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Old 04-12-2011, 11:19 PM   #16
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With a plastic film backing?
Do you know what the plastic film backing does? And is it necessary for it to work on on your holder?
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:20 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
I know there are 4" dia x 1/2" centre hole wet dry 800 grit paper. These are used for disc sanders.

Have you talked to OD or Crashby about prepping diff rings? Polishing them is a no no because you have to tighten down too much for the diff not to slip.



@ Fordy

Didn't you post you have special way/ lube for building a diff but didn't want to divulge what it was?
Ha ha nah I wasnt holding any info mate at all..... I have sent a few tubes of the silicon lube that is made here in australia that isnt related to rc's at all.... I did alot of testing and used every lube under the sun but couldnt get results I wanted with two other guys..... But we came up with a lube made by Molytec australia..... Now I dont think any other country can get it but I can at the cost of the lube and postage send it your way..... Its $28 for 100grams of silicon lube and I can honestly say is the best lube you will ever use.... Plus it lasts for ages. You need any more info on the lube mate dont hesitate to ask
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:20 PM   #18
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I wanna see a picture of this contraption.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:48 PM   #19
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Default Diff Ring Sander

I resorted to taking a picture of this puppy for everyone to see.

I am holding the pen shaped handle and the diff ring is on the underside of the aluminum disk on the sanding disk.

A rubber o-ring keeps you on the plexiglas plate.

Colored sanding disks with different grits (800/1200/1600/2000?) are shown. Discs are exactly the same size as a CD/DVD.

I can scan and forward the Japanese instructions to anyone that can read them...LOL

A trick piece of ingenuity.

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Disks for Diff Sanding Tool-diff-ring-sander-001.jpg  
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Last edited by Still Bill; 04-13-2011 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:55 PM   #20
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I wanna see a picture of this contraption.
Hi amigo,

I must have read your mind.

Isn't past your bedtime? Well, it is mine.

Night, night...

Bill
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Old 04-13-2011, 12:00 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
I resorted to taking a picture of this puppy for everyone to see.

I am holding the pen shaped handle and the diff ring is on the underside of the aluminum disk on the sanding disk.

A rubber o-ring keeps you on the plexiglas plate.

Colored sanding disks with different grits (800/1200/1600/2000?) are shown.

I can scan and forward the Japanese instructions to anyone that can read them...LOL

A trick piece of ingenuity.

Bill
It looks like a lot of work
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Old 04-13-2011, 12:06 AM   #22
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It looks like a lot of work
Agreed. But, it does not cramp my hand and the results are pretty darned good.

Bill
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Old 04-13-2011, 12:09 AM   #23
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Do you know what the plastic film backing does? And is it necessary for it to work on on your holder?
It lays nice and flat on the plexiglas base. Also allows me to do wet sanding as the pictures in the instructions suggest.

Now...night, night...LOL
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Old 04-13-2011, 12:13 AM   #24
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yo brodie man is that the ink eraser not the lead pencil eraser yeah?? sounds like a dumb question but just making sure???

do you use the eraser first then the 1200 sandpaper after or the other way round??

Fordy
Sorry, wasn't too clear.
Get a big eraser like you use to use in school back in the day, and use that to hold the diff ring on the sandpaper. Than you can put your fingers on the eraser and get your polish on
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Old 04-13-2011, 04:49 AM   #25
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I've always used a piece of glass and my female outdrive. I use 400 to cut rings that are really bad (like associated) and clean them up with 600 once flat. I never go any higher than 600 because it makes them too slick IMO. My diffs are smooth and last a long time.
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Old 04-13-2011, 05:29 AM   #26
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try a automotive paint store,they have a large selection of sanding discs/wet and dry.
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:04 AM   #27
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I've always used a piece of glass and my female outdrive. I use 400 to cut rings that are really bad (like associated) and clean them up with 600 once flat. I never go any higher than 600 because it makes them too slick IMO. My diffs are smooth and last a long time.
This is how I do it, too, but 600/800. The simple tool always works!

No slip, and goes a long way between rebuilds, and silky smooth after a first run break in. Also, I use ceramic diff and thrust balls in the TCs, ceramic balls and slapmaster thrust bearings in the pan cars. I've also found that with the proper lube, less is more!
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Old 04-13-2011, 02:09 PM   #28
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I've always used a piece of glass and my female outdrive. I use 400 to cut rings that are really bad (like associated) and clean them up with 600 once flat. I never go any higher than 600 because it makes them too slick IMO. My diffs are smooth and last a long time.
I build my diffs the same way. works excellent.
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Old 04-13-2011, 02:32 PM   #29
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Bill- I'll be at Norcal this sunday. I'll bring you the link where I got mine in Japan.

-John
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Old 04-13-2011, 02:45 PM   #30
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Bill you have PM.
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