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Old 08-24-2015, 08:43 AM   #2926
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Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
Ran the RSD Lightweight Suspension for the 6.2 yesterday. Broke two C-hubs that I think the stock parts would have survived. Put on the Tuning Haus aluminum C-hubs for the 6.2. Have to say that I'm disappointed with the (lack of) durability of the c-hubs included with the kit.
The spec-r c-hubs suck the graphite ones are little better but still break easy.

use these....
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=585

and these....
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=573

And a hard front bumper and just about never break again.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:07 AM   #2927
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Sorry for the late reply, we had a busy weekend at the shop.

I am sorry with your experience with the hubs. They are the graphite ones. You can send them back for inspection to see if we find any qc issues with them.

I know our hubs are not as strong as xray ones, but the durability I assure you is better than the AE ones. If you had really easy breakage, there is probably things you can do to lesser the impact on the front.

1. Do you have your front axles cut flush with some low profile aluminum nuts? The number one breaker of parts on board tracks is axles that stick out too far. These will snag on boards and snap parts off with ease. It is recommended that you always do this to the front and rear.

2. Use a wider front bumper. This won't help if you are side swiping things (which is typically what breaks c hubs and steering knuckles), but it does help protect in frontal collisions. Our wide bumper and bumper brace kit is a better alternative than the one in the kit.

The xray steering knuckles are great, however due to the position on the ball stud, you might have to play around with the steering bell cranks to get proper steering angles.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:05 AM   #2928
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I instalked Tuning Haus c-hubs. They made it through the day. I'm still chasing more steering and keeping the front sway bar attached. I went back to the Associated upper-outer links, but the ball that attaches to the suspension arm keeps popping loose. It seems that the knuckle is hitting it hard enough to pop it loose when I tap a pipe. The RSD bumper is a good idea. I have one in my box, but hasn't installed it (DUH!).
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:27 PM   #2929
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I got to race this weekend at RSD speedway. I happened to be in the area for business and brought my stuff so I could race. I don't regret it at all! It was a fantastic weekend.. The track is large enough to be fun, the people there are very friendly and Christian is a true class act. If you guys happen to be in the area on a race day, you should definitely try to show up... It's really worth it!

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Old 10-26-2015, 01:37 PM   #2930
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So I ordered some extra misc parts from the Lt Wt Arm kit for the 6.2. I noticed the new rod ends supplied that works with the roll bar are slightly different than the old set. I had to mill the face down a bit since they were really tight.

I don't know what size that ball stud is that comes molded right into the arm but they are a slightly larger size than a standard AE one. Somehow unbelievably in a crash one popped off and just to satisfy my compulsive behaviour I switched the 3 remaining old looking ones for the new rod ends that I had to mod slightly.

My question is this; If I did lose another and I wanted a homgenous looking car; can't I buy those rod ends used in an Xray roll bar system? I believe the size of your system and xray is similar. I believe rod end + ball stud + rod end (on the bar iteself) is around 26mm. I believe the part number is #302663

What have people done in the past; the reason I bought some more parts is so If I did lose one I am still in the race. But now the rod ends are now different; so much for that plan.
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Old 10-26-2015, 02:48 PM   #2931
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Originally Posted by irvinew View Post
So I ordered some extra misc parts from the Lt Wt Arm kit for the 6.2. I noticed the new rod ends supplied that works with the roll bar are slightly different than the old set. I had to mill the face down a bit since they were really tight.

I don't know what size that ball stud is that comes molded right into the arm but they are a slightly larger size than a standard AE one. Somehow unbelievably in a crash one popped off and just to satisfy my compulsive behaviour I switched the 3 remaining old looking ones for the new rod ends that I had to mod slightly.

My question is this; If I did lose another and I wanted a homgenous looking car; can't I buy those rod ends used in an Xray roll bar system? I believe the size of your system and xray is similar. I believe rod end + ball stud + rod end (on the bar iteself) is around 26mm. I believe the part number is #302663

What have people done in the past; the reason I bought some more parts is so If I did lose one I am still in the race. But now the rod ends are now different; so much for that plan.

I think you may have been shipped the wrong ends. I will re-send those today. I believe the 302663 ones will work though.
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:05 PM   #2932
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I think you may have been shipped the wrong ends. I will re-send those today. I believe the 302663 ones will work though.

Thanks Christian; the arms rock btw. Do you need me to pm my address to you; or will you be able to identify my address through my name.

Customer Name: Will Irvine.
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Old 11-05-2015, 03:01 PM   #2933
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Hello Christian,

I just want to give some more feedback on my experience with the lcg-T4-chassis:
You maybe remember that I participate in the LRP-HPI-Challenge. For this season the rules for the 17.5t class changed. We run the new CPX version 2 tire and are forced ( ) to run GT bodies.



Like this I started with my generously changed TC6.2 (how the team drivers run it plus RSD upgrades) into the indoor season. Over the last weeks I could improve from 10.075s to 9.840s laptimes. Which was absolutly awesome in my eyes and in comparison to other guys in the same class. So I was quite happy.
Yesterday I was curious how the T4'15 with your lcg-chassis would perform. I just put in the 17.5t motor from the 6.2 and started for the first run.
As we know from the T4, it drives unspectacular and I couldn't tell if it was faster or not (didn't look like it was). But it was 9.7s showed the clock. Uuuh, the other guys were not happy to see me getting faster
I was able to improve further to an incredible 9.602s and run consistent between 9.6s - 9.9s through the whole run. To make it clear what these times are worth, let me compare it to the 13.5t stock guys: Our german vice champion Florian Botzenhart had 9.4s as his fastest times on his board. I am by far not on his level, it is just the car just works so nice with this chassis. It seems to have found the sweet spot for our modern high grip premount tires. I was already very happy on asphalt and now I am also on carpet.

In two weeks I take the car to a challenge race. Lets see how it performs on a track that transforms in 48 hours from very low grip to high grip carpet
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