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Old 09-11-2004, 04:57 PM   #1
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Default Orion formula V2 Pro

Anybody seen/run one of these? Tower has them listed for $32. A pretty good deal imo for a budget machine wound motor.
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Old 09-11-2004, 10:53 PM   #2
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Never heard of them, but after thinking about it, it does seem like the next logical step in the V2 line of motors.
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Old 09-13-2004, 03:03 AM   #3
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Shame there is no pic yet. Wonder if it will be a composite endbell?

Surely the manufacturing costs of the aluminium endbell work against making a mass-market machine-wound mod motor?
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Old 09-13-2004, 03:15 AM   #4
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Here's a pic of the endbell.
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File Type: jpg orion_newendbell.jpg (6.2 KB, 481 views)
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Old 09-13-2004, 05:54 AM   #5
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UGLY!!!!!
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:16 AM   #6
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It looks really good IMO!!
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:19 AM   #7
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It looks not so good as the standard amuminium one but still...
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:38 AM   #8
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To all....

The picture is not the real one, but a prototype version to test springs and brushes. I do not know where this pic is coming from, but it should have been an internal one only to give a suggestion in which direction to think....

The final version looks really nice, is silver coloured, an internet press release will follow soon.

Oscar
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oscar Jansen
To all....

The picture is not the real one, but a prototype version to test springs and brushes. I do not know where this pic is coming from, but it should have been an internal one only to give a suggestion in which direction to think....

The final version looks really nice, is silver coloured, an internet press release will follow soon.

Oscar
Looks quite interesting can`t wait till these make it to the stock motors
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:16 AM   #10
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Ugly? it looks awesome for me..., a cheap way of have your own V2 technology in a cheap way, and a lot easier to sold for beginners than the "pro" versions...great way to work as ever Oscar congrats
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Old 09-13-2004, 08:56 AM   #11
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that pic imo is better than the current V2 endbells

on the current v2 motors i find it very hard to solder the wires and brushes on without soldering going up the brush wire...there should be an extra tab for the esc wires.

but this looks like it will be much easier to solder, and a much cheaper way to start using V2 motors.
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Old 09-13-2004, 09:53 AM   #12
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I use a clip on soldering heatsink while soldering brushes on the orion motors (actually for all motors)....with it, I've never had solder run up the brush tube.

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Old 09-13-2004, 01:52 PM   #13
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I`m curious Eddie...

If the V-2 already has most efficient heat sink design ever for its end-bell, how does adding another heat sink help you solder on the wire ?

Its already tuff as hell to get the job done, as it is you have to have a very hot iron...


And where are you clipping the heat sink on ?
The bursh tube perhapes ?

Hardly any room for both the , heat sink ,wire & iron....

Man ! like there is no room already, yeah know.......
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Last edited by Wild Cherry; 09-13-2004 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 09-13-2004, 05:08 PM   #14
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You clip it onto the brush shunt george.....they sell them at radio shack for about $3 or so....when your done soldering the shunt onto the tube, you take the heatsink off(hence the term clip on heatsink).

I use them on every motor, not just the V2. What it does is prevent the rest of the shunt from getting hot enough to even flow solder, so it never rises up the shunt. It looks dorky, but you can also use it to hold the brush....so no more burning your fingers either.

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Old 09-13-2004, 05:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by raving-monkey
that pic imo is better than the current V2 endbells

on the current v2 motors i find it very hard to solder the wires and brushes on without soldering going up the brush wire...there should be an extra tab for the esc wires.

but this looks like it will be much easier to solder, and a much cheaper way to start using V2 motors.
Pinch the lead about 2mm up from the end of the lead with needle nose pliers and this will prevent the solder from wicking up on any brush lead while soldering to the motor tab.
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A picture with your post, when trouble shooting, will probably get more rctech help than without...
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