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Old 12-11-2007, 12:52 PM   #5671
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Steve,

I was running a 10.5 with the 12.3 Sintered rotor in a TC geared 5.25 FDR, the motor temp never got above 120 degrees. The issue is that toward the end of a five minute run the motor started falling off. Could the rotor be the issue even though the temp never got above 120 degrees?
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Old 12-11-2007, 02:10 PM   #5672
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Well because it's closed I don't know that there's really a good way to measure the actual timing of the motor... but I suppose you could do a simple test to see if one motor has more timing than the other...

Any simple RPM checker would work... a prop based or LED based one like what you find in alot of the motor checkers/motor running stations now.

Simply run a motor with the polarity one way and take note of the RPM.

Run the motor the opposite polarity and take note of that RPM... if the timing is zero the RPM difference should be negligable... but if the motor has a significant amount of timing in it you should see a big difference in RPM.

The more change in rpm from one polarity to the other would denote more timing in that motor.

You could probably do the same test by ear... but sometimes our eyes and ears can decieve us!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Steve, totally off topic but, do you know if there is a relatively simple way to measure the timing on a sealed can motor like a Mabuchi?????? Asked this question on the silver can thread, but no one seemed to know. Are you going to be at SoCal anytime this week????
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Old 12-11-2007, 02:13 PM   #5673
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Hey Mitch,

It's possible...also...how and where were you measuring 120 degrees?

If you're just using an infer-red heat gun on the bare aluminum it could give you much lower readings than the actual outside temperature is... Generally I like putting a decal on that back endbell somewhere so that the temp gun has a better surface to read... or you can temp the band or the endcap.

If the temps are legitimately 120 degrees it's possible the rotor just might be a little weak and it might be time for a replacement

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Steve,

I was running a 10.5 with the 12.3 Sintered rotor in a TC geared 5.25 FDR, the motor temp never got above 120 degrees. The issue is that toward the end of a five minute run the motor started falling off. Could the rotor be the issue even though the temp never got above 120 degrees?
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Old 12-11-2007, 02:20 PM   #5674
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hey steve, i got a 13.5 but my friend that gave it to me adjusted the timing on it. How do i set it back to stock?
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Old 12-11-2007, 02:46 PM   #5675
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Well the only REAL way is to have someone here set the timing with the test equipment we have here at the shop.

BUT ... on most of the motors I'd say that the timing gets set so that there's approximately 1/3 the throw left on the retarded side of the timing and 2/3 on the advanced side.... does that make any sense...?

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hey steve, i got a 13.5 but my friend that gave it to me adjusted the timing on it. How do i set it back to stock?
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Old 12-11-2007, 02:47 PM   #5676
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i havnt looked in the motor at all so i dunno, doesnt make sense to me (yet). Is there a pic maybe?
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Old 12-11-2007, 02:58 PM   #5677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Well because it's closed I don't know that there's really a good way to measure the actual timing of the motor... but I suppose you could do a simple test to see if one motor has more timing than the other...

Any simple RPM checker would work... a prop based or LED based one like what you find in alot of the motor checkers/motor running stations now.

Simply run a motor with the polarity one way and take note of the RPM.

Run the motor the opposite polarity and take note of that RPM... if the timing is zero the RPM difference should be negligable... but if the motor has a significant amount of timing in it you should see a big difference in RPM.

The more change in rpm from one polarity to the other would denote more timing in that motor.

You could probably do the same test by ear... but sometimes our eyes and ears can decieve us!
Thanx Steve. Never thought of that. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the hardest to come up with
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Old 12-11-2007, 03:03 PM   #5678
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Here try this...?

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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
i havnt looked in the motor at all so i dunno, doesnt make sense to me (yet). Is there a pic maybe?
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Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss-stock_timing.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2007, 03:08 PM   #5679
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cool ill have to look at my motor later since i got to go right now. Thanks.

A quick look showed that those little lines around the outside arent the same on my motor, so im assuming i should just match em up to look like that one and should be fine.
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Old 12-11-2007, 08:35 PM   #5680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Hey Ted,

Sounds like it could be a couple of different things:

1.) Sensor problem... either a sensor is bad, or the wiring between the motor and the ESC is bad... check all the wires and the connector at the ESC side... make sure all the sockets are plugged into the plastic connector.

2.) ESC problem... It's possible a transistor in one of the phases has gone bad and is responsible for the "push start" condition or the inconsistancies under load.

Try another know "good" motor if you can and if it reacts the same way you know it's the ESC and it's time to send it in for repair.
Steve,

It works now!

I cleaned everything (sensors too), made sure all connectors are pushed firmly in place and miracle of miracles it worked all night. I'd like to be able to say what did it in case it happens to anyone else but I did everything at home. If I had to guess I would say the connector at the ESC might have been the problem, I made double sure the pins were all pushed in.

Thanks for your help.

Ted
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Old 12-12-2007, 01:49 PM   #5681
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Syber,

Every motor is a little different...so just so long as you're similar to that you should be ok

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Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
cool ill have to look at my motor later since i got to go right now. Thanks.

A quick look showed that those little lines around the outside arent the same on my motor, so im assuming i should just match em up to look like that one and should be fine.
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Old 12-12-2007, 01:50 PM   #5682
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Hey Ted,

Glad to hear that it's working for you now!



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Steve,

It works now!

I cleaned everything (sensors too), made sure all connectors are pushed firmly in place and miracle of miracles it worked all night. I'd like to be able to say what did it in case it happens to anyone else but I did everything at home. If I had to guess I would say the connector at the ESC might have been the problem, I made double sure the pins were all pushed in.

Thanks for your help.

Ted
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Old 12-13-2007, 07:53 PM   #5683
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Thanks

Last edited by Ashley Cobb; 12-13-2007 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:24 PM   #5684
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Ashley,

Looks strange...that's a very old 4.5 if it has the bonded rotor in it... and it looks even more strange because all of the bonded rotors that went out in the velociti series motors had kevlar wrap on them so this sort of thing didn't happen.

I suggest you take some needle nose pliers and try to pull out the large chunks... hopefully this will pull out the smaller chunks with them as you go.
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Old 12-13-2007, 10:41 PM   #5685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Ashley,

Looks strange...that's a very old 4.5 if it has the bonded rotor in it... and it looks even more strange because all of the bonded rotors that went out in the velociti series motors had kevlar wrap on them so this sort of thing didn't happen.

I suggest you take some needle nose pliers and try to pull out the large chunks... hopefully this will pull out the smaller chunks with them as you go.
Ahh so its the bonded rotor... I didnt think the rotor looked right.

Thanks very much for the info.

I have removed the pics..

Cheers
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