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Reflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)

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Reflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)

Old 05-04-2012, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Mine is quite a bit more than slightly away from the best. It's about 8mm. Hmm. I will just wait for the new chassis and see if it works for me there.
Can you please re-state what you are trying to say, I don't understand??? If you are still having trouble, maybe it's installed incorrectly or perhaps your batteries are much larger than what Reedy 5000's are, 8mm sounds like a bit much. If this is the case, the only option is to sand away. I have some larger packs that I had to sand the plastic cups quite a bit (like 1-2mm), but not 8mm. The belt tensioner still does it's job though, which is: 1.Keep the packs from hitting the belt and 2.Allow for belt adjustment on the fly.

The new chassis has adjustable battery holders, so this helps with the wider battery packs.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:36 AM
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I shaved about 1 sec off immediately after changing over to the reflex bladder and pistons.

However, towards race #2-3 my shocks started to leak, costing me time in the finals.

The leak is on top of shocks, never had a problem with leaks before using the AE and multiple rebuilds

any tips?
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE View Post
mine works perfect...

but I was wondering about stickers/decals...Ive done 1 1/2 cars and do not have anything to advertise

can I get some please
We are working on some sticker sheets. They'll be out soon. We are integrating the RSD6 logo in them.
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Old 05-04-2012, 08:53 AM
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I've sent you another pm Cristian.

The chassis looks good, whats with the holes/slots in the middle?
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
I shaved about 1 sec off immediately after changing over to the reflex bladder and pistons.

However, towards race #2-3 my shocks started to leak, costing me time in the finals.

The leak is on top of shocks, never had a problem with leaks before using the AE and multiple rebuilds

any tips?
ditto...same issue...but Im going to rebuild them to make sure

cool on the decals...thanks
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
I shaved about 1 sec off immediately after changing over to the reflex bladder and pistons.

However, towards race #2-3 my shocks started to leak, costing me time in the finals.

The leak is on top of shocks, never had a problem with leaks before using the AE and multiple rebuilds

any tips?
These bladders are designed to not interfere with the threads, so they are a bit smaller. My only take, given that the shocks are fully tightened down is to sand the aluminum shock cap slightly so that it can thread further onto the shock, this will create a better seal. I have heard of some AE Shocks doing this due to inconsistent machining. If you have a set of these, a little sanding will do the trick.

Dennis, yes your order has been amended. Don't worry about what you see on your invoice. They have been added already.
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:04 AM
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A got a shock cap in my kit that was 1.5mm narrow than the res of them! AE send me a new one.
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:00 PM
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Ive got my bearings today and installed DCJ's....it seems a tight fit...I took my reemer and open the C-hub to 10mm...but it still rubs...the outside stock washer will not fit on the new axel...any advise?
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by zzztech View Post
I shaved about 1 sec off immediately after changing over to the reflex bladder and pistons.

However, towards race #2-3 my shocks started to leak, costing me time in the finals.

The leak is on top of shocks, never had a problem with leaks before using the AE and multiple rebuilds

any tips?
yeah i had all 4 of my shocks do the same thing at last weeks race, I thought it may have just been overflow, as i said on the thread last week i didnt like the seals at all, went back to the std ones last night and the car was back to its wining ways,

Im not sure ill go back to the soft bladders,

Beth.
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE View Post
Ive got my bearings today and installed DCJ's....it seems a tight fit...I took my reemer and open the C-hub to 10mm...but it still rubs...the outside stock washer will not fit on the new axel...any advise?
Once you get to 10mm use a sanding drum to slowly take away extra material and test fit. It might be that it just needs a little on one side or the other to be shaved off. As for the washers on the axle, since the pin is wider, they should not be needed.

If you are having leaking problems, chances are your shock caps are out of spec. Sanding them should make them fit. If you believe you received faulty bladders, we will gladly send a replacement set, just contact us at the store with your order number or some sort of proof of purchase.

We have sold 1000's of these because they perform better than AE ones under most conditions, however for some people, they might not be the ticket. Personally, in the time I have been using them i have not encountered any issues, but it does not mean that this will be the case for everyone.
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Can you please re-state what you are trying to say, I don't understand??? If you are still having trouble, maybe it's installed incorrectly or perhaps your batteries are much larger than what Reedy 5000's are, 8mm sounds like a bit much. If this is the case, the only option is to sand away. I have some larger packs that I had to sand the plastic cups quite a bit (like 1-2mm), but not 8mm. The belt tensioner still does it's job though, which is: 1.Keep the packs from hitting the belt and 2.Allow for belt adjustment on the fly.

The new chassis has adjustable battery holders, so this helps with the wider battery packs.
Sorry that was a typo. The belt tensioner is 3mm longer than the stock piece not 8. I was expecting about 1mm. The rev tech pack is 60.48mm wide. sounds like it won't matter with the new chassis so I'll just wait to use it with that.
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:25 AM
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No problems with any of my Reflex gear. It's been on the car for months.



With regards to the axle washers what Cristian said is true, they are not needed. However if you're like me and wish to run them you can bore the kit ones out 1mm or just buy some larger ID 0.2mm shims.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:09 AM
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Oh so you can completely tighten the cap without deforming the bladder?

May be I did'nt completely tighten cause fear of deforming the bladder!

Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
These bladders are designed to not interfere with the threads, so they are a bit smaller. My only take, given that the shocks are fully tightened down is to sand the aluminum shock cap slightly so that it can thread further onto the shock, this will create a better seal. I have heard of some AE Shocks doing this due to inconsistent machining. If you have a set of these, a little sanding will do the trick.
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Old 05-05-2012, 11:36 AM
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You should always tighten your caps all the way. Squeezing the bladder in between the cap and the body is what actually creates the seal on the shock.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:14 PM
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What's the ETA for the RSD6 chassis? I'm hoping to get mine before the Reedy race so I can do some testing.
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