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Old 05-14-2002, 08:20 AM   #61
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Okay, for the Pro 3 Chassis (Kai), Original version is only 2.2mm and they are same as the hotbodies, thickness vise. For the Control Centre, they are 2.6mm because they want a stiffer rather than more flexible. Also, this is because of the upperdeck too, hotbodies has the glossy finish. The original version of the chassis is dull finished which is a lot more expensive than the glossy finish of the replica version. The kai kit came with 2 verisons of upperdeck and rear shock tower. The upperdeck and rear shock tower that you saw in Hara's car in the pre-world are from Kai. This is because I have the only full kit in Hong Kong.

Now, I switch from HPI to Alex Racing Design. This is because of fashion. Barracuda has 4 colors like CE-4. Another thing, most of my friends are also switching to Barracuda because of the excellent acceleration and the potential of this car. I followed the instructions and build 2 cars already. The only complain that I have about the car is the stupid bushing that they use for the steering. I switched 4 bearings instead. I also got most of the options available in the market. For the Droop screws, you can use 3mm x 12mm or 15mm screws. In order to control the rear toe in, you should also try to use the offset ball head which most of us are using right now. If not, you can try to get the 2 degree rear hub. We also use Square front C hub carrier, and rear hub in our cars. Another thing, it is the collar or spacer that they have as option item. This is very important because you can change the kick up and anti squat faster.

Option parts available in the market now by Comet (same as alex):

1. Double bearing front one way
2. Aluminium Center shaft holder (Must)
3. Offset Ball head (Must)
4. Quick shock screws (a must because they will also give you the 10mm hex driver)
5. Aluminium Battery holder
6. Lightweight rear axles
7. Spacers for the car (must)

Square

1. Durlin Arms (Useless and too expensive)
2. C Hub (less castor than the original 7 degree)
3. Rear Hub
4. Steering knuckle


Performance wise, this is a lot more efficient than most of the two belts because of the shaft design, thanks to AE. The acceleration is quick and carry good corner speed. This car is also very durable compare to most of the car available for the market.
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Old 05-14-2002, 08:33 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcruv

.................Also it was a bit hard to keep the keyed diff rings to stay while building it.
A small dab of grease on the 'backside' of the plates will sort this out!
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Old 05-14-2002, 08:35 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF414M
..............Performance wise, this is a lot more efficient than most of the two belts because of the shaft design, thanks to AE............
More like Tenth Technology Predator DTM....but lets not take this into too much depth!!
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Old 05-14-2002, 09:13 AM   #64
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by TRF414M
[B]Okay, for the Pro 3 Chassis (Kai), Original version is only 2.2mm and they are same as the hotbodies, thickness vise. For the Control Centre, they are 2.6mm because they want a stiffer rather than more flexible. Also, this is because of the upperdeck too, hotbodies has the glossy finish. The original version of the chassis is dull finished which is a lot more expensive than the glossy finish of the replica version. The kai kit came with 2 verisons of upperdeck and rear shock tower. The upperdeck and rear shock tower that you saw in Hara's car in the pre-world are from Kai. This is because I have the only full kit in Hong Kong.

if this is the same TRF414M i know in hong kong
please email me at [email protected] i have lost your
email and info. and need to send you some stuff i have for you!


i tought you sold the kai stuff?if your the same guy
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Old 05-14-2002, 06:25 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm


A small dab of grease on the 'backside' of the plates will sort this out!
I did that but maybe it was my clumsy fingers doing the job.
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Old 05-14-2002, 07:43 PM   #66
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I still have one Pro 3 left. I am currently working on Barracuda because I can find parts a lot easier than Losi. They are able to restock the items in a very short time, unlike Pro 3. This is because it is very popular all over the place. I have quite a few of my friends switched from Pro 3 to Barracuda. This is going to be a lot easier to find the right setting for this car. The most important is getting enough stock of 72 teeth of 48 pitch.
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Old 05-15-2002, 12:13 AM   #67
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does anyone knows the weight of this car ready to run?
thanks.
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Old 05-15-2002, 12:48 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally posted by ME-student
does anyone knows the weight of this car ready to run?
thanks.
I don't have that information but I want to know also.

I have the car but not the scale sorry.
It felt slightly heavier than TC3 graphite chassis version.

One thing I noticed was that it uses lots of steel screws. Ti screws would've been really nice or at least aluminum ones.

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Old 05-15-2002, 01:16 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF414M
.......................... The only complain that I have about the car is the stupid bushing that they use for the steering. I switched 4 bearings instead. I also got most of the options available in the market. For the Droop screws, you can use 3mm x 12mm or 15mm screws. In order to control the rear toe in, you should also try to use the offset ball head which most of us are using right now. If not, you can try to get the 2 degree rear hub. We also use Square front C hub carrier, and rear hub in our cars. Another thing, it is the collar or spacer that they have as option item. This is very important because you can change the kick up and anti squat faster.

Option parts available in the market now by Comet (same as alex):

1. Double bearing front one way
2. Aluminium Center shaft holder (Must)
3. Offset Ball head (Must)
4. Quick shock screws (a must because they will also give you the 10mm hex driver)
5. Aluminium Battery holder
6. Lightweight rear axles
7. Spacers for the car (must)

Square

1. Durlin Arms (Useless and too expensive)
2. C Hub (less castor than the original 7 degree)
3. Rear Hub
4. Steering knuckle


Performance wise, this is a lot more efficient than most of the two belts because of the shaft design, thanks to AE. The acceleration is quick and carry good corner speed. This car is also very durable compare to most of the car available for the market.
Thanks very helpful.
Right now I can use as much information, setup tips as possible.

Steering was real tight fit. Someone told me that I might've built it wrong. But I don't see any other way to build it.

What size of bearings did you use for steering?
Do you have the measurements of all other bearings used in Barracuda. Being myself, I don't feel comfortable going to the track without extra parts and bearings.

These metal shileded bearings may be a nice touch but I prefer them half naked and reoiled.

I finished rebuilding most of moving parts. I may need to reinforce some parts like camber linkes. They are real easy to pop out.
I couldn't keep adjusting the camber without it popping out.

Variable axis ball to change the rear toe in is a nice hop up parts along with torq rod to hold flexible steering arms.

I may put them in my next shopping list.

Or maybe square aluminum hub carriers.

How they perform?
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Old 05-15-2002, 02:08 AM   #70
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yea, iwant to compare it with a FTTC3, i have one builded and never ran it yet, thinking about selling it and get the Alex instead....
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Old 05-15-2002, 02:15 AM   #71
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For me, I need to add extra 30 ~ 40 grams of weight in order to meet the requirement.

One thing about this car, you need to add weight to the left side. This is because of the weight distribution. If not, you will have two different turning radius.

For me, I am happy with the stock version of the Barracuda. I thought I saw someone posted some prototype version of this car. I don't know how it feels because we have different stuff in it. Some of my friends want to increase the initial response of the turn, they used Square C Hub. I think it is about 3 degree or 5 degree. We also use the offset ballhead to increase the rear toe in to 3 degrees.

For the steering bearing, I think they are same as Yokomo's. Most of the Japanese racers, they will install the center rod underneath the center shaft. You just have to add extra 5 ~ 6 mm spacer underneath the ballhead.
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Old 05-15-2002, 02:31 AM   #72
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For the bearings, you can use the same bearings as Tamiya. They talk about the 850, 1050, 1510 bearings. They are the same as Tamiya's car. You can use the blue cover bearings because they are the best bearings in the market.

For the double one way, this is a maybe investment because they original only use one bearing and a bushing on each side. The double bearings will make the car a lot smoother. If possible, use Luna Motor with this car. Hand Wound Explosion 8T double (Purple Lid) is the one to get because it is for the middle range to top end. And the gear ratio is for medium track is 72/22. For 9T motors, 72/23. This should give you some good idea about this car.

This car can take a lot of abuse because I am not a very good driver.
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Old 05-15-2002, 03:31 AM   #73
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these aftermarket parts listed below from Comet and Square, are they available thru a mail-order company such as Control Centre?
I really want to load this up to race
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Old 05-15-2002, 07:47 PM   #74
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Yes, they are available at Control Centre.

Another pointer in building the A-Arms and the 6.8mm ballhead. You should put some Teflon Lubricate like from HPI at that area. This will help make the arms a lot smoother than before.

The car is very durable.
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Old 05-15-2002, 10:38 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally posted by TRF414M
For the bearings, you can use the same bearings as Tamiya. They talk about the 850, 1050, 1510 bearings. They are the same as Tamiya's car. You can use the blue cover bearings because they are the best bearings in the market.

For the double one way, this is a maybe investment because they original only use one bearing and a bushing on each side. The double bearings will make the car a lot smoother. If possible, use Luna Motor with this car. Hand Wound Explosion 8T double (Purple Lid) is the one to get because it is for the middle range to top end. And the gear ratio is for medium track is 72/22. For 9T motors, 72/23. This should give you some good idea about this car.

This car can take a lot of abuse because I am not a very good driver.
Is this offset ball head you were talking about? Which can change the rear toe-in?

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/eshop...xd.asp?id=1138

Is double oneway the same option part used in CE4?

I have a problem with turning the steering all the way to either side because the turnbuckle from the servo touches shaft.
So I had to back it off a little and now not enough steering.

Did you have problem like this.

I'll check it at the track and see if I can solve this.


About the bearings, I noticed their number, for example the first two digits of 1510 specifies 15mm outter diameter. I can't come up with anything with last two digits though.

Why Japanese companies always use encryptic numbers instead of just specifying the whole dimension.


So far I haven't been able to find the similar sized bearing from a bearing manufacturers.

I guess I'll just ask for Tamiya 1510 (850, 1280, 1060, 1050) bearings. Does lhs carry these bearings?

Thank you.
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