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Old 05-15-2003, 06:22 AM   #2236
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Quote:
Originally posted by fai
Steve: Does it mean that now there're packs in US that can have 1.2xxV at 30A discharge/0.90V cut-off?! Thanks!
LOL if there were then everyone would be going nuts trying to get them ;nod:

1.2xxV is at 20A and is considered high

I've realised there is a different label on the cells that only gives the numbers for 30A so I'm guess the 20A numbers on the sticker on the pack are calculated to so you can compare them to other manufacturers in the shop.
30A gives more like 1.16xV as good numbers
mine are 1.161V and 1.160V with 408secs and 412secs respectivly.

about to start a big rebuild of my cuda, got a nice shakey tray thing from Steve to try out on cleaning my bearings. I installed them as they came the first time and after a couple runs could see the thick goup they put in them had squeezed out in some places, should be a lot freer after the clean out

Come on Dave, enough stalling
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Old 05-15-2003, 07:16 AM   #2237
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Originally posted by fai
Dave: Where are your pics?? I can't see any!

Hold on... .... Today I had to go back to work but I'll take some pic's tonight of the Cuda/Alex Family

and wait Till you See My New R2FLAP Barracuda I just finished building it up after the drive train mads that I did.. I was able to get about 14 seconds of free spin out of it

-Dave
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Old 05-15-2003, 09:20 AM   #2238
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fai,

at 20amp discharge, they go as high as 1.23V on numbers. at 30amp discharge, I've seen 1.16-1.17+ and I've heard existence of 1.18V+

Steve Wang
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Old 05-15-2003, 10:37 AM   #2239
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Originally posted by SpeedTech
fai,

at 20amp discharge, they go as high as 1.23V on numbers. at 30amp discharge, I've seen 1.16-1.17+ and I've heard existence of 1.18V+

Steve Wang
the Highest that I have seen in Japan is 1.182 and that was from a Trinity Pack last week

the norm seems to be 1.150~1.161 thiough..

-Dave
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Old 05-16-2003, 04:24 AM   #2240
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I see... Thanks, all!
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Old 05-16-2003, 08:53 AM   #2241
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I see... Thanks, all!
No problem Fai..

anything new on the HKG front??

-Dave
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Old 05-17-2003, 12:00 AM   #2242
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Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
No problem Fai..

anything new on the HKG front??

-Dave
Dave: No no, but I bought some more hard A-arms from Jet Hobby (as spare parts) and got/installed the square C-hubs finally! Also, I drilled another holes on those knuckle arms (4mm front from the original) Can't wait to test the result!
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Old 05-17-2003, 08:25 AM   #2243
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Come on Dave, where are these pics?
you should know work comes second to RC
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Old 05-17-2003, 01:55 PM   #2244
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OK, seems we need something to discuss.

What improvements do you think could be made to the R2 and why?

I would like to see the main chassis being made out of a little thicker woven graphite. It's certainly on the thin side and the screws tend to stick out a little, which ruins the heads if you run the chassis too low.
It would be good to see something like the PAL drive system as standard, the spur mount needs to be moved a little forward in the car so the spur can be mounted on the rear side but still be close to the motor for good meshing with normal pinions. Then a shaft holder on the motor mount would be nice.

It would be nice is some things could be included as standard but it would add to cost.
I'd like a normal diff aswell as the one way for up front.
Alloy shaft holders would be nice.
Titanium screws are something I like, mostly since they come with hex heads and alloy ones are useless.
Clamp type hex hubs would be good, seems odd they go to the expense of machining hex's yet don't make them clamping ones.

Other things like alloy c-hubs could be added but I think they are fine as options to buy later.
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Old 05-17-2003, 08:46 PM   #2245
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Arrow R2 Improvements...

I definitely think that a one-piece motor mount/shaft bearing block should come stock. The PAL Drive is just about mandatory if you don't want to be nickel and dimed with buying spur gears. I have been running with the PAL drive and stock molded input gear holders for 3 weeks and I have no complaints about the stock gear holders.

Also, stock aluminum C-Hubs would be nice. The molded ones are just too flexible. Some blue C-Hubs are next on my list of hop-ups to buy.

Andrew-
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Old 05-18-2003, 06:48 AM   #2246
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
Come on Dave, where are these pics?
you should know work comes second to RC


Hi Hermi`

I just go threw taking all of the Pics of all the new stuff and completely rebuilding all of my Barracudas ..and CE-4...
adding a bunch of new Ceramic bearings for 3 of the 4 Cudas...and these bearings will make quite abit of differance

hive me a few more hours and I`ll have the pictures up..

-Dave
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Old 05-18-2003, 07:02 AM   #2247
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
OK, seems we need something to discuss.

What improvements do you think could be made to the R2 and why?



Well for Starters..... I could put together a really nice "Dave" Version that would knock your socks off..but it might put a big dent on your pocket book

But things that the R2 needs...improvements/added to the kit...are

1) Shorter rear shock bodies( the rear R2 shock bodies are to long ..it needs the same size as the front shock bodies)
2) PAL drive system included with the kit..
3) Mid Span A-arms with the kit...

these are just a few things

I think that a thicker upper deck would be a really great option also since the stock uper deck is about 2.4mm thick....a 2.6 or a 2.8 one would be nice..

What do you all think.

-Dave
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Old 05-18-2003, 07:56 AM   #2248
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Arrow R2 Improvements...

Shorter rear shock bodies for sure. It would be nice if they were the same (front and back).

Andrew-
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Old 05-18-2003, 09:08 PM   #2249
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So we want them to use thicker graphite it seems.
PAL drive system is certainly popular too

Well my car is fully built and feels great
The front one way lets each wheel spin really freely but the rest of the drivetrian is so free that if you spin both front wheels forwards together it still causes the rest of the drive train to spin at about a third of the speed of the front wheels
I should get some good speed, especialy with my new cells to use too and I decided to go for less rear toe. Got a 12T motor to try out, it's second hand but my mate bought it second hand but couldn't control it, says it has tons of punch. I'll see how it goes for me, could be something to use for club racing. May just stick with my ok 15T which makes it easier to drive neatly and there isn't too much loss if the track isn't too big. I may even stick to 19T, plenty other drivers seem to be doing this and we may get our race director to put us in our own heat and final.

You seem to have long hours there in Japan, Dave
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Old 05-18-2003, 09:40 PM   #2250
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
So we want them to use thicker graphite it seems.
PAL drive system is certainly popular too


You seem to have long hours there in Japan, Dave
I agree with the thicker upper deck ..We should bug Steve @ SpeedTech to see if he can get enought people together that want a upper deck made ...Because I think that it would be great for people that run on Carpet...and for Hi-Bight tracks


what do you all think.??


Also Yes I do have some "STUPID" hours that I work..

-Dave
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