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Old 02-21-2008, 05:41 AM   #5911
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Hi Steve,

Currently I'm running my GTB with 6-Cell. If I would like to move to 5-Cell, do I need to make any changes in terms of setup on the ESC? Will it auto-detect?

Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2008, 02:08 PM   #5912
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Killer,

You shouldn't really have to make any changes to the programming of your ESC... some people turn the minimum drive up a value or two but that's it.

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Hi Steve,

Currently I'm running my GTB with 6-Cell. If I would like to move to 5-Cell, do I need to make any changes in terms of setup on the ESC? Will it auto-detect?

Thanks.
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Old 02-23-2008, 05:45 AM   #5913
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Broady,

Interesting problem...but I think I have a few things for you to try.

First off, make sure that the rotor is shimmed as far "in" as possible without being bound up... if there is alot of endplay this can contribute to the problem you are having.

Also, you might want to try turning the timing up in the motor a bit.

You do this by loosening the three flat head 1/16" screws on the back of the motor and turning the slotted timing ring counter-clockwise a bit.

Hope this helps!
Hi Again , Had no luck with timing change , still stuttering etc . The rotor spins freely and the play feels much the same as our other motors but is harder to move ( stiffer). Any other thoughts ? We dont want to void the warranty and pull it to bits but we can if you want . Can you advise what number of shims etc we should find and in what order . Thanks again
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Old 02-24-2008, 10:29 AM   #5914
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It's hard to move as in when you try to rotate the rotor?

Does it feel gummy or sticky?

If so you may have a coil shorted in the motor... in which case you'd pretty much just have to return the motor to either your local distributor or to us.

If you take the front endbell off you can inspect the wires... if it is a bad short more than likely you will see that the wires will look melted... like the insulation will melt together and may look charred.

Hope this helps... let me know!
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:30 PM   #5915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
It's hard to move as in when you try to rotate the rotor?

Does it feel gummy or sticky?

If so you may have a coil shorted in the motor... in which case you'd pretty much just have to return the motor to either your local distributor or to us.

If you take the front endbell off you can inspect the wires... if it is a bad short more than likely you will see that the wires will look melted... like the insulation will melt together and may look charred.

Hope this helps... let me know!
No mate , it spins fine but when you push the rotor in/out its harder / sticker to move . If you hold the car in your hand and give a little throttle it sounds ok but does lag a bit in responce to the controller. Now , whilst we are here our 8.5 ss ( 3rd meet ) played up whilst racing sunday . Sounds like a bad miss fire in a normal car . we put in our 10.5 ex and all good so it is the motor . Any thoughts on what to look for . Thanks
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Old 02-24-2008, 02:16 PM   #5916
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Honestly the only things to really check for that you can do anything about are the sensor wires being fully seated into the connector and the ESC.

If there is damage to one of the sensor wires internally in the motor or one of the sensors inside the motor itself there is no real way for you to fix this yourself.

You may be able to visually tell if a sensor is broken inside the motor but again even if you can see it broken there is not much you can do ... it would need to be sent in for repair/replacement.

The stickiness of the endplay seems strange ... I would check to make sure that the front endbell is screwed down square and that the rear bearing is sitting flat inside as well.

As far as shimming recommendations go it really depends on the motor... there are always tolerances in these things...some motors have adequate endplay with no shimming...others require 0.020" in shims to get to feel right. It is honestly trial and error with most motors.
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Old 02-25-2008, 03:43 AM   #5917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Honestly the only things to really check for that you can do anything about are the sensor wires being fully seated into the connector and the ESC.

If there is damage to one of the sensor wires internally in the motor or one of the sensors inside the motor itself there is no real way for you to fix this yourself.

You may be able to visually tell if a sensor is broken inside the motor but again even if you can see it broken there is not much you can do ... it would need to be sent in for repair/replacement.

The stickiness of the endplay seems strange ... I would check to make sure that the front endbell is screwed down square and that the rear bearing is sitting flat inside as well.

As far as shimming recommendations go it really depends on the motor... there are always tolerances in these things...some motors have adequate endplay with no shimming...others require 0.020" in shims to get to feel right. It is honestly trial and error with most motors.
Thanks Steve , Will shoot both motors back to you guys .
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Old 02-25-2008, 05:51 AM   #5918
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Steve,

I have 17.5 and if I am to go by what Novak recommended 3.5 FDR I will have to use 96/46*1:7 setup on my T2007. I will be running rubber tire. With that setup my rollout will be 55.79mm , will 17.5 able to pull that rollout?
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Old 02-25-2008, 09:09 AM   #5919
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Komkit,

The 17.5 should be able to handle the gearing... most people are finding that they need to run the gearing quite high on this motor. Final gearing will always depend on track conditions, driver style, and system temperatures.



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Steve,

I have 17.5 and if I am to go by what Novak recommended 3.5 FDR I will have to use 96/46*1:7 setup on my T2007. I will be running rubber tire. With that setup my rollout will be 55.79mm , will 17.5 able to pull that rollout?
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:04 AM   #5920
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Hey Steve
With gas prices over $3 per gallon now, do you think Novak could hook me up with a brushless conversion for a 94 Camaro? Just kidding. Wait,,,,no Im dead serious. I would absolutley convert my car if the stuff was out there to do it.

Kent
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:54 AM   #5921
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Hey Kent,

I'll be sure to pass your request on to our engineers!



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Hey Steve
With gas prices over $3 per gallon now, do you think Novak could hook me up with a brushless conversion for a 94 Camaro? Just kidding. Wait,,,,no Im dead serious. I would absolutley convert my car if the stuff was out there to do it.

Kent
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:29 AM   #5922
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Hey Steve,

Does Novak have any plans to go to detachable sensor wires on it's brushless motors like other brands? I really like the motors, but coiling the sensor wires in tight spaces for TC and 12th scale is kind of a pain.

-James
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:39 AM   #5923
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Hi James,

We're always considering doing different things around here... we're always just trying to weigh the pros and cons of that sort of change.



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Hey Steve,

Does Novak have any plans to go to detachable sensor wires on it's brushless motors like other brands? I really like the motors, but coiling the sensor wires in tight spaces for TC and 12th scale is kind of a pain.

-James
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Old 02-26-2008, 02:01 PM   #5924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
Hey Steve
With gas prices over $3 per gallon now, do you think Novak could hook me up with a brushless conversion for a 94 Camaro? Just kidding. Wait,,,,no Im dead serious. I would absolutley convert my car if the stuff was out there to do it.

Kent
I think Bob Stormer already did something like that to his wife's 1:1 scale electric car... Hopped up controller and motor, etc...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=203355
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Old 02-27-2008, 06:51 AM   #5925
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Steve,

If you choke a Smurf, what color does it turn?
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