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Old 02-24-2009, 02:37 PM   #6781
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Hi Steve,

I'll be making a jump from 13.5 to mod this spring season at our local track. What do you recommend for lipo batteries when running a 4.5 novak bl?
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:03 PM   #6782
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I've been running SMC lipos and am very happy with them.

They're always coming out with something new, but I would think that anything that they have that's 28C or above should be great for mod sedan racing.

I have been running running the lower profile batteries to ensure that they'd fit under my topdeck easily... I've run their 24C 4000's in mod and been fine with them.
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:31 PM   #6783
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Hi Steve, haveing some issues with a mongoose esc and hoping you can shed some light. I've only done the one-touch programing but that seems to work fine. But when I pull the trigger the motor will run for three/four seconds then the motor cuts out and spins real slow for a second or two. Then it'll pick up and run normal for another three/four seconds. It repeats this cycle three or four times and then shuts down with the red and green lights blinking. I've tried three different motors(different winds and different brands) all do the same thing According to the instructions this is a possible locked rotor detection. The only way to reset is to turn off and on the power switch. I've also tried with the motor turnning the gears and with no pinion just the shaft spinning. I am useing a regular 540 motor not a 380, I don't have a 380 or I'd try it and see it it still happens.

Thanks
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Old 02-24-2009, 04:55 PM   #6784
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Hey Steve

What was the track like at the Czech Masters? Is there anything differrent about that event that you would like to make note of?
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Old 02-24-2009, 05:16 PM   #6785
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It sounds like the lipo cut off kicking in to me... are you using lipo batteries or NiMH cells? The ESC defaults to lipo cut off ON...so if you're not using lipo cells I'd turn that off and I think that'll solve your problem.

The Greend and Red LEDs toggling back and forth is the indicator that the lipo cut off has been activated!

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Hi Steve, haveing some issues with a mongoose esc and hoping you can shed some light. I've only done the one-touch programing but that seems to work fine. But when I pull the trigger the motor will run for three/four seconds then the motor cuts out and spins real slow for a second or two. Then it'll pick up and run normal for another three/four seconds. It repeats this cycle three or four times and then shuts down with the red and green lights blinking. I've tried three different motors(different winds and different brands) all do the same thing According to the instructions this is a possible locked rotor detection. The only way to reset is to turn off and on the power switch. I've also tried with the motor turnning the gears and with no pinion just the shaft spinning. I am useing a regular 540 motor not a 380, I don't have a 380 or I'd try it and see it it still happens.

Thanks
Chris

Hey Snoopy,

Wish I could tell you... I think you've got me mixed up with the German Steven Weiss

Don't feel bad though... it happens from time to time!


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Hey Steve

What was the track like at the Czech Masters? Is there anything differrent about that event that you would like to make note of?
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:06 PM   #6786
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Thanks Steve, you were right on the money, its great customer service like this that keeps me running orange. I have one "other" brand that I've been haveing issues with and the customer service there is terrible.
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:24 PM   #6787
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Hi Steve,

I have a Spread Spektrum GTB and it keeps getting rotor lock ( the motors still spin freely though) , i have tried 3 different motors and keep getting the same result. I read on the internet that one of the "phases" might not be working to cause this? I have more than 1 GTB and i was thinking of using it for brushed, would this problem stop if i set up the speedy for brushed motors? I'm also thinking of sending it back for repair. Thanks in advance
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Old 02-24-2009, 07:07 PM   #6788
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Hi Steve ;

Thanks for your reply via email. I just wanted to post the question here to see whether others have experienced what I have.

My GTB thermalled twice using another motor brand 13.5T. Now one of my friends says it's all downhill once a GTB thermals. The motor was overgeared at that time

1. Is this true?

2. The esc smells like the adhesive from a bandage tape. Is it possible to visually check for any fried fets under the heatsink? Is the smell any indication of a fried component?

Thanks as usual.
Ralph Vaggas
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Old 02-25-2009, 01:51 AM   #6789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
I've been running SMC lipos and am very happy with them.

They're always coming out with something new, but I would think that anything that they have that's 28C or above should be great for mod sedan racing.

I have been running running the lower profile batteries to ensure that they'd fit under my topdeck easily... I've run their 24C 4000's in mod and been fine with them.
Thanks for your time and input.
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:24 AM   #6790
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i have a situation where i switched the rec in my car. everything is plugged in. when i turn on the switch, the red & green light light up on the side of the speedo. the steering works but no throttle. when i try to reset the speed control to the radio and push the button on the switch, the lights goto light blue and start going thru a sequence of all the colors. what does this mean? i dont think it has the cutoff but im not sure. is there a way to tell if it does? thanks.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:17 AM   #6791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydave View Post
Hi Steve,

I have a Spread Spektrum GTB and it keeps getting rotor lock ( the motors still spin freely though) , i have tried 3 different motors and keep getting the same result. I read on the internet that one of the "phases" might not be working to cause this? I have more than 1 GTB and i was thinking of using it for brushed, would this problem stop if i set up the speedy for brushed motors? I'm also thinking of sending it back for repair. Thanks in advance
It's possible that one of power phases in the ESC is not working properly with this sort of behavior.

Setting it up for brushed motors will not "Fix" the problem is there are bad transistors... it will just sort of cover it up because in brushed mode more transistors are used for the motor drive function and it will be unlikely that you could detect the lack of performance.

Either situation however will probably result in an eventual total unit failure if you continue to run it indefinately.

Have you gone to different batteries lately by chance? Are you sure that the motor sensor harnesses are plugged in properly to the ESC?

If you're sure of the batteries and connections, it is a good idea to send it in for service.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rough512 View Post
Hi Steve ;

Thanks for your reply via email. I just wanted to post the question here to see whether others have experienced what I have.

My GTB thermalled twice using another motor brand 13.5T. Now one of my friends says it's all downhill once a GTB thermals. The motor was overgeared at that time

1. Is this true?

2. The esc smells like the adhesive from a bandage tape. Is it possible to visually check for any fried fets under the heatsink? Is the smell any indication of a fried component?

Thanks as usual.
Ralph Vaggas
Ralph,

I think I remember the email but I don't recall exactly what I recommended to you... but this is what comes to mind:

If you have overgeared a motor and it caused a motor failure, it is likely that the shorted motor could damage the ESC as well.

The thermal shut off function is in the ESC to try to protect it from being damaged so that you CAN run it even after it's been thermaled.

There are situations however where the damage occurs too fast for the thermal shutdown software to work, such as in the case of severe motor overgearing or if shorting to a motor occurs.

If you suspect that your ESC is damaged I would recommend you send it in to us for inspection instead of trying to carry it out yourself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buffalobill989 View Post
i have a situation where i switched the rec in my car. everything is plugged in. when i turn on the switch, the red & green light light up on the side of the speedo. the steering works but no throttle. when i try to reset the speed control to the radio and push the button on the switch, the lights goto light blue and start going thru a sequence of all the colors. what does this mean? i dont think it has the cutoff but im not sure. is there a way to tell if it does? thanks.
Are you sure that you have the ESC plugged into the correct channel on the new receiver?

Be sure that the plug is connected correctly as well... usually this means having the black receiver plug wire facing the outside of the receiver.

The solid red and green LEDs are an indicator that the ESC is not getting any signal and this is usually a simple connection error.

To reset the ESC you need to turn it off, then press and hold the button down, then turn it back on while holding the button.

Pressing and holding the button down while the ESC is still on will result in you going into profile programming like you described.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:31 AM   #6792
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thanks alot steve. i will double check my connections when i get home.
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:15 PM   #6793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Heimdal,

Sorry about the email problems!

Your Super Sport ESC shouldn't have any problems running the 17.5 pro motor!



Nunga,

Have you tried another motor with your ESC? The reason I ask is because It would help narrow down whether the problem is with the ESC or the motor itself!

Double check the sensor harness and make sure it's fully plugged into the ESC.

Also make sure that the motor phase wires are wired in correctly and not shorted out by mistake.
Hi Steve, back again, I finally tried another motor and it is the same problem, the original motor works ok on another esc. what next? my origional post was 6/10/08
Thanks
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Old 02-26-2009, 09:14 PM   #6794
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Sounds like the problem is in the ESC then.

Fill out the applicable warranty service form and send it in along with your ESC for inspection and replacement!

Quote:
Originally Posted by nunga View Post
Hi Steve, back again, I finally tried another motor and it is the same problem, the original motor works ok on another esc. what next? my origional post was 6/10/08
Thanks
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Old 02-27-2009, 03:30 AM   #6795
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hi steve,

I have been tearing my hair out over a problem with one of my xxx-s's.I know it's it old car but you might remember. The belt wanders Towards the tension arm when going forward and stripping the belt, in reverse it goes hard up against the spur. It seems to me their is a obvious simple answer. I just don't know it.

Things i have tried: turning around diffs, didn't work. checked tension arm assembly, all correct.(old tension arm)

Can't figure it out but i am sure i'm not the first. please help.

chris

(P.S. the 7.5 in my XBR runs fine and cool, about 48-50 C after 6 min 88spur 21 pinion.)
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