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Old 09-04-2007, 09:53 AM   #5236
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Well,

Like mentioned earlier I recommend brushless motors and ESCs!

Much less stuff to have to drag along with you to tune the motors
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Old 09-04-2007, 10:05 AM   #5237
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Scuba, you gonna make it BCR this Sat? I might be my mod debut..
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Old 09-04-2007, 01:41 PM   #5238
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probably going to be running on sunday on the rug!
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Old 09-04-2007, 05:24 PM   #5239
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, , , , , , , , , ; ; ; ; ; ; . . . . . . . LOL
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:42 AM   #5240
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I have a 6.5R with GTB SC. Took a really hard hit the other day, now my motor is cogging really bad. Most of the time I have to give it a push to get it going...and I notice its top speed is about 70% of before the hit. I open the motor, nothing is bend or breaken. I tried another GTB SC and its the same thing...so I know it something within the motor...senors?

Is there anything else I could check or do? Thx
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Old 09-05-2007, 12:03 PM   #5241
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Chumanji,

I would first check to make sure that all of the wires are still fully seated into the sensor harness connector... if one of those wires is not fully seated (or perhaps even broken/pinched) from the crash it can cause problems like what you have described.

Also make sure that none of the main power wires (or the tabs on the motor) are shorted against one another... that can cause further damage or problems like what you are experiencing.

If there do not seem to be any external connection or shorting issues it is possible that something got damaged in the motor internally and at that point I would recommend sending it in to us for evaluation.

The following link should tell you everything you need to do in order to send back in your motor to us:

http://www.teamnovak.com/cs/index.html



Quote:
Originally Posted by chumanji View Post
I have a 6.5R with GTB SC. Took a really hard hit the other day, now my motor is cogging really bad. Most of the time I have to give it a push to get it going...and I notice its top speed is about 70% of before the hit. I open the motor, nothing is bend or breaken. I tried another GTB SC and its the same thing...so I know it something within the motor...senors?

Is there anything else I could check or do? Thx
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:58 PM   #5242
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Hi Steve, thanks again for your help on my last project, its that kind of customer service that keeps me running orange. Now another question, is there anyway to tell from the outside of a GTB that it has lipo cut-off?

Thanks
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Old 09-06-2007, 03:22 PM   #5243
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Thanks steve.
I check the connectors, looked for shorts, and breaken wires. But, didnt find anything. I guess it might be something internal...I'll have to send it in.

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Chumanji,

I would first check to make sure that all of the wires are still fully seated into the sensor harness connector... if one of those wires is not fully seated (or perhaps even broken/pinched) from the crash it can cause problems like what you have described.

Also make sure that none of the main power wires (or the tabs on the motor) are shorted against one another... that can cause further damage or problems like what you are experiencing.

If there do not seem to be any external connection or shorting issues it is possible that something got damaged in the motor internally and at that point I would recommend sending it in to us for evaluation.

The following link should tell you everything you need to do in order to send back in your motor to us:

http://www.teamnovak.com/cs/index.html
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Old 09-07-2007, 03:35 AM   #5244
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Steve,
Can I interchange the pro ss series (10.5) motor and esc with the ss series (4300) motor and esc?
Also can I replace the rotor in my 4300 (has std size front bearing) with the 13mm sintered rotor?
Thanks.
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Old 09-07-2007, 08:48 AM   #5245
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Default GTB 3.5 with 5 Cells

Hi Steve,

Got a quick one for you, trying to run my newly setup 3.5 GTB system with 5 cells combination, the track is midsize with a long straight on the outside. What would be the right FDR for Tamiya TRF415 mre, and the approximately run time for the 5 cell 3700mah. The last time i tried with 6 cells running on 11.25 the motor got hot but never thermal. Thanks for listening and Novak rocks.

Kind Regards,
Wai
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Old 09-07-2007, 09:15 AM   #5246
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Chris,

I will try to post a few pictures a little later today on how to tell the difference!

Tanta,

Yeah, you should be able to interchange SuperSport Series motors between those ESCs without any problems!

You can also put the 13.0 mm rotor into your 4300 motor as well but you need to replace the front endbell with one with a large bearing.

5919 is the part number for the ribbed endbell
5920 is the part number for the smooth endbell.

Infanique,

Under race conditions for a mid sized track with 6 cells and a 3.5 I'd probably run around 10.3-10.5... with 5 cells I'd run around a 9.4 or 9.5 on the same sized track. Run time is difficult to say...it really depends on the condition of your batteries and your driving style... if you drive really hard you're going to have much less run time than someone who drives "easier"
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Old 09-07-2007, 09:41 AM   #5247
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Default Li-Po GTB Identification

While there are some other subtle differences between the original GTB and the Li-Po capable GTBs, the most notable difference is the inclusion of the circuit highlighted with the small red box on the right hand GTB.

This circuit indicates that your GTB is Li-Po saftey cut off capable... but doesn't necessarily guarantee that your GTB has the software active in it.

For example... if you have a 4 cell GTB with the highlighted circuitry your GTB does not have the Li-Po cut off software installed in it... because the ESC is only designed to see up to 4 cell NiMH input voltage (6 V or so) ...so a 2 S Li-Po pack would be higher than that (7.4) ... and a single Li-Po cell at 4.2 V would be ineffectual for racing conditions.
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:05 PM   #5248
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Default 13.5 questions

I was wondering what a good starting point would be for the FDR at the following tracks:

BCR
La Mirada
Corona

Also, can the GTB and the older Super Sport Plus be geared the same using a 13.5 motor?

Thanks
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Old 09-07-2007, 04:06 PM   #5249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
While there are some other subtle differences between the original GTB and the Li-Po capable GTBs, the most notable difference is the inclusion of the circuit highlighted with the small red box on the right hand GTB.

This circuit indicates that your GTB is Li-Po saftey cut off capable... but doesn't necessarily guarantee that your GTB has the software active in it.

For example... if you have a 4 cell GTB with the highlighted circuitry your GTB does not have the Li-Po cut off software installed in it... because the ESC is only designed to see up to 4 cell NiMH input voltage (6 V or so) ...so a 2 S Li-Po pack would be higher than that (7.4) ... and a single Li-Po cell at 4.2 V would be ineffectual for racing conditions.
Great thanks for the pics and info Steve. Is it safe to say that a GTB(not the 4 cell version) with this circuitry has the software or should I send it in and have it checked before using with a li-po first?

Chris
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Old 09-08-2007, 01:53 PM   #5250
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Just to let you all know, I will be an official Novak fan very soon. Expecting a GTX in the mail...

Anywho, now that it is all in order, I looked at my RX that i got in a trade. The length is about 7 inches, and the wire is stripped. I was thinking to replace the whole wire, but I think I want to just solder another wire onto the end of this wire. However, I don't know what gauge to use. I was going to take the wire from my RTR receiver/esc unit, but i want to keep that in working order just in case.

What gauge wire should I use for the RX wire? I have plenty of 22 gauge--will that work?
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