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Old 08-24-2008, 08:53 PM   #6436
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Edwintklee,

The smart stop should start "blipping" and cut off at 6.25 volts.

The only real way for you to check it would be to have a variable voltage power supply that you could start out at a "high" level (around 7V) and then slowly reduce the voltage to the system to the 6.0 V range and make note of when the cut off interrupts the throttle response.
thanks steve, cool products.....
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:01 PM   #6437
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Are the two LEDs flashing together or toggling...?


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Hey Steve
I have my gtb cell in my 1/12 scale and after about 1 min of running the motor stops running I have stearing but no power to motor. I look at the esc and the amber and red led are flashing. If I turn off the car and switch back on its works again for about 2 min again then same thing. I have reset it and found it has switch from program 4 back to program 1 again. I reset it to 4 and car shut down again after 1 min and it reset to program 1 again. let me know if you have had that issue before??

Tim
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Old 08-26-2008, 03:32 PM   #6438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Edwintklee,

The smart stop should start "blipping" and cut off at 6.25 volts.

The only real way for you to check it would be to have a variable voltage power supply that you could start out at a "high" level (around 7V) and then slowly reduce the voltage to the system to the 6.0 V range and make note of when the cut off interrupts the throttle response.
Couldn't you test it simply by running a 6-cell NiCd or NiMh pack? Your car should run awhile, then the cut-off should interrupt the throttle. If the car dumps, the cut-off didn't work. At least it seems so.
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Old 08-26-2008, 03:43 PM   #6439
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I have a request Steve. I recently sent in a Gtb Esc for a non warranty claim to be replaced. This was a GTB that was 2 months past the warranty period. What I like to know is what caused it to fail. I followed the recommended FDR on the Novak web page and only used this Esc for racing once a week 3 races a night. It would be nice if Novak would tell me what caused the failure or probable causes that can make the failure happen. This would help me in the future on things to watch out for when using it .

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Old 08-26-2008, 06:21 PM   #6440
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Default GTB Motor Limits

Steve,

Why is it that the GTB only handles 8.5T brushless motors from other manufacturers, yet any Novak motor?
Are the motors radically different?

Kevin

Last edited by kavadni; 08-26-2008 at 06:22 PM. Reason: Corrected spelling
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:58 PM   #6441
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Stev-

if my right hand is dirty and I wash with soap will my left hand stay clean?
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Old 08-26-2008, 11:15 PM   #6442
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Is the new "drift-spec" motor a regular (or light?) wind motor with a 13mm rotor and different trim ring?
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:12 AM   #6443
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If the black jack dealer has a six showing, should I double down an 8?
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Old 08-31-2008, 02:14 AM   #6444
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Hello Steve

I have been running the Novak SS13.5 with the GTB since January and I am very happy with it. Since the rules have changes regarding 13.5's I just bought a brand new SS105. I had the velociti heat sink on my 13.5, which I removed and put some more heat transfer grease on it and tried to put it on the 10.5. It was a very tight fit towards the end, and while working it on the rear end bell started to move around very slightly. Once I had it on all the way I went to put on the front end bell the screws wouldn't go in all the way. Then I tried to get the heat sink off, and the actual magnet came out of the rear end bell a little bit. I had no choice but to cut off the heat sink carefully, and then I could put the motor back together. I then ran the motor and at full revs the motor sometimes make a loud clicking sound and the power falters. I have noticed that the rotor now has about 1 mm of play when I put the motor back together.

Have I wrecked the motor, and can you suggest anything I can do to fix it?
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Old 08-31-2008, 04:05 PM   #6445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dynodan22 View Post
I have a request Steve. I recently sent in a Gtb Esc for a non warranty claim to be replaced. This was a GTB that was 2 months past the warranty period. What I like to know is what caused it to fail. I followed the recommended FDR on the Novak web page and only used this Esc for racing once a week 3 races a night. It would be nice if Novak would tell me what caused the failure or probable causes that can make the failure happen. This would help me in the future on things to watch out for when using it .

Dynodan
Dynodan,

If you PM me your contact information, IE real name used to send in your equipment I can look into seeing what the inspection techs had to say about it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kavadni View Post
Steve,

Why is it that the GTB only handles 8.5T brushless motors from other manufacturers, yet any Novak motor?
Are the motors radically different?

Kevin
The other motors shouldn't really be radically different... it's just that most of the other motor manufacturers don't use a thermistor in their motor making the temperature sensing inoperable... motors faster than 8.5 turns have a tendancy to pull alot of current and the potential to heat up quite a bit.

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Originally Posted by cookie1 View Post
Stev-

if my right hand is dirty and I wash with soap will my left hand stay clean?
I suppose "clean" is a relative term

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkBrown View Post
Is the new "drift-spec" motor a regular (or light?) wind motor with a 13mm rotor and different trim ring?
Mark, the Drift spec motors are regular weight motors with 13 mm rotors.

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Originally Posted by HB Moose View Post
If the black jack dealer has a six showing, should I double down an 8?
I'm really not much of a gambler... I hear Barry Baker and Mike Blackstock might be able to help with that kind of question though!


Quote:
Originally Posted by miccal View Post
Hello Steve

I have been running the Novak SS13.5 with the GTB since January and I am very happy with it. Since the rules have changes regarding 13.5's I just bought a brand new SS105. I had the velociti heat sink on my 13.5, which I removed and put some more heat transfer grease on it and tried to put it on the 10.5. It was a very tight fit towards the end, and while working it on the rear end bell started to move around very slightly. Once I had it on all the way I went to put on the front end bell the screws wouldn't go in all the way. Then I tried to get the heat sink off, and the actual magnet came out of the rear end bell a little bit. I had no choice but to cut off the heat sink carefully, and then I could put the motor back together. I then ran the motor and at full revs the motor sometimes make a loud clicking sound and the power falters. I have noticed that the rotor now has about 1 mm of play when I put the motor back together.

Have I wrecked the motor, and can you suggest anything I can do to fix it?

miccal,

It's hard to say exactly what you might have done without seeing the motor but I suspect that you might have lost a shim on the motor shaft or something if now the motor has more endplay now. Also, if you were not careful with replacing the rotor in the motor the end of the rotor might have damaged a sensor. If the motor is still acting funny I would definately send it in to us to have us take a look at it!
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Old 08-31-2008, 06:15 PM   #6446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
miccal,

It's hard to say exactly what you might have done without seeing the motor but I suspect that you might have lost a shim on the motor shaft or something if now the motor has more endplay now. Also, if you were not careful with replacing the rotor in the motor the end of the rotor might have damaged a sensor. If the motor is still acting funny I would definately send it in to us to have us take a look at it!
I was careful when I took off the end bell with regards to the shims, but there weren't any shims in there. What side of the rotor are the shims usually put, towards toe front end bell or towards the rear end bell? I actually did not remove the rotor at all, so I don't think any of the sensors would be damaged from that. Should I put some shims in there to reduce the endplay and try it again? Could the slight movement of the rear end bell done something, or may be I have messed up the timing?

Would the rotor play cause the clicking noise at full revs?

Last edited by miccal; 08-31-2008 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 09-01-2008, 04:00 AM   #6447
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Default gtb

Steve,


Which mode should I use on the GTB (original speedy) to get MAX braking effect.
I run on asphalt using a 13.5 pro motor.
For some reason it appears to have very little braking.
I set my transmitter throttle rate to neutral before I setup my speedy .
Am I doing something wrong cos I had the same issue when I ran the 5800 motor -poor braking also. When I test the braking with the car off the ground it appears to work ok but on the track it takes ages to slow to a stop its almost like anti locking brakes have been applied.

Does the capacitor on the speedy need to be checked or replaced - if the capacitor is used to help in breaking?

If I program in some drag brake will that increase the "Total breaking effect"

Last edited by yeahyeah; 09-02-2008 at 04:01 AM.
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Old 09-01-2008, 06:37 AM   #6448
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Default Noval Smart Tray SE

Hi Steve,

I have noted what I consider to be a fault in the Smart Tray SE version and would greatly appreciate your input.

There are actually 2 issues, but both appear to be related...

1. Voltage Hold mode - after extended periods of having a pack in the voltage hold mode (set to 0.9v cutoff, havent used others) this function appears to "crash" resulting in the display showing "0." only (ie. the 2nd digit disappears) and the tray appears to stop checking the voltage of the cell and drops them down to 0.0v. This happened twice somewhere in the 1-2hr time frame.

2. Normal discharge mode - setting the cutoff voltage to 0.9v and discharging a pack normally works fine. However, I have noticed that on some occasions where I have restarted the discharge mode manually by pressing the button within a short time frame of the last cell reaching the cutoff voltage, that the display flickers and changes to show "9" only (ie. the first digit and decimal point disappear). It should also be noted that when in this mode, the cells appear to be discharged down to 0.0v like in issue # 1.

Issue 2 seems to be able to be replicated by starting the equalize/discharge mode quickly a number of times in a row. Issue 1 has happened twice out of the 4 or 5 times I've used this mode.

Any ideas here Steve?

-Mark
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:26 AM   #6449
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Default fdr for t2 xray

Dear steve,

Hi sir! Im from the philippines, im using novak xbr brushless motor 8.5 sir. What is the right fdr for my xray t2 07? Im using this for drifting sir... Can you help me sir so i can put the right fdr for my xray. Thank you very much sir.
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Old 09-01-2008, 10:11 PM   #6450
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Default GTB / LiPo cutoff

Steve,

Please help settle a disagreement. The person who owns the GTB in the attached picture is CONVINCED it has LiPo cutoff circuitry. The picture, according to what you and others have shown and described, seems to pretty clearly show a lack of that circuitry.

What say ye?

Thanks,

Scottrik
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Last edited by Scottrik; 09-28-2008 at 08:16 AM.
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