DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

3M Permanent double side tape, the thin stuff for arts and crafts. It makes me sad to see someone tape in a battery to a touring car with that super thick Parma gummy tape. The only downside is you have to keep it in a bag or something because any little bit of lint or dog hair around that tape reel will be in the tape.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Use Kydex, you can get it from mc-master carr

https://www.mcmaster.com/#acrylic/pvc/=18gusz4

LzREngineering

Awful night racing tonight - the fk05 handled ok but the 15 year old nimhs failed utterly.

On the plus side, I bought a (full size) LiPo!
Hopefully next meeting will be better with a re balanced car and some actual power!

Nitrofish48

Hey guys I meant to post on here with my updates and have been slacking.

What I ended up doing for the battery tray was cutting out a piece of 1/4 inch ish lexan and made a battery cage. It works perfectly. I used 8 3mm shims on under both battery holder posts to make sure the battery wouldnt slide out during cornering and am using a slim piece of foam on top of the battery just to make sure it dosnt go anywhere. Honestly all my batterys fit perfectly now and the foam accommodates multiple heights, it's better than the original design lol.

I was back at the track for 6 HOURS this Saturday and boy was it worth it. I tightened up the rear ball diff a little bit and that really gave my car some grunt out of the corners. I also tightened my front diff almost* all the way down ( there is still some diff action) and that helped a lot too. (I tried my car with a loose front diff and quickly realized that was a terrible idea) I also layed my shocks down front and rear to get more side bite and messed with droop a bit. All in all I gained about .5-.7 seconds consistently, and my fast lap went from an 11.5 to an 11.1 which is maybe .5 off the realllllllly fast A main guys at my track. I was haulin' some serious ass with my FK05, and was basically able to keep up (if I was consistent) with a buddy of mine and his t4 16, he had a best lap of 10.8.

Overall it was awesome, I learned a lot about my car and got better at driving it too. I added about 50g of weight to it today to get it race ready, so Ill be back in a few weeks to practice with the new weight and see how that feels and then hopefully race the next day. Really excited about my progress, old cars can definitely kick some serious ass.

Speed Chaser

iTrader: (5)

How old does a tc have to be to be considered old?😂😂 i have some but i dont know if they will be considered old

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

It depends on who you ask, but the most common answer I've seen in this thread is whether the chassis was designed for NiCd/NiMH or LiPo.

LzREngineering

Tried some outdoor racing @ Cotswold MCC on Sunday in torrential rain. (Great track!!) Drowned the motor, cracked a C-hub and bent a driveshaft. First breakages in 12 years of owning this car! Also sent the Li-Po skidding accross the tarmac - I need to work on a better way of securing it (currently have it wedged between 2 old servo posts)

In the one semi-dry race that I actually finished the car went ok considering the front right suspension was locked together with cable ties.

Now to go hunting for spares...

Metalsoft

iTrader: (76)

I wanted to show you guys this:

I race a custom Carbon TB03 but still uses all of the lay down ( IFS ) front suspension, as well as all the plastic stock Tamiya parts ( Minus Chassis of course )

I was able to win the A-Main with consistent driving from a car built in 2008.

I run: Fantom V1 FR1 21.5 with a Turnigy cheap lipo ( the $30 one ) and a car geared at 3.842 because of the internal ratio being so high on older cars.


Eddie ( Mr. TQ ) runs a new Awesomatic, Alum chassis 21.5T Team Scream, with Reedy lipo.


This is how close the older cars can keep up with the new ones.....

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Good running.... You are right there....What is your setup ???

Metalsoft

iTrader: (76)

Yeah I sneaked this one away from him for the win...

Gave the car all it could handle.

Currently:

Med yellow Front spring 40wt oil - Short Damper spring
Med Yellow Sway bar - 3 hole piston

Soft Red Rear Spring 40wt oil - Short Damper Spring
Soft Red sway bar - 3 hole piston

FR1 Fantom geared 3.842 ( 83 64P spur 52 64P pinion )

Weight 50/50 left to right 49/51 front to rear

Total weight 1380 on the dot ( with Body )

5mm ride height in front 5.2mm ride height in the back

Spring weight almost equal all around

.060 glue on front tire - 3/4 dope on front - full dope on rear

2.5mm on front chassis turnbuckle

1mm on back chassis turnbuckle

-1 deg toe front

-2 deg toe in rear

-1.5 deg camber front

-1 deg camber in rear


CRC black carpet Med size track 96x36

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Good setup... Make sure the motor fan does not get affected by the rotor's magnetic pull. My fantom v1 did not like the fans any closer than 15mm .... Now you have a great base, you can compete with any other new chassis...Testing different bodies might be next to get the car's full potential... Cheers....

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

This is a load of garbage, put the fans where they fit best and don't listen to Bert.

patorz31

I really, really, really, hate to say this. Bert is right on that one. I have a couple of Freakishly strong Team Powers Rotors that I got from a Asian team driver. The damn Rotors will stop the fan if it's to close.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I don't know what to tell you dude, when my Fantom V1 is assembled it wont even pick a paperclip up off the table.

The iron of the stator combined with the aluminum can are effective magnetic shielding. A bare rotor may cause some issue and stop the fan due to it either blinding the internal sensors or by affecting the internal magnet, but whether my fan is 0, 5, 10, or 15mm from my motor makes no difference. And I paid extra for the torque rotor. Your team powers may be a bit different as I have a TP Actinium Standard and I never had any issues with the fan, but if you installed a God Magnet you have gotten some interference.

How PC Fans Work

Next we will find out how much faster you will go if you swap your steel motor screws for aluminum. I guess we should count our blessings, Bert finally stopped telling people to blow their motors up for fun and then when I said that it was dangerous posting conceited comments like "If you want to win, you have to push it ..... The basher mentality will not get you a TQ and win... Maybe a third place finish...lol..."

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

That is awesome man, I can only hope my TB03r can hang as well as your car did!