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Old 04-08-2008, 11:09 PM   #6061
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All the plugs should be compatible with one another!

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Originally Posted by roadkill View Post
I was looking at stormers site,at speedpassion 10.5 and it said the sensor end was the same as lrp,and I was not sure if novak ends were diff or the same.
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:10 PM   #6062
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I will think on it and see if anything else comes to mind!


Quote:
Originally Posted by wyl03 View Post
Steve,
it is with sintered rotor.
when the ESC lost power, the steering was the 1st thing i tested and it worked just fine.
puzzling.

i will double-check the harness but i still suspect it's something to do with the physical difference between a nimh pack and lipo pack on my car.
somewhere, somehow, something is coming into contact and creating glitch or interference.
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:55 AM   #6063
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steve,
i've attached some pictures, please see if they can help:

buggy layout without batts. You can see the lexan piece directly on the right side of the GTB:


with the offending IB4200. it's actually a saddle pack placed side by side in-line configuration.


with the trouble-free lipo
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:29 AM   #6064
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wyl,

It's hard to say what might be causing your problem with teh 4200 in particular... but here are some general observations I can give you:

1. Shorten all of your battery and motor wires to the point where they are just long enough for what you need.

It looks like there's tons of extra wire, especially on the battery leads... I understand they have to reach different spots for your different battery types... but all of those power wires being long like that act like antennas which can cause radio interference.

2. Secure your power capacitor down next to the ESC using some double sided tape or zip ties.... having caps loose like that eventually leads to damage to them... I saw that you have "padded it" ... but I would bet that extra padding insulates the cap and makes it heat up more than it probably should.

3. The kyosho car is difficult to get the ESC shoe horned in... but I have seen a few guys cut small notches in the outside edge of the chassis to allow for clearance of the "porch" so that that the ESC can sit flat in the car without fear of the battery terminals coming into contact with any battery bars or anything.

4. don't wrap anything around your antenna -- IE I see your personal transponder lead wrapped around it... even though you're running DSM stuff, this is never good.

5. Input harness- You want this isolated from any power wires...such as the battery, motor ... or capacitor wires... it looks like they are intwined with the cap wires... you would be doing yourself a favor by separating this... hard-mounting the cap to the chassis behind the ESC will help this.

6. Mystery blue wire -- looks like it goes from your reciever to the right hand battery post..? Is this your receiver antenna? If so just route it straight to your antenna mount/tube... where it is now it looks like it could get pinched off rather easily.

7. Battery pack solder joints -- I can't see anything in the picture, but double check to make sure all the solder joints are solid... if they can be broken by hand then more than likely this could be contributing to your problem.

8. Insulate the battery pack- If you've got a graphite composite chassis there is a chance the battery pack itself could be shorting out against the chassis... you might want to pick up some chassis tape and line the battery area with it in an effort to better insulate the pack from the chassis.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:14 AM   #6065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
wyl,


6. Mystery blue wire


Hey Steve, does novak sell replacement caps for the gtb?
Thanks,
Dennis V
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:33 AM   #6066
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Yes we do!

It's called the

Trans cap Module #5679

Quote:
Originally Posted by overflow View Post


Hey Steve, does novak sell replacement caps for the gtb?
Thanks,
Dennis V
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:31 PM   #6067
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Steve,
Thanks for that info on Timing a few post back.
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:49 PM   #6068
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thanks for the comprehensive feedback steve.
will certainly try them out this weekend.
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Old 04-13-2008, 09:49 PM   #6069
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Question:

Is there a specific way(s) to diagnose a bad capacitor?

I would like to know this information so that I can know when to replace my GTB's cap.

Cheers.
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Old 04-13-2008, 11:44 PM   #6070
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Art,

There are usually three things that I look for when thinking about replacing a cap.

1.) The cap is physically damaged...dented, distended, scraped up, etc

2.) If you touch your battery wires to a fully charged pack, then touch them together, there should be a pretty good little spark... if nothing occurs the cap may be dead.

3.) If you've had the cap for a long time or run it very hot you might as well just replace it


Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Vandelay View Post
Question:

Is there a specific way(s) to diagnose a bad capacitor?

I would like to know this information so that I can know when to replace my GTB's cap.

Cheers.
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Old 04-14-2008, 01:14 PM   #6071
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WOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOWOW. Thanks Steve. I just received my GTX back from Novak and it was quick with no hassle. These guys have the best customer service. This is the 4th time that they have taken care of my with no questions asked. Love the product. Keep up the good work.
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Old 04-15-2008, 04:08 AM   #6072
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Steve,
I'm just getting back into rc after 10 yrs and i'm attempting to learn all the new technology etc including brushless. I see there is a combo you can buy being a esc and motor, but its a bit out of my range at the moment. I wanted to buy a good brushless/brushed combo esc so i can run my older stock motors etc then update to a stock brushless down the track.... I just want to know what i have to buy to make all things work... I saw that there is a senor wire, what is that and what does it do?? I assume it plugs into the esc and onto the motor somehow?? are the different brands compatible with one another, ir use an lrp speed control with a novak motor and sensor??
sorry for the dorky q...
thanks
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:54 AM   #6073
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Most of the good brushless controllers that are out now will be able to run brushed and brushless motors... so you could "ease" your way into things by getting one of these types of ESCs.

Obviously I would recommend our GTB controller over the others.

As far as the sensor wire is concerned it is only used with brushless motors to aid in the electronic commutation that takes place in brushless motors. All of the sensored brushless motors/controllers that are available now use the same style of connector and connector sequence so they should all be compatible with one another.
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:22 AM   #6074
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I am running a GTB with a 10.5 in a TC5 with Lipo.

When I start my warm up lap the throttle will go dead when coming from a standing start for a split second but the steering will work, it will do this a couple time before the race starts. I have not notice this happening during the race. Any ideas what could be going on?
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Old 04-15-2008, 10:30 AM   #6075
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when is the Team Steve Special Stealth Ninja Edition GTB going to be Release.
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