R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-02-2008, 08:58 AM   #6451
Tech Champion
 
STLNLST's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 8,997
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Steve,

Please help settle a disagreement. The person who owns the GTB in the attached picture is CONVINCED it has LiPo cutoff circuitry. The picture, according to what you and others have shown and described, seems to pretty clearly show a lack of that circuitry.

What say ye?

Thanks,

Scottrik
I'm no expert but I believe that the remote in the center needs some batteries.....LOL Steve should be along shortly to answer your question.
STLNLST is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2008, 09:47 AM   #6452
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by miccal View Post
I was careful when I took off the end bell with regards to the shims, but there weren't any shims in there. What side of the rotor are the shims usually put, towards toe front end bell or towards the rear end bell? I actually did not remove the rotor at all, so I don't think any of the sensors would be damaged from that. Should I put some shims in there to reduce the endplay and try it again? Could the slight movement of the rear end bell done something, or may be I have messed up the timing?

Would the rotor play cause the clicking noise at full revs?
Miccal,

I don't think the rotor play would cause clicking noise at full revs... either something inside the motor (like a loose shim or something) or a bad bearing could cause it.

I would check the both the front and back bearings for smooth operation, and also take a look inside the motor to make sure there's no debris floating around somehow.

Also, make sure the back endbell is fully screwed down... if it is loose I could see it causing a "clicking" sound.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yeahyeah View Post
Steve,


Which mode should I use on the GTB (original speedy) to get MAX braking effect.
I run on asphalt using a 13.5 pro motor.
For some reason it appears to have very little braking.
I set my transmitter throttle rate to neutral before I setup my speedy .
Am I doing something wrong cos I had the same issue when I ran the 5800 motor -poor braking also. When I test the braking with the car off the ground it appears to work ok but on the track it takes ages to slow to a stop its almost like anti locking brakes have been applied.

Does the capacitor on the speedy need to be checked or replaced - if the capacitor is used to help in breaking?

If I program in some drag brake will that increase the "Total breaking effect"
Yeahyeah,

The GTB comes factory set to give "full breaking force" at full brake. If you are not getting full brakes it might be a result of some other issue. I know that brakes can feel rather reduced in the "spec" classes alot of the time due to the rather high gear ratio that is used.

Also, if the motor is well used the rotor might be weaker than it was before, resulting in weaker brakes.

The capacitor shouldn't really play a big part in braking, but it's never a bad idea to replace the cap if you have reason to believe it might be bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mok View Post
Hi Steve,

I have noted what I consider to be a fault in the Smart Tray SE version and would greatly appreciate your input.

There are actually 2 issues, but both appear to be related...

1. Voltage Hold mode - after extended periods of having a pack in the voltage hold mode (set to 0.9v cutoff, havent used others) this function appears to "crash" resulting in the display showing "0." only (ie. the 2nd digit disappears) and the tray appears to stop checking the voltage of the cell and drops them down to 0.0v. This happened twice somewhere in the 1-2hr time frame.

2. Normal discharge mode - setting the cutoff voltage to 0.9v and discharging a pack normally works fine. However, I have noticed that on some occasions where I have restarted the discharge mode manually by pressing the button within a short time frame of the last cell reaching the cutoff voltage, that the display flickers and changes to show "9" only (ie. the first digit and decimal point disappear). It should also be noted that when in this mode, the cells appear to be discharged down to 0.0v like in issue # 1.

Issue 2 seems to be able to be replicated by starting the equalize/discharge mode quickly a number of times in a row. Issue 1 has happened twice out of the 4 or 5 times I've used this mode.

Any ideas here Steve?

-Mark
Mark,

I will try to take some time to look into these issues for you today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jOn-jOn ZENOA View Post
Dear steve,

Hi sir! Im from the philippines, im using novak xbr brushless motor 8.5 sir. What is the right fdr for my xray t2 07? Im using this for drifting sir... Can you help me sir so i can put the right fdr for my xray. Thank you very much sir.
We recommend a 7.5 FDR with the EX 8.5 motor.... for drifting you might want to gear a little lower ... in the 8.0- 8.5 range. Hope this helps!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
Steve,

Please help settle a disagreement. The person who owns the GTB in the attached picture is CONVINCED it has LiPo cutoff circuitry. The picture, according to what you and others have shown and described, seems to pretty clearly show a lack of that circuitry.

What say ye?

Thanks,

Scottrik
Scottrik,

That ESC does not look to have the LiPo Cut off Circuitry.
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2008, 01:24 PM   #6453
Tech Fanatic
 
tpczx6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Fremont CA
Posts: 846
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I would like to say Thanks to Steve for taking care of my 4 cel gtb ESC at the IIc race last weekend. Steve took a quick look at it when all 4 lights came on when 1st turned on and he gave me a new one so I could get back on track and will look in to repairs latter on the other ESC

SO THANKS Steve

Tim C
__________________
RcAmerica--Xray---Hudy----KO PROPO USA---ORCA---GRAVITY RC
Motiv------Apexrc----- AVID
SWEEP Racing USA
Mike's Hobbyshop in Dallas (RIP)
Nor-Cal Hobbies [The Race Place]
tpczx6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2008, 01:51 PM   #6454
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

Hi Mark,

I did some testing with a tray I have here and didn't find any problems resembling the ones you have described.

I left a battery in the tray set at 0.9V in the hold mode and it has been sitting there holding for a few hours now and there was no "hang up".

I then took the pack and reset the tray to normal 0.9V cut off and tried pressing the on/off button in quick succession like you mention and never was able to get the tray to hang up there either.

Are you running the smart tray off of the wall adaptor or straight from a 12V power supply?

If this is occuring at the track it might be that the line voltage is fluctuating a bit and could be what is causing the issue you are seeing. I would recommend trying some "cleaner" power and see if this effects your outcome at all.

As always though, there could be a minor problem with your particular tray, and you should feel free to send it in to us so that we can evaluate it for you.

Hope this helps!





Quote:
Originally Posted by mok View Post
Hi Steve,

I have noted what I consider to be a fault in the Smart Tray SE version and would greatly appreciate your input.

There are actually 2 issues, but both appear to be related...

1. Voltage Hold mode - after extended periods of having a pack in the voltage hold mode (set to 0.9v cutoff, havent used others) this function appears to "crash" resulting in the display showing "0." only (ie. the 2nd digit disappears) and the tray appears to stop checking the voltage of the cell and drops them down to 0.0v. This happened twice somewhere in the 1-2hr time frame.

2. Normal discharge mode - setting the cutoff voltage to 0.9v and discharging a pack normally works fine. However, I have noticed that on some occasions where I have restarted the discharge mode manually by pressing the button within a short time frame of the last cell reaching the cutoff voltage, that the display flickers and changes to show "9" only (ie. the first digit and decimal point disappear). It should also be noted that when in this mode, the cells appear to be discharged down to 0.0v like in issue # 1.

Issue 2 seems to be able to be replicated by starting the equalize/discharge mode quickly a number of times in a row. Issue 1 has happened twice out of the 4 or 5 times I've used this mode.

Any ideas here Steve?

-Mark
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2008, 02:09 PM   #6455
Tech Champion
 
lbckevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,528
Trader Rating: 91 (99%+)
Default

Steve,

When are you gonna come out to OCRC to race offroad again...? I know you can wheel an offroad buggy....

PS....Had a Jerry Lamb sighting two weeks ago...
__________________
Kevin Smith
Hobbywing * Pro-Line * MIP * Paint Monster
lbckevin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2008, 02:12 PM   #6456
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

Haha I might get the 4wd car back up and running again soon... especially if there have been some Jerry Lamb sightings!
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2008, 04:38 PM   #6457
Tech Champion
 
Scottrik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 6,212
Trader Rating: 245 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Scottrik,

That ESC does not look to have the LiPo Cut off Circuitry.
As I thought.

Thank you oh Weiss one.
__________________
Congressmen should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we can identify their corporate sponsors.

THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED -Gil Scott-Heron (1949-2011)
Scottrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 04:28 AM   #6458
Tech Addict
 
jdearhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Darlington, SC
Posts: 565
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I've got one for you Steve (or anyone else who might be able to help.)

I bought a 21.5 SSPro, and the first weekend on the track the magnet came loose on the rotor. It just spins on the shaft, and you can pull it completely apart. Its just been sitting in my box waiting to be sent back. Well, a buddy is sending his GTB back, so I was going to throw the rotor in with it, until he checked it. It turns out to be a very good rotor. So, my question is what can I glue the rotor back to the shaft with?
jdearhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 09:37 AM   #6459
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

Some people have used green "sleeve retainer" loctite on their rotors to good effect!

Good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdearhart View Post
I've got one for you Steve (or anyone else who might be able to help.)

I bought a 21.5 SSPro, and the first weekend on the track the magnet came loose on the rotor. It just spins on the shaft, and you can pull it completely apart. Its just been sitting in my box waiting to be sent back. Well, a buddy is sending his GTB back, so I was going to throw the rotor in with it, until he checked it. It turns out to be a very good rotor. So, my question is what can I glue the rotor back to the shaft with?
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 10:12 AM   #6460
Tech Addict
 
jdearhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Darlington, SC
Posts: 565
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Steve!
jdearhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 03:21 PM   #6461
Tech Elite
 
vazzo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Brisbane, QLD
Posts: 2,719
Trader Rating: 100 (100%+)
Default

Hi Steve

I bought a 17.5 from a US store and Im located in Australia.

I believe the motor is faulty as it thermals towards the 5 minute mark every race and Ive only just installed it, the gearing is as per the online Novak gear chart and I geared it down as well just to make sure it wasnt the gearing and it still thermalled.

I guess the point of this message is to see how I should send it back for repair or replacement, do I go directly to Novak or through the US hobby store?

Cheers
Adrian
__________________
Gone riding, cya.........
vazzo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 04:05 PM   #6462
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

Adrian,

We like to deal directly with the customers so that there aren't any breakdowns in communication!

As far as your problem is concerned, do you have other locals running our motor down there as well that you can get gearing information off of? We try to lend fairly conservative gearing information out... but if your track is rather large the gearing may be off... and a motor running at top RPM most of the time around the track can create nearly as much heat as an over-geared one!

I would recommend to check to make sure that there are no obvious shorts between power phases on the motor, make sure that the bearings are free, and maybe go as far as checking to swapping out your rotor with a new one.

If none of this helps we will be more than happy to work with you on you sending your motor back into us for evaluation and replacement!

Hope this helps!



Quote:
Originally Posted by vazzo View Post
Hi Steve

I bought a 17.5 from a US store and Im located in Australia.

I believe the motor is faulty as it thermals towards the 5 minute mark every race and Ive only just installed it, the gearing is as per the online Novak gear chart and I geared it down as well just to make sure it wasnt the gearing and it still thermalled.

I guess the point of this message is to see how I should send it back for repair or replacement, do I go directly to Novak or through the US hobby store?

Cheers
Adrian
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2008, 10:57 AM   #6463
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default HAVOC

New system released yesterday! Enjoy!

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...ort/index.html
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2008, 12:05 PM   #6464
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Milwaukee Wi
Posts: 559
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Steve whats the difference between the havoc and the GTB , XBR systems
Could this be run with XXXt or we better of with running a Gtb
set-up.

Dynodan22
dynodan22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2008, 12:44 PM   #6465
The Evicerator
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 4,142
Default

Dan,

The GTB is still a more powerful speedconrol than either the XBR or the Havoc.

The Havoc is more of an entry level system with a lower price point that still has great quality. The Havoc System will come equiped with an 8.5 motor and will be capable of running any of our motors slower than the 8.5... so 10.5, 13.5, 17.5, etc will run well on the Havoc.
__________________
Steve Weiss
TEAM ASSOCIATED -- REEDY -- SANWA -- PROTOFORM -- 1UP Racing -- ActivRC -- P1 BRAND -- TEAM KINWALD -- TEAM STEVE INTERNATIONAL
Steve Weiss is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
STUFF FOR SALE """"LQQK """" EZRC R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 03-13-2007 07:20 PM
"""NEW""" Collari .21 3 port buggy motor lc21-b3 goneRVing R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 12-20-2006 06:25 PM
STUFF FOR SALE """"LQQK """" EZRC R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 11 10-22-2006 09:49 PM
""" XRAY FK05 """ excellent cond/super clean/stock evostyle R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 06-29-2006 10:04 PM
Let's send Steve Weiss (Evicerator) to Cleveland!!! TeamButter Electric On-Road 8 11-02-2004 11:32 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:21 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net