KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

Can't wait to try the reflex chassis!

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Any tips for preparing the hubs for the DCJs?

- is the material removed equally or more towards one side? In the photo it seems like more is removed from the rear of the hub.

- How much is removed and what is the best way to remove it?

Any plans to sell hubs that work well with the DCJs?

Thanks.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

I use a dremel with a sanding stone. Try to take off equally on each side and test fit. The hole should be 9.5 to 10mm wide. Just take your time.

We are considering maybe aluminum hubs that use inserts to make it easier.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

That helps! Thanks! I would be interested in an aluminum hub should they be made.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Especially if it had less sloop than the stock.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

I also recommend some fresh loctite on the set screws!!! I am testing the production versions and 1 set screw got loose.

geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

Ive always heat-shrinked my DCJs as well. That combo'd with thread lock lets them go a long time before servicing

mkennedy

iTrader: (26)

christian, tha car looks great! congrats!

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Mike.

We did some more testing last night with the production DCJ's and the RSD6.

The car again was very good. It is superb around sweepers and again, it accelerates like a rocket ship. I did not make any set-up changes to the car yesterday, but I did do some chassis flex tuning.

I removed the steering bridge on the bellcranks to induce a little more chassis flex, I also made a few changes to the top deck to try and get even a little more flex overall. I will post some pictures of the modifications later.

With the production version, we are making the bottom plate a little more flexible as we want to make the chassis have a broader flex tuning range. You'll be able to run it from pretty stiff, to pretty soft, by just removing a few screws or running a cut top deck.

The DCJ's were solid, but I need to stress this: USE LOCTITE on the Set screws.

All our testing has been done on asphalt with a 4.0 turn motor lately.

haywood

iTrader: (49)

Even if the grub screw comes loose with heat shrink it will keep them in one piece!

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

https://reflexracing.3dcartstores.co...ard_Set_Up.pdf

I always like to establish a "starting set-up" that I like. This is a pretty good one for the RSD6.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

The opening for the pin for the hex is much larger than the stock pin. Seems to work regardless but if unwanted a larger pin what size would I get?

I got the 3racing hexes. You have to REALLY tighten them down to get them to hold without sliding out.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

We have pins for them now. We just have not had a chance to put them up on the site. I will by tonight.

JustWill75

I'm using the 3Racing hexes also and noticed that as well good thing I had some hex pins from a Team Magic G4.

I installed my DCJ's on my TC6 last night. I have to admit I really hated the C-hub modding but I understand it is required. I did mine with a body reamer and a X-acto knife. Has anyone came up with a better way of doing it? I made sure to buy extra C-hubs incase I break one

VAzRACER

iTrader: (17)

I've been using a dremel as mentioned. One of the sanding drums I have is about 10mm so I just run the through and it's good. Takes about 2min to do a pair. I wouldn't worry about breaking them much, I've had the same set on my car for about 3 months with no issues.