Old TC Cars - Still Racing Competitively
#751
I remember reading an old thread where a racer compared one set of spec tc tires with another set that were 5grams lighter per tire, and the difference was noticeable to him. So it's just something that needs to be considered at some point...
Sorex tires are 24grams each while the gravity tires I am using now are 32grams to 33grams.... That's 8 to 9 grams difference that can make a difference...
Also , the Sorex wheels can also be grinded down another three to four grams, furthering the gap...
Sorex tires are 24grams each while the gravity tires I am using now are 32grams to 33grams.... That's 8 to 9 grams difference that can make a difference...
Also , the Sorex wheels can also be grinded down another three to four grams, furthering the gap...
#752
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
I seem to remember there being rules at every spec tire race telling us not to screw with the spec tires beyond gluing and balancing. Cutting rims or other weirdness to lighten or increase/decrease flex was explicitly prohibited. This kind of thing is why we run spec tires.
#753
Yes, that was the Xceed rim shaver used mostly on nitro foam tires... I used it on my old sweep tires and got two grams off each rim after about an hour of wrist twisting work. I am hoping the drill will speed up the process, but if it's prohibited, then that just saved me alot of headaches....Thanks Desert.......
Last edited by bertrandsv87; 01-13-2017 at 02:11 PM.
#754
Hi All,
I'm new here. just to share my rebuild Tamiya tb 01.
Chassis and some parts were bought over 15 years ago !
Tamiya carbon chassis
original gear differential at rear
3Racing alum. solid axle spool at front
Tb evo II hard suspersion arm
TA 04 C hub and upright for both front and rear
3Racing Swing Shaft
Tamiya Super Short Big Bore Damper
GPM FRP Damper stay
GPM motor mount
GPM steering arm
GPM alum.main drive shaft
Tamiya Alum. Suspsion mount
BLITZ 190mm Body
HobbyWing V3.1 + 13.5T
Sanwa MT44
I'm new here. just to share my rebuild Tamiya tb 01.
Chassis and some parts were bought over 15 years ago !
Tamiya carbon chassis
original gear differential at rear
3Racing alum. solid axle spool at front
Tb evo II hard suspersion arm
TA 04 C hub and upright for both front and rear
3Racing Swing Shaft
Tamiya Super Short Big Bore Damper
GPM FRP Damper stay
GPM motor mount
GPM steering arm
GPM alum.main drive shaft
Tamiya Alum. Suspsion mount
BLITZ 190mm Body
HobbyWing V3.1 + 13.5T
Sanwa MT44
Last edited by walrusjon; 02-05-2017 at 07:38 AM.
#755
Tech Master
iTrader: (78)
Hi All,
I'm new here. just to share my rebuild Tamiya tb 01.
Chassis and some parts were bought over 15 years ago !
Tamiya carbon chassis
original differential at rear
3Racing alum. solid axle spool at front
Tb evo II hard suspersion arm
TA 04 C hub and upright for both front and rear
3Racing Swing Shaft
Tamiya Super Short Big Bore Damper
GPM FRP Damper stay
GPM motor mount
GPM steering arm
GPM alum.main drive shaft
Tamiya Alum. Suspsion mount
BLITZ 190mm Body
HobbyWing V3.1 + 13.5T
Sanwa MT44
I'm new here. just to share my rebuild Tamiya tb 01.
Chassis and some parts were bought over 15 years ago !
Tamiya carbon chassis
original differential at rear
3Racing alum. solid axle spool at front
Tb evo II hard suspersion arm
TA 04 C hub and upright for both front and rear
3Racing Swing Shaft
Tamiya Super Short Big Bore Damper
GPM FRP Damper stay
GPM motor mount
GPM steering arm
GPM alum.main drive shaft
Tamiya Alum. Suspsion mount
BLITZ 190mm Body
HobbyWing V3.1 + 13.5T
Sanwa MT44
#756
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
OK guys, I just dusted off a TC3 and did the mods to get brushless gearing on the car. I have now raced it three evenings and I love what I am seeing. Great responsive steering and it reacts to tuning changes predictably. I am running it in USGT and having a blast with it. What makes it so good, It has a very stiff and light weight chassis (tub graphite) and a very efficient drive line. Everything is tucked in close to the center of the chassis to produce a lower polar moment of inertia which makes the car change directions quickly. Plenty of parts and hop ups (if you need them) are available.
#757
Tech Regular
T312
I've found it to be pretty good. It's only lagging characteristic is lack of roll center adjustment. When I say that; I mean, from the lower control arm and I know it's there. Try to find the hangers. Other than that, if you don't want to change gearing too much, it's not bad.
Old Guy's TC3, is a lower all around, when you look at the shock towers. And the it's all graphite so, it's as light as you can get. Not to mention, if we do the AGE/lapTimes or even the $/second his wins by a long shot. Hmm, I think I just invented a new class.
So, if we do the math on the latter, Guy's cost is, guessing at the average cost of a TC3, after depreciation; ~$7ps and mine is more like ~$20ps. That only includes the estimated price for a chassis. That includes no other items since, after talking to him, it seems like he, actually didn't put any more money into the car. The rest he had lying around for testing (Sunk Cost). So, that seems like the fairest test.
PS, I did find a T3 2012 with motor, speeder and servo for $100 on Ebay. However, that's an outlier. I'm sure that was liberated from the passenger seat of it's owners' car or something like that.
Old Guy's TC3, is a lower all around, when you look at the shock towers. And the it's all graphite so, it's as light as you can get. Not to mention, if we do the AGE/lapTimes or even the $/second his wins by a long shot. Hmm, I think I just invented a new class.
So, if we do the math on the latter, Guy's cost is, guessing at the average cost of a TC3, after depreciation; ~$7ps and mine is more like ~$20ps. That only includes the estimated price for a chassis. That includes no other items since, after talking to him, it seems like he, actually didn't put any more money into the car. The rest he had lying around for testing (Sunk Cost). So, that seems like the fairest test.
PS, I did find a T3 2012 with motor, speeder and servo for $100 on Ebay. However, that's an outlier. I'm sure that was liberated from the passenger seat of it's owners' car or something like that.
#758
Hi All,
I'm new here. just to share my rebuild Tamiya tb 01.
Chassis and some parts were bought over 15 years ago !
Tamiya carbon chassis
original gear differential at rear
3Racing alum. solid axle spool at front
Tb evo II hard suspersion arm
TA 04 C hub and upright for both front and rear
3Racing Swing Shaft
Tamiya Super Short Big Bore Damper
GPM FRP Damper stay
GPM motor mount
GPM steering arm
GPM alum.main drive shaft
Tamiya Alum. Suspsion mount
BLITZ 190mm Body
HobbyWing V3.1 + 13.5T
Sanwa MT44
I'm new here. just to share my rebuild Tamiya tb 01.
Chassis and some parts were bought over 15 years ago !
Tamiya carbon chassis
original gear differential at rear
3Racing alum. solid axle spool at front
Tb evo II hard suspersion arm
TA 04 C hub and upright for both front and rear
3Racing Swing Shaft
Tamiya Super Short Big Bore Damper
GPM FRP Damper stay
GPM motor mount
GPM steering arm
GPM alum.main drive shaft
Tamiya Alum. Suspsion mount
BLITZ 190mm Body
HobbyWing V3.1 + 13.5T
Sanwa MT44
Very nice!
#759
Glad to hear the TC3s are doing well. I have mine still in race trim from about 15 years ago , I need to get it out and see how it compares against my more modern cars again. I always liked that chassis. Durable, worry free and fast.
#760
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
This is probably my best result to date with my stock TC3 from last weekend. Managed second, even though my best lap and top 5/10 average were nothing special. Pulled it off with consistency.
The finals didn't go so well. I had decent enough pace, however in all 3 finals I got taken out on the first lap and played catch up for the rest of the race.
The finals didn't go so well. I had decent enough pace, however in all 3 finals I got taken out on the first lap and played catch up for the rest of the race.
#761
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
I've found it to be pretty good. It's only lagging characteristic is lack of roll center adjustment. When I say that; I mean, from the lower control arm and I know it's there. Try to find the hangers. Other than that, if you don't want to change gearing too much, it's not bad.
Old Guy's TC3, is a lower all around, when you look at the shock towers. And the it's all graphite so, it's as light as you can get. Not to mention, if we do the AGE/lapTimes or even the $/second his wins by a long shot. Hmm, I think I just invented a new class.
So, if we do the math on the latter, Guy's cost is, guessing at the average cost of a TC3, after depreciation; ~$7ps and mine is more like ~$20ps. That only includes the estimated price for a chassis. That includes no other items since, after talking to him, it seems like he, actually didn't put any more money into the car. The rest he had lying around for testing (Sunk Cost). So, that seems like the fairest test.
PS, I did find a T3 2012 with motor, speeder and servo for $100 on Ebay. However, that's an outlier. I'm sure that was liberated from the passenger seat of it's owners' car or something like that.
Old Guy's TC3, is a lower all around, when you look at the shock towers. And the it's all graphite so, it's as light as you can get. Not to mention, if we do the AGE/lapTimes or even the $/second his wins by a long shot. Hmm, I think I just invented a new class.
So, if we do the math on the latter, Guy's cost is, guessing at the average cost of a TC3, after depreciation; ~$7ps and mine is more like ~$20ps. That only includes the estimated price for a chassis. That includes no other items since, after talking to him, it seems like he, actually didn't put any more money into the car. The rest he had lying around for testing (Sunk Cost). So, that seems like the fairest test.
PS, I did find a T3 2012 with motor, speeder and servo for $100 on Ebay. However, that's an outlier. I'm sure that was liberated from the passenger seat of it's owners' car or something like that.
#762
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
TC3 roll center adjustments...
Even on stock TC3, it is possible to make additional roll-center adjustments by either putting shims between the a-arm mounts and the chassis and/or putting shims between the shock tower and the transmission case.
On the a-arm, you just have to make sure to use shims that will fit inside the front/rear bumper holes. The blue aluminum Associated shims for the newer cars will work just fine for this. I've only ever used 1 shim in this area so it would still allow the a-arm mount to fit at least partially into the front/rear bumper.
As far as shimming/raising up the shock towers so you change the camber link angles, this will also affect the shocks. I've only used a small shim in this location and also made sure to use a longer screw to hold down the shock tower. Make sure to not use too long of a screw to hold down the shock tower because it can interfere with the diffs.
----------
There were some aftermarket companies that made shock towers for the TC3 that had more shock mounting locations but I don't recall any that had different camber link locations.
The simplest option to get more camber link adjustment on a TC3 is to replace the stock chassis braces with TC4 chassis braces. The TC4 braces have 4 different locations for the inner camber link mount and you can use taller ball studs and/or shim the studs for a lot more adjustability.
At the same time you can also change to TC4 shock towers, which also have 4 different mounting locations.
Some people have referred to these changes as TC3.5.
Hope this info helps.
Even on stock TC3, it is possible to make additional roll-center adjustments by either putting shims between the a-arm mounts and the chassis and/or putting shims between the shock tower and the transmission case.
On the a-arm, you just have to make sure to use shims that will fit inside the front/rear bumper holes. The blue aluminum Associated shims for the newer cars will work just fine for this. I've only ever used 1 shim in this area so it would still allow the a-arm mount to fit at least partially into the front/rear bumper.
As far as shimming/raising up the shock towers so you change the camber link angles, this will also affect the shocks. I've only used a small shim in this location and also made sure to use a longer screw to hold down the shock tower. Make sure to not use too long of a screw to hold down the shock tower because it can interfere with the diffs.
----------
There were some aftermarket companies that made shock towers for the TC3 that had more shock mounting locations but I don't recall any that had different camber link locations.
The simplest option to get more camber link adjustment on a TC3 is to replace the stock chassis braces with TC4 chassis braces. The TC4 braces have 4 different locations for the inner camber link mount and you can use taller ball studs and/or shim the studs for a lot more adjustability.
At the same time you can also change to TC4 shock towers, which also have 4 different mounting locations.
Some people have referred to these changes as TC3.5.
Hope this info helps.
#763
That is very good performance from a tc3 stock... Keep up the good work...
I will be testing the new Fantom v-spec 5000mah lipo this weekend. Hopefully they will hold higher voltage than the 3300 TP packs...
I will be testing the new Fantom v-spec 5000mah lipo this weekend. Hopefully they will hold higher voltage than the 3300 TP packs...
This is probably my best result to date with my stock TC3 from last weekend. Managed second, even though my best lap and top 5/10 average were nothing special. Pulled it off with consistency.
The finals didn't go so well. I had decent enough pace, however in all 3 finals I got taken out on the first lap and played catch up for the rest of the race.
The finals didn't go so well. I had decent enough pace, however in all 3 finals I got taken out on the first lap and played catch up for the rest of the race.
#764
Tech Fanatic
TC4 Axles on Pro 4...?
Are Team Associated TC4 Axles the same as HPI Pro 4 Axles?
Thank You
Thank You