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Reflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)

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Reflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)

Old 10-11-2012, 12:56 PM
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Price sounds fair to me. People ought to try and develop something and then have it manufactured and see what it takes to produce something see how much it cost from inception to finished product before they question pricing. Some people can never be satisfied .
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Correct, the hole pattern is exclusive to the RSD6.
In Germany we call that hobby model construction (direct word translation). So with a 3mm drill and a bigger one to counterbore (I don't know if this word is correct) you can make it fit at your TC6 or whatever chassis. Maybe I will try that
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:10 PM
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Kevin, yes, if you use a 3mm drill and a 45 degree countersink tool, it will work on the 6 and other models
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by trigger View Post
Price sounds fair to me. People ought to try and develop something and then have it manufactured and see what it takes to produce something see how much it cost from inception to finished product before they question pricing. Some people can never be satisfied .
+1
I know Cristian personally and i know for a fact he works hard on these products and does alot of testing before he puts anything out
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:14 PM
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Its not the problem that i dont want to spend 30$, but i dont know if it makes me faster or more consistent.

That's why im just in doubts about purchasing it. I can spend the 30$ only once.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:19 PM
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$30 is more than reasonable for the mount. Christian makes great products at reasonable prices.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:23 PM
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I have no issues with the products. I have all the RSD products and I love them
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:23 PM
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Dennis, you're right. I don't think the mount will necessarily make you faster, however it is a better solution to holding the servo than what is currently available.

When we designed our original version, notice that before anyone else came out with a floating servo mount, we had ours already. However, the design has some flaws in that when you hit boards, the servo would rotate a bit. Our local track has no boards, and this is where it was developed, so we did not have trouble with it. When we went to other tracks, this problem became apparent. We also heard quite a bit of feedback from our customers, and lot of them have asked for a solid, 1 piece servo mount.

I tried several different revisions of it, but the problem was that I kept breaking servo ears. Instead of releasing it, we therefore decided to go with the "standard" new way that it is being done.

We could go the way some other companies are going and using a CF bridge, but making it 3 piece is not a better solution. There are more elements that can fail and it is more prone to getting out of alignment in hard collisions than with a solid aluminum piece.

And no worries Dennis, I know you mean no harm. I just wanted to be a little more explicit with as to why we decided to go this way with it. You are one of our best supporters and I appreciate all you have done for us.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Kevin, yes, if you use a 3mm drill and a 45 degree countersink tool, it will work on the 6 and other models
Lowes?
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:26 PM
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I doubt it. Just do a google search. You are more likely to find it at a tool place like grainger or something like that.
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Old 10-12-2012, 01:03 PM
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Odd are you wont find mant metric bits local, I couldnt. I ended up ordering some online.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:21 PM
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I rebuilded the car but had a weird thing with the DCJs. It seems that Bone blades (the plastic things) seems to be a too tight fit over the DCJ pins. This is making the suspension bind.

Someone knows a fix for this? I tried to widen the holes in the bone blades, but it brakes too fast then.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:28 PM
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You just need to widen them about on tenth of a mm. I did than with a small drill. Cannot tell you which one, but it really just needs a little bit. The blades will not break. At least this is my experience. So don' panic
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dennisV View Post
I rebuilded the car but had a weird thing with the DCJs. It seems that Bone blades (the plastic things) seems to be a too tight fit over the DCJ pins. This is making the suspension bind.

Someone knows a fix for this? I tried to widen the holes in the bone blades, but it brakes too fast then.
squeeze them gently with pliers like a ball cup.
Frees them right up. No drilling.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:41 PM
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I do a 2mm hex wrench. I heat it up with a lighter and then I push it through the hole. If it's hot, it makes it a lot easier and doesn't really remove material, but rather compresses it.

Never tried the plier trick, but I'm gonna try it tonight.
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