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Old 08-04-2008, 02:50 AM   #6391
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Steve,

Last night while testing my motor, it suddenly made a loud "BANG" sound and then the motor got jammed up. It wouldn't turn anymore. After further inspection, I found the rotor to have disintegrated in the motor. What caused this to happen? Also, since I am in Malaysia and did not buy it from a local hobby shop here, what is my next course of action. Can I send it back to the States for repair or servicing (no more warranty ). is It worth doing it...What is the procedure and charges?

Thanks!!
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:01 AM   #6392
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Hi Steve, what would be a good starting point gearing wise for a 6.5 and 7.5 at bending corner?
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:04 AM   #6393
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Big B,

It really comes down to what kind of temperatures you are seeing on your motor after a 5 minute run. We recommend to gear so that the hottest your motor gets is 160...

This doesn't mean that the motor NEEDS to be 160 to be running well... but it is just an upper limit.

From what I have observed, your gear ratio looks to be a bit low (too small a pinion) ... I would try gearing up a couple teeth to see if you can get any more of it ...but remember to keep track of the motor temps!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigb11 View Post
steve, I like that 17.5 so much, I got another one for my losi type-r. I am using 128 spur and a 44 pinion. does this sound about right?
Hi Vazzo,

Where were you taking the temperature on your motor? If you have an IR based temp probe and you are reading off the bare aluminum the temperature can be off by quite a bit.

You mentioned you have the XBR w/ the 17.5... does your motor still have the bonded rotor in it...?

If it does, I would recommend upgrading to the sintered rotor kit. If your club/rules do not allow for sintered rotors... I would look into seeing if you can find a new bonded rotor for yourself... The bonded rotors tend to run hotter over a run and run much hotter internally.

Hope this helps!


Quote:
Originally Posted by vazzo View Post
Gday Steve

I was running my XBR and 17.5 motor the other day and every race (4) I would thermal on the last lap. I checked the motor temp and it was only around the 45c mark, could it be my speedy thermalling? I was running an FDR of 3.4 which is a 58mm rollout and racing at night in the cold with an LRP 40mm fan strapped to it. I hadnt reset the speedy since changing motors either and my batteries werent dumping. I had initially thought LIPO cutoff but the battery voltage was fine after each race, the car just seemed to stop dead in its tracks. One of the marshalls did mention the speedy resetting itself as well. Hope you can help as I'm baffled.

Thanks
Adrian
Hi Birdman,

How exactly were you testing your motor? If you were spooling it up to full throttle without any sort of load on it that is a very bad thing!

These motors can reach very high RPMs and as such the rotors are put through tremendous stresses... I have a feeling this might be what has happened.

As far as your next course of action... You can try to remove all of the old magnet fragments from inside your motor...but usually this doesn't work too well.

Since you did not buy your motor through your disributor, I suspect you would have trouble going through them... So really you are only left with sending it in to us for replacement.

Replacement cost of a motor is $35... and I believe we charge an international fee of $15... + shipping and handling.

If you have more questions regarding sending your product in to us or getting the exact costs... I recommend emailing jackie with your information!

[email protected]



Quote:
Originally Posted by birdman View Post
Steve,

Last night while testing my motor, it suddenly made a loud "BANG" sound and then the motor got jammed up. It wouldn't turn anymore. After further inspection, I found the rotor to have disintegrated in the motor. What caused this to happen? Also, since I am in Malaysia and did not buy it from a local hobby shop here, what is my next course of action. Can I send it back to the States for repair or servicing (no more warranty ). is It worth doing it...What is the procedure and charges?

Thanks!!
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Old 08-04-2008, 10:52 AM   #6394
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Steve,

I have been looking at LIPO batteries to match up with my 17.5 that I use in on/off-road applications. I see that the 17.5 generates about 130 watts of power. I own a Orion 4800 @ 15c and am looking at the Orion 3800 @ 30c.

Will I see an appreciable difference in power with my motor with the 3800 or is the 4800 able to provide the maximum power that motor can draw?

Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide.

James
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:05 AM   #6395
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James,

I think that whenever you load the system up and pull alot of current that the 30C cells will definately handle this better and keep a higher and more consistant voltage than the 15C cells will.

This would probably manifest itself in a performance gain of some sort when comparing the two cells.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:44 AM   #6396
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James -

Just for reference. I just ran the Orion 3800 30C in a race yesterday with my Novak GTB and a 17.5 Novak. Previously I was running the Platinum 4800 20C from Orion. It was a night and day difference and it really woke up the power from start and even at top speed down the straight. I won't be going back to the Platinums at all for my TC.

Steve - loving the 17.5, previously ran the 13.5s and this stock motor takes plenty of gear and keeps cool (running a 3.74 I temp around 135 after a 5 minute run). I was eating guys up in the straights...thanks Novak!
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:50 AM   #6397
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Thanks for the input and keep up the good work!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Catalyst View Post
James -

Just for reference. I just ran the Orion 3800 30C in a race yesterday with my Novak GTB and a 17.5 Novak. Previously I was running the Platinum 4800 20C from Orion. It was a night and day difference and it really woke up the power from start and even at top speed down the straight. I won't be going back to the Platinums at all for my TC.

Steve - loving the 17.5, previously ran the 13.5s and this stock motor takes plenty of gear and keeps cool (running a 3.74 I temp around 135 after a 5 minute run). I was eating guys up in the straights...thanks Novak!
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:43 PM   #6398
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Steve/Catalyst,

Thanks for the info. What would you guesstimate that the amp draw would be using the 17.5 in on/off-road?

James
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Old 08-05-2008, 02:19 AM   #6399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Hi Vazzo,

Where were you taking the temperature on your motor? If you have an IR based temp probe and you are reading off the bare aluminum the temperature can be off by quite a bit.

You mentioned you have the XBR w/ the 17.5... does your motor still have the bonded rotor in it...?

If it does, I would recommend upgrading to the sintered rotor kit. If your club/rules do not allow for sintered rotors... I would look into seeing if you can find a new bonded rotor for yourself... The bonded rotors tend to run hotter over a run and run much hotter internally.

Hope this helps!
Hi Steve

Thanks for the info, I was running the 17.5 with sintered rotor and was reading off the purple band not the bare aluminium. How can you tell the motor has thermalled then? Does the arm become a lot easier to turn?

Thanks again
Adrian
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:47 AM   #6400
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Adrian,

One of the after-effects of a motor getting too hot is that the magnet will feel weakened... if you go too far this loss in magnetic strength will be permenant.

A weaker magnet = hotter motor.
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:38 AM   #6401
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STEVE TYPE!

See you at the track Saturday?
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:03 AM   #6402
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Indeed that is the plan J type!

Hope to see you there bright and early!
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:36 AM   #6403
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steve i just picked up a new gtb and 13.5ss for BCR... what do you think I should be running for gearing. I was thinking maybe 4.5 or around there?

Thanks.
Erik
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:12 PM   #6404
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Erik,

That sounds about right to me! Might want to try starting out at 4.75 or so just to be on the safe side...then gear up into the 4.5 range!
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:02 PM   #6405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Adrian,

One of the after-effects of a motor getting too hot is that the magnet will feel weakened... if you go too far this loss in magnetic strength will be permenant.

A weaker magnet = hotter motor.

Where should the Temp be taken ????

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