fun with that 12th scale! We're about to get a new carpet track here in SoCal, so next time you come out this way on business, be sure to bring your stuff to run.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:12 AM   #6875
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Hey Steve!

Have you guys encountered any kind of damage done to 13.5 (and other) motors from using large amounts of timing, like those in the Tekin RS and LRP SPX? I guess I don't mean heat damage, but something else? I'm finding that my motors are fading hard around 4:30 in a race, and my leading theory is that they were somehow damaged when I was experimenting with aggressive timing profiles (which I've since quit). They never got particularly hot, and the rotors still check out strong on a Zubak meter. I started a discussion on the topic here. I've seen a few other people mention similar observations in the past, and they too seemed to think it was timing related. Is there some kind of damage that could be done to affect performance beyond just heat? Thanks.
What's probably happening is the degredation of your rotors.

Heat is not the only rotor-killer. In fact if you were to only heat the rotor up it would still retain most of it's magnetic properties... it's when you heat it up and expose it to EM feilds that it most rapidly deteriorates the magnetic properties of the rotors.

I would see if changing the rotor in your motor helps...and if it doesn't then there's something else at play that I'm not 100% sure on.

I would think that the windings themselves are pretty hearty up to a certain temperature when then insulation on the wires tends to get broken down.

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Originally Posted by slashdriver View Post
Hey Steve, a follow up question.

What is the timing with the ring maxed out? What is the timing with the ring set to minimum? If you could indicate these values, it would help a lot..I could create a gauge of some sort to measure the actual timing setting.

I'm tinkering with a variable timing ESC and it would be *really* helpful to know the motor timing!!
Max timing is approximately 35-40*... minimum timing is approximately 15*.... and this will generally vary by motor/rotor.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:24 AM   #6876
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Originally Posted by xraysteve View Post
I have a setup question. what are some things you could try to get rid of a hook. I go around the corner and when I get on the gas the car just wants to spin the way I was just turned. It is not really loose. It just wants to keep going in a circle and not straighten up. This is on asphalt.
If you can give me a little more information on your current setup that will give me something to look at ...but generally the first few things that come to mind is to ensure that you have enough toe in in the rear and enough rear droop.

I usually almost always run 3 degrees of rear toe.. if you are running 2 or less this might be your problem... hard to say without really knowing the particulars of your setup and track though.

Also, make sure that you have enough droop too.... Generally with a 5 or 5.5 mm ride height I run 4.5 or 5 on the droop guage in the rear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by swimbikerun View Post
Steve,

I just got the Smart Boost for 1s and will be using it with a GTB 4 Cell SS. The question I have is that it states that you have the reciever switch in the off position and operate it off the Smart Boost switch. Can you just take the reciever power switch off the ESC instead? Just trying to clean up the wiring on my 12th scale. Thanks.
It depends on the version of GTB you have honestly...we have made some running changes to the GTB that include some software that prevents errant voltage from making its way into the ESC while it's off... if you have one of these ESCs to use it with the smart boost you will need the switch to just briefly switch it on then off to ensure that power from the smart boost can get into the ESC.

I would test it out first before you go removing too much stuff
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:22 AM   #6877
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I am running diffs front and rear. The rear diff is not too tight. I have softened up the rear a lot. 5mm ride high and 3mm over ride high in the front and 4mm over the rear droop. I am running 17lbs springs in the front and 14lbs in the rear. It seems like the rear is to soft or not rebounding enough. Like the car rolls over in the corner and the front levels out and the rear is still leaning. Does that make any sense
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Old 05-14-2009, 07:21 PM   #6878
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Jimmy WU!!!! Steve is my buddy and I am sure he'll be able to answer your questions soon. Have fun with that 12th scale! We're about to get a new carpet track here in SoCal, so next time you come out this way on business, be sure to bring your stuff to run.
Mr. Filipow, actually I'll be out in SoCal the first week in June but only for a few days for family related stuff. Let me know if you head back to Indy this summer since it's a short drive to the 'Nati.

Steve, thanks for the heads up on the GTB...I'll play around with it in the next few days.
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:38 PM   #6879
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Sorry about the delay!

It could be that you have a really soft spring and lots of droop in the rear... I would try to stiffen it up in the rear a bit...reduce the droop... also make sure your front diff is relatively tight... definately tighter than the rear diff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xraysteve View Post
I am running diffs front and rear. The rear diff is not too tight. I have softened up the rear a lot. 5mm ride high and 3mm over ride high in the front and 4mm over the rear droop. I am running 17lbs springs in the front and 14lbs in the rear. It seems like the rear is to soft or not rebounding enough. Like the car rolls over in the corner and the front levels out and the rear is still leaning. Does that make any sense
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:37 PM   #6880
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So XBR + Orion 17.5 (and a Losi 17.5 was also used and so was a novak 13.5ss). The braking was weak across all those motors and i dont remember what profile the XBR is on but i ran it brushed for about a year and just relied on its auto-switching, so wired up a BL motor again and it switched automatically as it should. Didnt really need brake with the brushed motor so i couldnt tell ya if it was strong or not but its been weak with all BL motors ive used on it. I can still sometimes use the reverse so i know its not on a foward/brake only profile. Is this maybe part of the problem? what can i change to maybe make the brakes work better?
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:50 AM   #6881
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Lower power motors just don't seem to brake as well...

My Mamba 5700s will flip my Clodbuster, very easilly with full brakes...

But on the carpet at the indoor track, my E-Jato with my GTB/LRP 13.5 couldn't even lock up the wheels.
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Old 05-15-2009, 08:57 AM   #6882
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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
So XBR + Orion 17.5 (and a Losi 17.5 was also used and so was a novak 13.5ss). The braking was weak across all those motors and i dont remember what profile the XBR is on but i ran it brushed for about a year and just relied on its auto-switching, so wired up a BL motor again and it switched automatically as it should. Didnt really need brake with the brushed motor so i couldnt tell ya if it was strong or not but its been weak with all BL motors ive used on it. I can still sometimes use the reverse so i know its not on a foward/brake only profile. Is this maybe part of the problem? what can i change to maybe make the brakes work better?
Hey Syber,

People sometimes complain about their brake performance with their spec wind motors.. and I feel that most of the time it is a symptom of the really tall gearing that is necessary to compete with in these classes.

Unfortunately except for the minimum brake value which can be changed on the XBR, that is the only adjustment that can be made on that ESC related to the application of the brakes.

Using a higher minimum brake value may make the brakes more aggressive...but generally will not increase the brake strength.

The Havoc has a brake frequency adjustment, which tends to be more effective in tuning the aggressiveness and strength of the brakes.
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Old 05-19-2009, 02:10 AM   #6883
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I suppose theres one thing i can try...

switching to a forward/brake only profile on it. I think it has one at least.

My trinity 17.5 duo and GTB SS in my E-Firestorm can stop on a dime (or is it the gear diff helping?) so i KNOW these things can have a good amount of brake power, even at higher gearings. hmmm....test test test! lol thanks, steve!


One more question. Im sure its been asked long ago...

but my brother is looking for a cheap brushless setup for his backup car. I pointed him at the RMF Super Sport Crawler Brushless ESC and an RMF 17.5ss motor (which totals to 112. Thats super good!). He wasnt sure if that speedo could run the motor. I remember looking at the turn limit on the product manual for that ESC (a manual i can no longer find online) and it said something like...well i dont remember... 10.5? Regardless, a 13.5 and 17.5 fit under the KV limit is all i remember. If used with that speedcontrol, will it switch to a regular profile for non-crawling applications to effecitvely work as a backup (or RCGT or 2nd class) racer for a guy on a budget?

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Old 05-23-2009, 04:56 PM   #6884
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Hi Steve,

I have a Novak 4.5r and its good. But lately the newer LRPs and Speedpassions seem to have higher rpms and significantly faster down the straights. Would you recommend I advance the timing on the motor? If so, what is the default timing and how much should I advance?

Thanks in advance.

Joel
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:40 AM   #6885
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Hi Steve,

I was running my T4 with GTB SS w/lipo cutoff and Novak 17.5 and the car suddenly stopped. Not the stuttery type of stop like with the lipo cutoff, a dead stop. Steering servo still worked. When I took the car into the pits, I noticed the green and red lights flashing intermittently. Battery voltage was not close to cutoff, motor was about 120* and ESC was about 85*. I couldn't find this in the manual, so I turned it off, back on, and the car seemed fine for about a minute and it happened again. This time the motor was about 90*.

What do you think? Thanks!
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