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Barracuda from Alex racing

Old 06-07-2003, 08:36 AM
  #2371  
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Don't want to pick me up a nice airbrush do you Dave just been looking at the US prices, Dixie art has brushes for $55 that are 95 here I think the UK needs to be airlifted to just off the west coast of america the rest of Europe doesn't like us anyway
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Old 06-07-2003, 08:44 AM
  #2372  
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Default Re: CVD pin

Originally posted by Tsubasa Sakai
Does anyone know is there any other brand of CVD pin also fit Barracuda one?Since I can't find any in HK.
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Old 06-07-2003, 08:50 AM
  #2373  
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Default Re: Re: CVD pin

Originally posted by Tsubasa Sakai
you could always use a cut down body pin.
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Old 06-07-2003, 09:33 AM
  #2374  
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Default Re: Re: CVD pin

Originally posted by Tsubasa Sakai
The CUDA uses a 1.5mm cvd pin.
Yokomo cvd pins are also 1.5mm, most are 2mm.
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Old 06-08-2003, 08:03 AM
  #2375  
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Default Re: Re: CVD pin

I tried Tamiya and Associated one,both also don't fit.Today I cut the SpeedMind medium body clip and it fits fine and seems hard enough.
I will try the Yokomo one later.
Thanks Herminator and RedBullFiXX
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Old 06-09-2003, 04:54 AM
  #2376  
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Default Re: Re: Re: CVD pin

Originally posted by Tsubasa Sakai
I tried Tamiya and Associated one,both also don't fit.Today I cut the SpeedMind medium body clip and it fits fine and seems hard enough.
I will try the Yokomo one later.
Thanks Herminator and RedBullFiXX
TS: Have you tried those Pro3's? But I think you've to sand them off a little bit as they should be a little bit longer...
You lost those pins or bend them?! If you keep losing them, my little suggestion is that you can surround the CVD with some heat-sink tube, it works!
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Old 06-09-2003, 05:38 AM
  #2377  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: CVD pin

Originally posted by fai
TS: Have you tried those Pro3's? But I think you've to sand them off a little bit as they should be a little bit longer...
You lost those pins or bend them?! If you keep losing them, my little suggestion is that you can surround the CVD with some heat-sink tube, it works!
I was going to say that the Pr03 stuff worked to Fai...but I did want to tell TS to to it the "GETTO" way ..but they do workin' a pinch

-Dave
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Old 06-10-2003, 07:15 AM
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Whats the ratio on the R2 ? I'm racing mine for the first time this weekend and i was thinken that might be sorta important.. Thanks for any help.
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Old 06-10-2003, 07:23 AM
  #2379  
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Originally posted by xxxkat
Whats the ratio on the R2 ? I'm racing mine for the first time this weekend and i was thinken that might be sorta important.. Thanks for any help.
it does kinda help, 2.4375
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Old 06-10-2003, 10:37 AM
  #2380  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: CVD pin

Originally posted by fai
TS: Have you tried those Pro3's? But I think you've to sand them off a little bit as they should be a little bit longer...
You lost those pins or bend them?! If you keep losing them, my little suggestion is that you can surround the CVD with some heat-sink tube, it works!
My pin was bent into 2 parts.
Maybe I didn't notice when the setscrew was lossen.
So finally ...
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Old 06-10-2003, 08:43 PM
  #2381  
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hi guys... was just wondering if some1 would be kind enough to give me some of the strong points and weakness of the R2? was thinking of getting either the SD or the R2... any help is appreciated... thanks.
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Old 06-10-2003, 08:56 PM
  #2382  
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R2 strong & weak points in my opinion:

Strong Points:

VERY durable - no hinge pins to bend, arms you could fit to an 1/8 scale niro and not worry. No gear stripping peoblems like evoIII

Easy to work on - perhaps not quite as easy as the Yok but still not difficult, good access to all parts.

Free drive train (=FAST) - after break in the drive train is very free, with a it of work it can get even better.

Handles well - out of the box it's easy to drive, but to be fair so are most other cars.

Weak Points:

Cant think of any ..... well maybe current lack of set-up info available from Team drivers, compared to say a TC3, but that's getting better.
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Old 06-10-2003, 09:09 PM
  #2383  
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Originally posted by highwayman
hi guys... was just wondering if some1 would be kind enough to give me some of the strong points and weakness of the R2? was thinking of getting either the SD or the R2... any help is appreciated... thanks.
Well you could read this thread for what you want to know but since it's 80 pages worth, I'll let you off plus I'm a little bored

I'll start with the easy one, weak points....
needs care taken when building to get the main shaft aligned well, probably the same for all shaft drive cars, it could do with alloy shaft holders as standard though.
erm.... thats all I can think of
ok parts aren't as easy to come by, not that you need many since you won't break it often

Strong points.....
the whole car it's simply very strong, will survive a lot of crashes.
it's light, you'll probably be underweight unless you use 3300's and even then you'll be close
chassis is pretty well laid out for cell placement etc. can't get them much closer to the center
once you've cleaned out the bearings and got the drive train aligned the car will be very free indeed, I know I have one of the fastest cars in 19T Scottish events, and I have done nothing to tweak my motor
it'ssomething different from the usual crowd, unless you're in Japan where Dave says it's very popular, those Japanese are smart
probably biggest plus is I find it easy to drive, both consistantly and fast, setup changes work the way you expect too
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Old 06-10-2003, 09:26 PM
  #2384  
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ok, I decided to get a little more picky, note these are tiny little things

it's not easy to tighten the diffs, although others say you can take a thin screw driver and grind it to an angle so you can adjust the diff without removing anything. Other wise you have to remove the outer hingepin to get the bone out of the drive cup then you get direct access to the diff screw.

battery locator/post thingsin the kit are from the old cuda and need trimming to work on the narrower chassis, I prefer a couple of straight posts and an alloy strap drilled to accept the posts which then use body clips to secure the strap. Looks a lot neater.

I'm not a fan of the holes in the chassis on the motor side, where you are supposed to locate your esc and reciever, they haven't left enough material to securely fit electronics if you want to sit them certain ways. They made the holes cell size so you had an option of running 2/4 layout, I doubt anyone would ever actually bother.

The graphite chassis could be made out of ever so slightly thicker graphite, the countersunk screws sit slightly proud of the chassis since it's on the thin side.

I don't like philips head screws, which they use on the underneath of the car, I don't know of many kits that would include titanium hex head screws as standard though, and if they went for aluminium ones they would need their heads checked, aluminium screws are as useful as a chocolate fire guard.

These are small nigles, like you get with any car, but they are far outweighed by the positives, such as nice strong bevel gears, unlike lots of other shaft drive cars, you're not going to strip on in a head on crash. In my opinion it's also the best looking shaft drive car out there, no plastic enclosed bulkheads, nice proper alloy bulkheads, like other quality belt drive cars use.
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Old 06-10-2003, 10:10 PM
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... thank you HERMINATOR (for letting me off the hook) JOHN A...

very good points... i guess with a shaft drive, you really get the benefit of effeciency...

just one last question... how does it handle? (ok, i know, it kinda loaded... ) but more specifically, does it have the rear rotation of a losi XXX? or is the rear really planted? how's the steering? since it doesnt utilize the standard steering hub design, is the throw sufficent?

thanks again...
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