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Old 05-25-2003, 05:26 PM   #2281
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If anyone is interested in an R2 with a Pal system in mint condition PM me.
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Old 05-25-2003, 07:54 PM   #2282
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Civic91

Wht didn't you post this three weeks ago!

Hermie

Good result! keep it up.
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Old 05-25-2003, 08:28 PM   #2283
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Default R2's being sold off??

This is the third R2 that I have seen for sale in the last week or so. There's a couple of them up for sale at the trade/sell section. Don't you think maybe the reason is its being expensive to keep up/make competitive? Don't get me wrong, I like my R2 a lot (have another one on order) but I needed to spend additional $300 something on top of the price of the car ($300) to get it where I want it. Here's the breakdown of what I got:

Must haves (my 2 cents only) ($202)
Front and rear alloy shaft holders - ~$80 ($40x2)
Pal drive system ~ $80
Mid span arms ~ $8
Clamp hex hubs ~ $18
Off-set balls ~$16

Very nice to have (again my 2 cents only) ($118)
Alloy front C-hubs $29
Alloy rear hubs $29
Titanium turnbuckles $40
Alloy battery strap $20


On the other hand, my JP version Yok SD did not need any hop-ups because it does not need any (okay maybe graphite suspension parts) . Of course, the R2 can be run box stock, but it kinda leaves you wanting more, again it's just me. I am not trying to say the one is better than the other, I will leave it up to you guys. I'm just saying that with the SD, I didn't have to shell out as much dinero. Performance wise, they are both excellent. I guess the Cuda is just not for everyone due to the end price tag. Again just my $.02 . Feel free to respond.
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Old 05-25-2003, 10:42 PM   #2284
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About the only hop up I felt the car needed is the Drive System.

All other parts are really optional.

Buying alloy parts are nice but they are only for looks rather than function.

Other cars have expensive alloy option parts as well whether you buy them is really up to the individual's budget.

I could also spend a similar amount on the alloy hubs and knuckles for my FT TC3 but they would only be for looks.

The number of people selling their 'cudas is no different to other cars. I can see lots of people selling TC3s as well but it does not mean that its a bad car. Maybe the 'cuda just didn't suit them and wanted the latest and greatest? I'm pretty much an RC addict and its not unusual for me to jump ship every few months regardless of how good a car is
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Old 05-26-2003, 01:32 AM   #2285
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Quote:
Originally posted by itchynads
...........
The number of people selling their 'cudas is no different to other cars. I can see lots of people selling TC3s as well but it does not mean that its a bad car. Maybe the 'cuda just didn't suit them and wanted the latest and greatest? I'm pretty much an RC addict and its not unusual for me to jump ship every few months regardless of how good a car is
I agree with you Itchy, but TC3's are very common here in the US, every man with a dog has one. Nobody said that the R2s are bad cars, maybe just tad too expensive for some. Cuda's are not really mainstream, until Speedtech imported it and not too many people have it yet. To see that many for sale in such a short time since its "arrival" a couple of months ago , just makes me wonder.
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Old 05-26-2003, 04:09 AM   #2286
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It is strange to see quite a few for sale but I think lots of people buy a new car every couple months becaus ehtey like the latest and greatest. Or they find a car doesn't suit them, I've found my cuda great for me, my lab was a great car but never suited me.
I have found I needed an alloy battery strap, mainly because my kit was missing it, and so far one alloy shaft holder. I was actually wanting the pal drive system and will get that eventually and I got yokomo bladder type shock caps because I prefer them, no signs of leaks since I last built them and they look good too .
Having imported my kit it's still reasonable for price compared to other good kits in the UK and I'm sure any of them I would want one or two hop ups. The new yoke seems nice, seems some cuda drivers are going to the yoke instead, but I've seen lots of comments about it's heavy drive train and it hasn't suited indoor wooden floors, which is a big thing for me. It doesn't have many nice alloy bits either.
I'd get myself a second cuda if I could afford it but I've spent far too much recently. If someone wants to sell me a blue pal drive system second hand though...... and one shaft holder
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Old 05-26-2003, 04:49 AM   #2287
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Default Re: R2's being sold off??

Quote:
Originally posted by elnitro
This is the third R2 that I have seen for sale in the last week or so. There's a couple of them up for sale at the trade/sell section. Don't you think maybe the reason is its being expensive to keep up/make competitive? Don't get me wrong, I like my R2 a lot (have another one on order) but I needed to spend additional $300 something on top of the price of the car ($300) to get it where I want it. Here's the breakdown of what I got:

Must haves (my 2 cents only) ($202)
Front and rear alloy shaft holders - ~$80 ($40x2)
Pal drive system ~ $80
Mid span arms ~ $8
Clamp hex hubs ~ $18
Off-set balls ~$16

Very nice to have (again my 2 cents only) ($118)
Alloy front C-hubs $29
Alloy rear hubs $29
Titanium turnbuckles $40
Alloy battery strap $20


On the other hand, my JP version Yok SD did not need any hop-ups because it does not need any (okay maybe graphite suspension parts) . Of course, the R2 can be run box stock, but it kinda leaves you wanting more, again it's just me. I am not trying to say the one is better than the other, I will leave it up to you guys. I'm just saying that with the SD, I didn't have to shell out as much dinero. Performance wise, they are both excellent. I guess the Cuda is just not for everyone due to the end price tag. Again just my $.02 . Feel free to respond.


I have seen the same thing too ...bbut to each there own.. ..The R2 might not be everyones Niche` But it is really easy t set up and to drive ....

But on the other hand the new SD Yok` has it`s share of problems... mainly with the front bulkheads and sus a-arms ....also the Sus blucks tent to crack on inpack ..but there has been people selling them and going back to other cars..... ...again to each there own

-Dave
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Old 05-26-2003, 10:50 AM   #2288
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Great job to Dave Berger from Barracuda USA on a great job placing 2nd overall in the Open Spec class at the Reedy TC Race of Champions. Dave is the guy on the right.
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Old 05-26-2003, 03:53 PM   #2289
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Ok, I have a technical question.....I am frankly fed up with this car at the moment, but it may be my own fault. I have an R2 with the Pal drive system installed an Im having a very annoying problem. First off after installing the Pal system the driveline got louder, with more resistance in the driveline and its very apparent the front input shaft is wobbling....at least a few 1/1000s..at least. I have since got new input gears, and new shaft holders...still wobbling...and loud. Now after its first race day I went through 2 front diff gears and 3 input gears....the diff gear is chipping almost as if the oneway gear and the input gear are slipping. The input gear is wearing weird....it has the smaller part or front worn down, and the top or thicker part of the gear almost worn to a point. Now I have been racing sedans for 7 years....I consider myself a compitent builder and have had a few shaft cars, but Im stumped. I have the driveline shimmed correctly...it has a very small amount of "play" so the driveline is free, but not loose. What Ive noticed while driving it is when getting on the car coming out of the corner its clicking once or twice hard.....????

Now please don't tell me I need the aluminum shaft holders.....I already have close to 500 in this car and as far as Im concerned it should be a tank....its just built that way....Oh and even with the Pal system I stripped the spur gear....and it was a light tap on a fire hose!!! Someone please point me in the right direction...Steve??Redbullfix??? Its very close to having a new home..lol
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Old 05-26-2003, 04:25 PM   #2290
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Quote:
Originally posted by CIVIC91
Ok, I have a technical question.....I am frankly fed up with this car at the moment, but it may be my own fault. I have an R2 with the Pal drive system installed an Im having a very annoying problem. First off after installing the Pal system the driveline got louder, with more resistance in the driveline and its very apparent the front input shaft is wobbling....at least a few 1/1000s..at least. I have since got new input gears, and new shaft holders...still wobbling...and loud. Now after its first race day I went through 2 front diff gears and 3 input gears....the diff gear is chipping almost as if the oneway gear and the input gear are slipping. The input gear is wearing weird....it has the smaller part or front worn down, and the top or thicker part of the gear almost worn to a point. Now I have been racing sedans for 7 years....I consider myself a compitent builder and have had a few shaft cars, but Im stumped. I have the driveline shimmed correctly...it has a very small amount of "play" so the driveline is free, but not loose. What Ive noticed while driving it is when getting on the car coming out of the corner its clicking once or twice hard.....????

Now please don't tell me I need the aluminum shaft holders.....I already have close to 500 in this car and as far as Im concerned it should be a tank....its just built that way....Oh and even with the Pal system I stripped the spur gear....and it was a light tap on a fire hose!!! Someone please point me in the right direction...Steve??Redbullfix??? Its very close to having a new home..lol
I think that I can help you ...please PM me your e-mail address and I can send you some detailed pic's of what to do to fix some of the problems that you are having...also there has been a batch of defective gears (16T bevel ones) that are slightly offset and tend to make the gear wobble

-Dave
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Old 05-26-2003, 04:45 PM   #2291
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Well it was club night again and although there is a 12T motor limit I decided to stick with my 19T Matrix. I was helping lay out the track so I made it slightly tight and twisty, every little bit helps although most of it didn't suit my front one way.
Again my car was blisteringly quick, everyone asked what motor I had in again, I said 19T and their jaws dropped then I let them feel the motor and their jaws dropped further it just gets warm and I haven't had it skimmed in about 12runs now, got a lathe second hand yesterday so I'll do it this week.
I found it wasn't my cells helping with the power, I used my old and miss cared for 3000's for one run and there was very little difference, it was noticable but only just.
There are plenty of other drivers using the same motor at my club it's the most popular 19T there and none of them get close, only at the Scottish event did some have a comparable speed. The motor must be good and helped a huge amount by the shaft drive. I highly reccomend cleaning out the gunk they call grease in the standard bearings and just use a few drops of lighter bearing oil. Then taking plenty of time shimming the diffs and then aligning the shaft.

I missed the first qualifier fixing my car and went out for the second going very fast but driving badly, the corner dots I found were deadly. Final qualifier I drove better and had improved the handling by raising the rear of the car some more, it was already high to deal with the bumps in the tarmac. I managed to get a run that took me to 5th in the A final, in the middle of the 12T guys The final got a little messy but I got into the top three for the first half of the race then made a couple mistakes and a few 12T users behind me caught up and then passed me as I made a couple more mistakes, I didn't have the power to pass them allthough I stuck with them well. I was also slowed down a bit when with about a minute to go I was lapped by the second placed driver as I recovered from a crash, I then found he was having a few wide turns and not so great laps for a bit which made me have to avoid him and take some corners considerably slower than I would normaly.

As for your problem Civic, well you say you've built plenty of cars so it just makes things more confusing. The only hop up I'm using is one rear alloy shaft holder, I do get a minute amount of wobble in my spur gear but it's barely noticable by eye. The pinion mesh is very critical and sometime stricky to get right, I've had one spur messed up from a stone hitting it and another from bottom out when taking a little trip off road, others have gone from bad meshing. Do your diffs rotate freely when not meshed to the shaft? maybe your bulkheads are not aligned properly? bad drilling of the chassis or machining of the bulkheads themselfs.
I had one input gear get messed up a bit today but it was caused by a tiny stone in the diff gear.
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Old 05-26-2003, 05:06 PM   #2292
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Well, I just got done putting the stock driveline back in and the wobble is gone in the front....I didn't have any in the rear. So that leads me to beleive that the front aluminum input shaft(Pal) is slightly off....there really is no other explanation. But there may be other things going on as well to eat up the front gears?
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Old 05-26-2003, 08:23 PM   #2293
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Quote:
Originally posted by CIVIC91
Well, I just got done putting the stock driveline back in and the wobble is gone in the front....I didn't have any in the rear. So that leads me to beleive that the front aluminum input shaft(Pal) is slightly off....there really is no other explanation. But there may be other things going on as well to eat up the front gears?

??? I have a small question....Or more of something for you to look at when you spin the drive train..


Take a look at the front bevel gear and at the same time see if it is wobbleing too...?? if it's.... not the the PAL gear might be messed up..?? But I think that it points more towards the 16T bevel gear..

-Dave
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Old 05-26-2003, 08:37 PM   #2294
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I checked and the bevel gear runs true...no wobble.....I really think the front input on the Pal system is off....
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Old 05-26-2003, 08:51 PM   #2295
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Quote:
Originally posted by CIVIC91
I checked and the bevel gear runs true...no wobble.....I really think the front input on the Pal system is off....
?
Hmmm if thats the case you might want to ask Steve if he can help yuou with this problem...also one more thing that you might want to try is to put the normal drive shaft back in the car and see if the problem still is present

-Dave
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