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Old 07-19-2007, 09:17 AM   #4981
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Adrian,

I don't really recommend changing the timing on the motors because we optomize the timing for most applications, but it can be done.

If you are looking at the back side of the motor where the sensor wires come out the back you need to loosen the 3 1/16" screws slightly and rotate the colored timing ring via one of slots in the ring... I recommend a small screwdriver for this.

The ring itself will only move a small amount... if you look at the solder tabs on the motors in relation to the slots in the motor the slots on either side of the tabs will just tuck up behind the solder tabs at either extremity.

To advance the timing you turn the ring counter clockwise.

To retard the timing you turn the ring clockwise.

When you time up you're going to have to gear the car down a bit... and when you time down you will have to gear it up.

Good luck!



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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Steve,

Can you adjust the timing on the new 13.5 and 10.5 motors? I see no mention of this in the instructions. I would like to increse the timing of my new 13.5 for 1/12th 4 cell racing. Hopefully to get a little more rpm so I can run a less insane gear ratio
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Old 07-19-2007, 04:23 PM   #4982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Adrian,

I don't really recommend changing the timing on the motors because we optomize the timing for most applications, but it can be done.

If you are looking at the back side of the motor where the sensor wires come out the back you need to loosen the 3 1/16" screws slightly and rotate the colored timing ring via one of slots in the ring... I recommend a small screwdriver for this.

The ring itself will only move a small amount... if you look at the solder tabs on the motors in relation to the slots in the motor the slots on either side of the tabs will just tuck up behind the solder tabs at either extremity.

To advance the timing you turn the ring counter clockwise.

To retard the timing you turn the ring clockwise.

When you time up you're going to have to gear the car down a bit... and when you time down you will have to gear it up.

Good luck!
Thanks Steve, thats what I needed to know. I figured I could time up and gear down a little. Heat and efficiency are not big issues in 4 cell 1/12th racing.
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Old 07-20-2007, 08:58 AM   #4983
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No problem!
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Old 07-20-2007, 09:56 AM   #4984
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Steve can you please post the save FDR ratio for rubber tire 5 cells for:
Novak 5.5R
Novak 4.5R
Novak 3.5R

thanks please give me the save ratio within, thanks in advance
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Old 07-20-2007, 10:07 AM   #4985
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How do you change profiles on the XBR sport Speedo? It wasnt in the instructions. Is it the same as the GTB?
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Old 07-20-2007, 10:18 AM   #4986
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Drag_on,

Usually for 5 cell I find myself gearing up 2 teeth on my pinion in 64 pitch from where I am geared with 6 cells.

So for medium sized tracks I would gear:

5.5= 7.6 FDR
4.5= 8.5 FDR
3.5= 9.4 FDR

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRAG_ON View Post
Steve can you please post the save FDR ratio for rubber tire 5 cells for:
Novak 5.5R
Novak 4.5R
Novak 3.5R

thanks please give me the save ratio within, thanks in advance
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Old 07-20-2007, 10:20 AM   #4987
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sucks you missed the game last night steve.

buy your next xbox at walmart!

boo on the red ring of death!
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Old 07-20-2007, 10:26 AM   #4988
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Jack,

You change the profiles in exactly the same manner as with the GTB.

It is all outlined in the "Advanced Programming: Profile Selection and Proper Gearing" instruction Sheet which should have been included with your XBR ESC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Smash View Post
How do you change profiles on the XBR sport Speedo? It wasnt in the instructions. Is it the same as the GTB?
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Old 07-21-2007, 08:44 PM   #4989
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Steve,

Does the power trans-cap module's positive and negative wires suppose to be as short as possible or it does not matter? My Cyclone layout does not let me have short wires!
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Old 07-22-2007, 10:06 AM   #4990
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TFR,

If you're going to use 16 awg wires the length that comes on the transcap is as long as you can go.

If you go to larger gauge wires you can run slightly longer wires... but we're not talking lots of extra length


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Steve,

Does the power trans-cap module's positive and negative wires suppose to be as short as possible or it does not matter? My Cyclone layout does not let me have short wires!
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Old 07-22-2007, 05:22 PM   #4991
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Hey Steve, just a quick question what is the stock timing for 13.5? i forgot to mark down before i clean and adjust my motor. thanks
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Old 07-22-2007, 10:23 PM   #4992
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Steve,

Doing some bench test on my new installed, Novak GTB with 10.5SS. When I hold full throttle position for 3 sec or so, the ESC would stutter to a slower speed then goes back to full throttle again, or when I hold to around 30-40% throttle the motor would stop and red led blinks. Trouble shooting says about the sensor cable, I did shorten the cable and made sure 6 pins has contact. What else can be wrong?

Any help is appreciated...
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Old 07-23-2007, 09:25 AM   #4993
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TFR,

There is a possibility that when you shortened your sensor wires one of your solder joint might not be very good....? Maybe you can check them....?

Also, you did lengthen then wires on the transcap... did you use larger guage wires?? You've got to go to at least 14 AWG if you're going to go longer than the stock wires.. if not maybe even 12 awg.

Hope this helps!
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Old 07-23-2007, 11:06 AM   #4994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
TFR,

There is a possibility that when you shortened your sensor wires one of your solder joint might not be very good....? Maybe you can check them....?

Also, you did lengthen then wires on the transcap... did you use larger guage wires?? You've got to go to at least 14 AWG if you're going to go longer than the stock wires.. if not maybe even 12 awg.

Hope this helps!
I was testing it with a 4 cells pack that only has about 1000Mah in it, was the pack not good enough for the red led to flash? Is there a replacement connector and pins for the sensor to purchase at Novak?

Thanks again.
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Old 07-23-2007, 11:17 AM   #4995
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Unfortunately we do not offer a replacement harness for our motors...we do offer double-ended sensor harnesses for use with other brand's motors that have connectors on the motors... maybe you could use one of those ...?

#5355 for 9"
#5356 for 4"

It's possible that your battery pack may not have had enough power to run the system consistantly... I would definately re-test using a fully charged 6 cell pack.
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