Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
03-17-2008, 02:27 PM
#5986
Hi guys!
Sorry I haven't been around! I was at the ROAR nats and without consistant internet access!
If I miss anything please forgive me and ask again!
Spread Spectrum:
It should run cooler and some people have reported that the throttle response feels smoother
Remanufactured items:
All remanufactured items go through the same testing as new units and are outfitted with new wires/cases.
5A BEC/ Lipo Monitor:
It will work as a regulator but not a cut off... all the people we got input from didn't want it to interfere with the actual operation of the vehicle... really only as a regulator and a monitor... I guess the idea behind it is to look at the pack's status before you run and get it charged up as needed.
13.5 motor with LRP:
I really can't offer an explanation on why your motor went up in smoke... were you sure that the temps you were getting previously were legitimate? Sometimes a reading off the aluminum with an IR temp probe will read lower than the actual temperature?
Generally I only see that sort of thing if the motor is overheated... this can come from over-gearing... over-timing... over-running... Without having more information I really can't help you too much more...
Sorry I haven't been around! I was at the ROAR nats and without consistant internet access!
If I miss anything please forgive me and ask again!
Spread Spectrum:
It should run cooler and some people have reported that the throttle response feels smoother
Remanufactured items:
All remanufactured items go through the same testing as new units and are outfitted with new wires/cases.
5A BEC/ Lipo Monitor:
It will work as a regulator but not a cut off... all the people we got input from didn't want it to interfere with the actual operation of the vehicle... really only as a regulator and a monitor... I guess the idea behind it is to look at the pack's status before you run and get it charged up as needed.
13.5 motor with LRP:
I really can't offer an explanation on why your motor went up in smoke... were you sure that the temps you were getting previously were legitimate? Sometimes a reading off the aluminum with an IR temp probe will read lower than the actual temperature?
Generally I only see that sort of thing if the motor is overheated... this can come from over-gearing... over-timing... over-running... Without having more information I really can't help you too much more...
03-19-2008, 02:48 AM
#5987
13.5 motor with LRP:
I really can't offer an explanation on why your motor went up in smoke... were you sure that the temps you were getting previously were legitimate? Sometimes a reading off the aluminum with an IR temp probe will read lower than the actual temperature?
Generally I only see that sort of thing if the motor is overheated... this can come from over-gearing... over-timing... over-running... Without having more information I really can't help you too much more...
Regards
03-19-2008, 11:27 AM
#5988
Hey your Steve-ness,
I'm trying to change the throttle profile on my Rooster Crawler Edition esc to #2 to take advantage of the LiPo cutoff feature. Following the instructions I'm holding the one-touch button down as I turn on the power switch. After a second or two the red LED comes on steady (where if I released I'd be able to marry my transmitter to the esc) but the second LED I'm supposed to be waiting for never lights up. Both LED's give one quick flash when I initially turn on power so I know the green LED works, but it never lights to indicate the ESC is in throttle profile selection mode.
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Scottrik
I'm trying to change the throttle profile on my Rooster Crawler Edition esc to #2 to take advantage of the LiPo cutoff feature. Following the instructions I'm holding the one-touch button down as I turn on the power switch. After a second or two the red LED comes on steady (where if I released I'd be able to marry my transmitter to the esc) but the second LED I'm supposed to be waiting for never lights up. Both LED's give one quick flash when I initially turn on power so I know the green LED works, but it never lights to indicate the ESC is in throttle profile selection mode.
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Scottrik
03-19-2008, 03:40 PM
#5991
Scottrick,
You're supposed to press and hold the button down after the ESC is on to change the profile!
Try that when the ESC is on!
You're supposed to press and hold the button down after the ESC is on to change the profile!
Try that when the ESC is on!
Hey your Steve-ness,
I'm trying to change the throttle profile on my Rooster Crawler Edition esc to #2 to take advantage of the LiPo cutoff feature. Following the instructions I'm holding the one-touch button down as I turn on the power switch. After a second or two the red LED comes on steady (where if I released I'd be able to marry my transmitter to the esc) but the second LED I'm supposed to be waiting for never lights up. Both LED's give one quick flash when I initially turn on power so I know the green LED works, but it never lights to indicate the ESC is in throttle profile selection mode.
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Scottrik
I'm trying to change the throttle profile on my Rooster Crawler Edition esc to #2 to take advantage of the LiPo cutoff feature. Following the instructions I'm holding the one-touch button down as I turn on the power switch. After a second or two the red LED comes on steady (where if I released I'd be able to marry my transmitter to the esc) but the second LED I'm supposed to be waiting for never lights up. Both LED's give one quick flash when I initially turn on power so I know the green LED works, but it never lights to indicate the ESC is in throttle profile selection mode.
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Scottrik
03-19-2008, 04:00 PM
#5993
Will a GTB run non-sensored brushless motor?
I did a search in the electronics forum, but did not find an answer to my question. I have (3) GTBs and one of them runs a 6.5 Velocity in a 5 lb. 4wd mini-truggy. It moves it along pretty well, but gearing is limited due to heat. I'd like to run a motor with a bit more torque than the 10th scale specific Novak motors. I want to run a Neu 1506 (5500kv), but would prefer not to also buy a different speed control. Is this possible or do the GTBs only work with sensored brushless motors?
03-19-2008, 04:26 PM
#5994
In fairness to myself, that is by no means made clear in the instructions. I'd argue they should say "While the esc is 'on'..." or some such, especially since this is being done on the heels of the transmitter binding process.
Thanks for the help!!
03-19-2008, 07:09 PM
#5995
Hey steve, i guess this is more fitting in your thread than in mine haha...
how i understand it, 17.5 doesnt have as much RPMs as brushed but a ton more torque, so it can push through a really high gear ratio to make up for the difference and what ive seen is that on the pro-level, they dont have as much top-speed still as a good brushed motor (but are decently close).
so the 13mm rotors gives more torque and a little less top end (i think), so i figure more torque = more push for taller gearing to add more topspeed? Am i right or will it not work out too well?
how i understand it, 17.5 doesnt have as much RPMs as brushed but a ton more torque, so it can push through a really high gear ratio to make up for the difference and what ive seen is that on the pro-level, they dont have as much top-speed still as a good brushed motor (but are decently close).
so the 13mm rotors gives more torque and a little less top end (i think), so i figure more torque = more push for taller gearing to add more topspeed? Am i right or will it not work out too well?
03-19-2008, 08:55 PM
#5996
Yes, the GTBs will only run sensored brushless motors or brushed motors
I did a search in the electronics forum, but did not find an answer to my question. I have (3) GTBs and one of them runs a 6.5 Velocity in a 5 lb. 4wd mini-truggy. It moves it along pretty well, but gearing is limited due to heat. I'd like to run a motor with a bit more torque than the 10th scale specific Novak motors. I want to run a Neu 1506 (5500kv), but would prefer not to also buy a different speed control. Is this possible or do the GTBs only work with sensored brushless motors?
03-19-2008, 08:57 PM
#5997
Syber,
Hard to say... I don't really have enough experience with the 17.5 and the 13.0 mm rotor in it to say one way or the other.
I know I tend to prefer the 12.3 mm rotor in the 10.5 ... but the 13.0's in the low wind modifieds... take that for what you will
Hard to say... I don't really have enough experience with the 17.5 and the 13.0 mm rotor in it to say one way or the other.
I know I tend to prefer the 12.3 mm rotor in the 10.5 ... but the 13.0's in the low wind modifieds... take that for what you will
Hey steve, i guess this is more fitting in your thread than in mine haha...
how i understand it, 17.5 doesnt have as much RPMs as brushed but a ton more torque, so it can push through a really high gear ratio to make up for the difference and what ive seen is that on the pro-level, they dont have as much top-speed still as a good brushed motor (but are decently close).
so the 13mm rotors gives more torque and a little less top end (i think), so i figure more torque = more push for taller gearing to add more topspeed? Am i right or will it not work out too well?
how i understand it, 17.5 doesnt have as much RPMs as brushed but a ton more torque, so it can push through a really high gear ratio to make up for the difference and what ive seen is that on the pro-level, they dont have as much top-speed still as a good brushed motor (but are decently close).
so the 13mm rotors gives more torque and a little less top end (i think), so i figure more torque = more push for taller gearing to add more topspeed? Am i right or will it not work out too well?
03-19-2008, 09:15 PM
#5998
Tech Fanatic
hey scuba thanks for the help in omaha you gonna do the night race at bending corners saturday later dawg E-MAN
03-19-2008, 09:38 PM
#5999
I'm pretty sure I will be there...depends on how I feel... been pretty under the weather since nebraska
03-20-2008, 08:17 AM
#6000