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Old 03-20-2003, 12:12 PM   #1381
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Steve,

Thanks for info!! I'll try and call ya today about the Barracuda.

Ray
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Old 03-20-2003, 02:48 PM   #1382
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Quote:
Originally posted by fai
Dave: Wish you back to Japan soon!! Good Luck!
Thanks Fai......

-Dave
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Old 03-20-2003, 02:57 PM   #1383
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
As for 28mm foam tires, I mentioned this to Dave (our resident barracuda nut) and he says he runs 28mm foam on his no problem. Just make sure you have the optional wider 6mm hex hubs on there.

They "WILL" Fit.....with the 6mm Spacers... But it's a tight fit..( or at least of the R1 it was) But I run the Speedway PAL short arm conversion on my Cudas now so there isn't any issues...and I would think that there would be even less issues with the new R2 arms

I don't have access to any small picture's that I can attach ..but it does work...
The rear is fin its the front that is a tight fit

-Dave
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Old 03-20-2003, 03:03 PM   #1384
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still waiting on my cuda

all the usps tracker says is it left yesterday morning on a plane from CA so much for Express mail doubt they'll deliver on a Saturday either so if I want to race on Monday it will have to arrive tomorrow
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Old 03-20-2003, 03:24 PM   #1385
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech

I'm not too familiar with the R1 and R2 difference, our resident Barracuda Nut (Dave) should be checking in here in a couple of hours, he'll be more than happy to help you out.

Steve Wang

Someone Rang !!

OK the main differance with the R1 and R2 is as follows

1) Better balanced chassis..(R1 had a wide chassis that was offset to the Battery side to much) R2 chassis has been fixed by moving the Batterys about 3mm forward and 4mm towards the center shaft,also the servo mounting point has been moved forward 3mm too and the motor mount 5mm forward....the end result a chassis that is 6mm more narrow and balanced over the R1

2) Alex Racing Changed the A-arms from the Orginal R1 design to make them much stronger and "Beefy" the orginal arms flexed to much (however they did make a change later in production runs on the R1 that had carbon A-arms) but overall the R2 arms are "Very Strong"
3)They also changed the way the center shaft holder was supported the R2 Now has 4 bearings that hold the center shaft vice the R1 which had only 2 bearings supporting the center shaft ( which caused a lot of flex around the Spur gear and 16T bevel gear ) But this can be fixed by buying the alloy shaft support for the front and rear..( This was necessary for the R1)
4) R2 now comes with threaded shocks ( R1 came with spacers only for spring adjustments)
5) R2 now comes with double bearing front OneWay..(R1 Came with single bearing oneway that was easy to break)



Hope this answers your question

-Dave
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Old 03-20-2003, 07:44 PM   #1386
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Quote:
Originally posted by Macky
I received my R2 yesterday(thanks again Steve) and have my R1 sitting at home. When I get home from work I'll look and see what the differences are. I looked real quick last night and the R2 is slightly narrower(is that a word) and the batteries are closer to the center. It looks like the battery hold down will work but I'll check for sure.
Congrats on your Second Barracuda Macky !!!!!

also they Alloy Battery Hold down will work... you just have to use posts from 2 of the 4 holes that are buy the Tape slots .. it will kind of mount like the Yokomo alloy one mounts

-Dave
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Old 03-20-2003, 09:53 PM   #1387
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What is the part no. for the post to hold the strap? Does the kit come with it?
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Old 03-21-2003, 01:06 AM   #1388
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rayhuang,

I tried the TRC on the "Cuda" tonight and it will rub when you turn the front tires towards the center. I think once you put the 6mm hex on, it'll clear

Herminator,

Sorry buddy, but the EMS is best fastest and more importantly the lower cost way to ship it. In the future, we can always do UPS, but that's an arm and a leg though

Steve Wang
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Old 03-21-2003, 01:13 AM   #1389
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Can someone be kind enough to post a closeup image of the diff gears to show how much material I should sand off the teeth?

I've sanded about 0.5mm off the teeth but the drive train mesh is still fairly tight which means the car only freewheels for about 2-3 seconds at best. Out of the box the car does not seem to be as smooth as my Evo 3. I'm trying to get it to be at least as smooth.
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Old 03-21-2003, 01:47 AM   #1390
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itchynads,

you can try several things:

1. sand the input gear a bit as well, make sure you do it evenly

2. remove the center shaft first so it's just the diffs in the bulkhead, and then spin them...they should spin very free. If they don't, then the bulkheads are not aligned properly. And there is a simple solution for that:

2A: first loosen all the screw underneath the bulkheads (front and rear) by 2 turns so the bulkhead is free. At this point, the diff should spin very free.

2B: then you put the center shaft in place, with the plastic center shaft holders in place on the bulkheads. Make sure the shaft holders are seated properly on the bulkhead. Now, hold the center shaft holders in place with one hand and began slowly screwing in the bottom bulkhead screws. Make sure you do each screw evenly and a little bit at a time (don't screw down one screw all the way, then the others...do a "star" pattern) Your bulkheads now should be properly aligned with the rest of the drivetrain.

I had a customer that had the same problem, and we took care of it with the method above

3. Another thing you might want to try is different shimming. And this varies slightly with each car. For my car, I have one shim on each side of the diff, while in the front I have both on one side, shimming the diff gear away from the input gear.

Try these methods above...I assure you, when you build the barracuda R2 correctly, the drive train is amazing!

Right now, my drivetrain is so free to a point where if I rotate both front wheel forward (which's got a one way, so the rotating it forward does not rotate the rear wheel) as it spins forward, the friction created in the one-way bearings is enough to bring the rest of the transmission and the rear tire to start spinning.

I will get a lot of building tips and videos of my drivetrain on the www.alexracingusa.com website in the next couple of weeks

Thanks for reading, I apologize for another long post

Steve Wang
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Old 03-21-2003, 02:28 AM   #1391
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Thanks Steve. Will try those tips and report back.
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Old 03-21-2003, 04:00 AM   #1392
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Apologising for a great post like that?
Thats one of the most useful posts in this thread, thanks for the great tips, little things that I may not have thought of at first.

No problem with the EMS, it's just me being like a kid waiting for his x-mas prezzy they finaly updated it last night with the fact it went through customs in the UK, seems that was a slight delay for it, probably sat in the customs office all day with two stupid guys staring at it thinking, will we rip it apart and blow it up for a laugh and say it was a bomb or what? I'll find out when I see tea stains and biscuit crumbs on it
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Old 03-21-2003, 04:07 AM   #1393
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Dave, I sent you the pdf file in an email, it's a larger file size than the one on here since I saved it at the best quality for myself
Hope it isn't corrupt for you.
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Old 03-21-2003, 04:54 AM   #1394
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IT'S HERE, IT'S HERE, IT'S HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Old 03-21-2003, 05:46 AM   #1395
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I checked both the R2 and R1 last night. Looks like the battery slots are in the same possition but moved closer to the center by about 3-4mm. I'm not sure about everyone else's kit but mine didn't come with a strap for the battery hold down. It did come with the part that mounts to the chassis though but if you install that it will overlap the chassis. Like Dave said you can mount some post in the two of the holes in the chassis and mount the strap to that. I'll take pictures of mine and post on here this weekend.
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