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Old 06-18-2007, 05:48 PM   #4831
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Don't worry...Art wasn't there either. Scared him so bad he went and purchased a new ride.....LOL RDX couldn't hang.
Yea Art, it's to bad you couldn't make it, I wouldn't have minded outqualifying another mod guy with my stock time
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:52 PM   #4832
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Yea Art, it's to bad you couldn't make it, I wouldn't have minded outqualifying another mod guy with my stock time
Careful there old man.....or I will have a my teenager mix some X-LAX into your Refried beans when you aren't looking.....
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:56 PM   #4833
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Steve curious to know. On the Novak website, there are explicit instructions on measuring inductance to differentiate between sintered and bonded BL rotors.
Do u guys have any idea how other branded BL motors measure up against those numbers?
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Old 06-19-2007, 11:32 AM   #4834
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Question for you MR. Weiss. Why is my M8 go up to 140 on the Throttle and 160 on the brakes. When I set up my esc, should I put it to 140 and 160 or should they both be at 100. Do they represent %? I hope this is understandle. Thanks. Good job by the way in answering nubie questions.
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:11 AM   #4835
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Hi Steve,

I know you have probably answered this question a 100 times but what do you think is the optimal motor temp for a 13.5 sintered for 1/12 scale?

I have been running around 140 degrees? It felt like the motor was falling off a bit in the last 2 minutes? Mabye 1 tooth to high? Sorry, I am very new to this brushless stuff but I have to admit I am enjoying the free maintance!

Thanks
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:18 AM   #4836
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is it possible to use a gtb with 4,5 by m-chassis (tamiya M03-M) if possible what combination is suitable for the safety play? i have a m-chassis outlaw race this sunday....
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:51 AM   #4837
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Steve curious to know. On the Novak website, there are explicit instructions on measuring inductance to differentiate between sintered and bonded BL rotors.
Do u guys have any idea how other branded BL motors measure up against those numbers?
Wyl03

Unfortunately I don't really have enough of other people's motors to really make a good observation as to how they measure up to ours.

I'll try to do some digging around and see what I can find though.
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:52 AM   #4838
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Question for you MR. Weiss. Why is my M8 go up to 140 on the Throttle and 160 on the brakes. When I set up my esc, should I put it to 140 and 160 or should they both be at 100. Do they represent %? I hope this is understandle. Thanks. Good job by the way in answering nubie questions.

Tanta,

I've sort of wondered why they go up to different values myself... you're gonna have to ask airtronics/sanwa on that one

We do recommend that you turn them all the way up for the best possible throttle and brake resolution. If you do not your response will not be as smooth as it could be.
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:55 AM   #4839
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Hi Steve,

I know you have probably answered this question a 100 times but what do you think is the optimal motor temp for a 13.5 sintered for 1/12 scale?

I have been running around 140 degrees? It felt like the motor was falling off a bit in the last 2 minutes? Mabye 1 tooth to high? Sorry, I am very new to this brushless stuff but I have to admit I am enjoying the free maintance!

Thanks

March,

That temperature actually seems pretty decent to me... we like to recommend that your motor come off the track at under 175 degrees...so you're well under that.

Do you have the bonded or sintered magnet?

If you have the bonded and you are experiencing power fade but have plenty of run time left in your batteries it is possible that tyoru magnet is getting heat saturated...in which case it would probably be wise to gear down a tooth.

If you have a sintered rotor I don't expect for you to experience the same sort of fade at such a relatively low temperature... I would check to make sure that your batteries have enough run time...?
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Old 06-20-2007, 08:58 AM   #4840
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is it possible to use a gtb with 4,5 by m-chassis (tamiya M03-M) if possible what combination is suitable for the safety play? i have a m-chassis outlaw race this sunday....
Hey Dash,

The ESC and motor should mount up just fine in your mini... I'm not sure that you will be able to get suitable gearing for the 4.5 motor though... generally speaking the 4.5R is a very high RPM motor and to gear it properly you need to put a pretty small pinion gear in your car.

That being said it still might be a bit much power for the drivetrain in your car to handle... but I've never tried it so I can't really say for sure.

I would say try putting the smallest pinion gear on that you can find and carefully monitor the temperature of the ESC and motor while running.

We like to see temps under 175 degrees.
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Old 06-20-2007, 09:35 AM   #4841
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OK...got another question for the Evicerator...

I just swapped my SS+ speed control last week and got a "SuperSport 2" in exchange. It looks like an XBR to me...but I'll play along...LOL...

Anyways, the XBR has LiPo cutoff, right? Does the SuperSport 2 have it as well? I looked for the instructions on the website, but I didn't see them.
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Old 06-20-2007, 09:46 AM   #4842
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OK...got another question for the Evicerator...

I just swapped my SS+ speed control last week and got a "SuperSport 2" in exchange. It looks like an XBR to me...but I'll play along...LOL...

Anyways, the XBR has LiPo cutoff, right? Does the SuperSport 2 have it as well? I looked for the instructions on the website, but I didn't see them.

Because that particular ESC is being given out as a replacement for the super sport it does not have lipo cut off enabled like it's "big brother" the XBR.

All other specs are similar though.
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Old 06-20-2007, 10:42 AM   #4843
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Because that particular ESC is being given out as a replacement for the super sport it does not have lipo cut off enabled like it's "big brother" the XBR.

All other specs are similar though.
I see how it is...LOL...
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Old 06-20-2007, 03:54 PM   #4844
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Steve,

I am running the new sintered 13.5 motor.

I am rolling out to a 2.5 in 12th scale. The more I gear it up the faster it goes! How can I tell that it is over geared? Will I start losing torque at some point? Should I continue to go higher then a 2.5?
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Old 06-20-2007, 04:01 PM   #4845
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March,

Your "proper" gearing is really going to depend on track size, grip, driving style, batteries...

Realistically you should be able to keep gearing the 13.5 up until the temps start to get too high...

We like to see the motors run under 175 degrees.

If you're well under this temperature you might want to gear up until you lose torque.
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