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Old 07-23-2007, 11:28 AM   #4996
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Thanks Steve, you are great! If I have more question, can I still post here or should I take it to [email protected]?

THANKS!
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Old 07-23-2007, 11:31 AM   #4997
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You can always email us at [email protected] or [email protected] and we'll get to your questions as soon as possible!
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Old 07-23-2007, 12:06 PM   #4998
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Hey Steve, just a quick question what is the stock timing for 13.5? i forgot to mark down before i clean and adjust my motor. thanks
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Old 07-23-2007, 12:22 PM   #4999
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Hey Guo,

Sorry I missed your question earlier!

We set the timing electrically here at the factory using some pretty sophisticated equipment... to set it exactly where we set it would require more than what I'm sure you have in your pit!

BUT... I can give you a pretty good appoximation of where your timing should be set:

If you notice that there are slots in the timing ring on either side of the solder tabs on the motor... the timing ring only has a fixed amount of adjustment in either direction... in either direction you will notice that at it's maximum the slot will just tuck up against(or sometimes just behind) the solder tabs.

When looking at the back of the motor fully advanced would be the slot on the right being behind/next to the tabs on the right side... fully retarded would be the slot on the left being behind/next to the tabs on the left side.

The stock timing is just a bit lower than half way... so I would just set it to the middle and back it off a milimeter or two and go from there.

Sorry I cannot be more precise but I could give you readings that we look for here...but they wouldn't mean anything do you without the same setup we have here!
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Old 07-23-2007, 12:33 PM   #5000
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alright Steve,
they having two timing slot pretty near A and C solder tab. is that you mean my left timing slot will go close to sloder tab A? thanks
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Old 07-23-2007, 01:13 PM   #5001
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yep! I will try to take some pictures later today post them here so you can better-see what I am talking about!
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Old 07-23-2007, 01:42 PM   #5002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
yep! I will try to take some pictures later today post them here so you can better-see what I am talking about!
thanks for your help. the 13.5 was blast on my last week race.
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Old 07-23-2007, 01:52 PM   #5003
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Steve - I have a brand new sealed GTB 4-Cell that doesnt have your sticker for overseas parts ( I really could care less about that though) and it not updated for Lipo. Is there a fee associated with upgrading it? LMK.

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Old 07-23-2007, 02:08 PM   #5004
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Tony,

The 4 cell ESCs are not intended for use with more than 4 cell/4.8 Volt input...

Since a 2 cell lipo pack is 7.4V and a single cell lipo would be 3.6 V the 4 cell GTBs do not come lipo enabled.
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Old 07-23-2007, 02:09 PM   #5005
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hey Steve... what did you get with you GOLDEN TICKET
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Old 07-23-2007, 02:22 PM   #5006
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Quote:
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Steve - I have a brand new sealed GTB 4-Cell that doesnt have your sticker for overseas parts ( I really could care less about that though) LMK.

TV
We could send you the sticker, if you need it. It only must be affixed to items sold in CA. If you bought in in CA, PM me the retailer name and we can check up on it.
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Old 07-23-2007, 02:26 PM   #5007
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hahaha I get to go on a tour of Willie Wonka's Chocolate Factory!!!!
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Old 07-23-2007, 09:27 PM   #5008
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Steve,

So I can use 14 guage wire for the Cap and have it further? How long do you think I can go?

Thanks
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Old 07-24-2007, 04:55 AM   #5009
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Steve is it possible to put bonded rotor from my 4.5R into 3.5R, If it's possible what FDR should i run let say for 5 cell and 6 cells??? i found that the sintered rotor has a bit of cogging effects like modified brushed motor
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Old 07-24-2007, 09:38 AM   #5010
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It is possible to go a little bit longe with 14 awg wire... but I would say you should only be able to go about 1.5 inches longer or so with the 14 awg than with the 16 awg.

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Steve,

So I can use 14 guage wire for the Cap and have it further? How long do you think I can go?

Thanks
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