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Old 04-03-2003, 12:51 AM   #1726
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Building the car....

I broke one of the input gears trying to get it through both bearings from squeezing it too hard and I just snapped it....

That sucks....poo

Anyone else do this?
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Old 04-03-2003, 04:14 AM   #1727
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Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
Building the car....

I broke one of the input gears trying to get it through both bearings from squeezing it too hard and I just snapped it....

That sucks....poo

Anyone else do this?
Yes, I did too.
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Old 04-03-2003, 05:52 AM   #1728
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You said Poo.

You must learn young patawong.

Force is only used to pass someone you dont like.
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Old 04-03-2003, 07:32 AM   #1729
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I too broke one of the ears off the input gear when trying to get it through the second bearing. What worked for me though was this. After getting the gear through the first bearing (which is easy) insert the assembly into the support holder. Then put the second bearing partly on by putting it on at a angle so one of the ears is inside the the inner part of the bearing. Then take a small flat-tip screwdrive and insert it between the bearing and the holder and push on the opposite side of gear thats already partially in the bearing. While pushing on the screwdriver just apply some pressure to the bearing and it pops right on.

Matt
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Old 04-03-2003, 08:39 AM   #1730
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Quote:
Originally posted by pkranger63
I too broke one of the ears off the input gear when trying to get it through the second bearing. What worked for me though was this. After getting the gear through the first bearing (which is easy) insert the assembly into the support holder. Then put the second bearing partly on by putting it on at a angle so one of the ears is inside the the inner part of the bearing. Then take a small flat-tip screwdrive and insert it between the bearing and the holder and push on the opposite side of gear thats already partially in the bearing. While pushing on the screwdriver just apply some pressure to the bearing and it pops right on.

Matt
That's exactly how I did it. Works great.

Last edited by Macky; 04-03-2003 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 04-03-2003, 09:20 AM   #1731
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Quote:
Originally posted by pkranger63
I too broke one of the ears off the input gear when trying to get it through the second bearing. What worked for me though was this. After getting the gear through the first bearing (which is easy) insert the assembly into the support holder. Then put the second bearing partly on by putting it on at a angle so one of the ears is inside the the inner part of the bearing. Then take a small flat-tip screwdrive and insert it between the bearing and the holder and push on the opposite side of gear thats already partially in the bearing. While pushing on the screwdriver just apply some pressure to the bearing and it pops right on.

Matt
Good Idea!!! This seems slot easier than trying to "Kung Foo Grip" it in.

Steve,

You should add this tidbit of info to the Alex USA site!!!


now I just need another input gear...
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Old 04-03-2003, 09:24 AM   #1732
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Hi Guys,

Thanks for the tip, I will add that to the website. Also, input gears available here:

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/272.html

Thanks

Steve Wang
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Old 04-03-2003, 11:35 AM   #1733
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You said Grip!

Kung foo Grip at that.
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Old 04-03-2003, 11:38 AM   #1734
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any one got a quick and easy way to adjust the diffs? it seems to me you have no choice but to remove the hingepin.
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Old 04-03-2003, 12:59 PM   #1735
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Hermi- I do it by poping off the top inner Ball cup.
then Leaning out the wheel. To get it as far as you can.
then use a small flat blade screwdriver. Like one you would use
to lean out a gas engine. Put it thru the slot that is not occupied by the pin. and turn the Opposite wheel. Took a sec to get but easy now. You could even dremmel of part of the screwdriver to make it angle correctly. Maybe next time.

The diffs are so freakin smooth is pathetic. Never had one feel that good after a race.

Good luck
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Old 04-03-2003, 02:07 PM   #1736
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Quote:
Originally posted by pkranger63
I too broke one of the ears off the input gear when trying to get it through the second bearing. What worked for me though was this. After getting the gear through the first bearing (which is easy) insert the assembly into the support holder. Then put the second bearing partly on by putting it on at a angle so one of the ears is inside the the inner part of the bearing. Then take a small flat-tip screwdrive and insert it between the bearing and the holder and push on the opposite side of gear thats already partially in the bearing. While pushing on the screwdriver just apply some pressure to the bearing and it pops right on.

Matt
Sounds like the tip I posted a few pages back


-Dave
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Last edited by JDM_DOHC_SiR; 04-03-2003 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 04-03-2003, 02:08 PM   #1737
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the tip, I will add that to the website. Also, input gears available here:

http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/272.html

Thanks

Steve Wang
I have already been there!!! Thanks
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Old 04-03-2003, 02:20 PM   #1738
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2Fast4U2
Hermi- I do it by poping off the top inner Ball cup.
then Leaning out the wheel. To get it as far as you can.
then use a small flat blade screwdriver. Like one you would use
to lean out a gas engine. Put it thru the slot that is not occupied by the pin. and turn the Opposite wheel. Took a sec to get but easy now. You could even dremmel of part of the screwdriver to make it angle correctly. Maybe next time.

The diffs are so freakin smooth is pathetic. Never had one feel that good after a race.

Good luck

Thats basically what I do to..... but it's a little harder when you have the PAL short arm conversion

-Dave
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Old 04-03-2003, 02:48 PM   #1739
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
Hi Guys,

They are sending me replacement battery trays, so as soon as I get them, I'll let you guys know and we'll take care of it from there.

Okay, here's how we did last night:

I tried out the car during practice with dual diffs first, and the car was very good. Very predictable going into and exiting turns. It has a slight push going in, but that's typically how it is with dual diffs, and I think with a few adjustments (different springs possibly) we can diminish the push a little more. The track last night was also not really suitable for dual diffs (it was a very fast track where each lap is around 9.7 seconds) so for the race, I put the one-way back in the car.

I tried the larger piston hole with 40wt oil, kit springs and kit shock location. Compare to last week, the larger piston hole with the slightly thinner oil (I was on 45wt last week) made the biggest difference. The car was planted around the turns and it rotates very well around the tight infield. I had several racers commenting on how well the car rotate around the turns. I was on the mid-span arms as well, which after more testing it was almost a necessity to have on tight, small-mid size track. We might switch to the long-span arms when we get out to the Tamiya track for the Reedy Race. Long-span arms also work very well when the bite is low.

Here's the bad part: I had terrible radio hits all night last night. For some reason the car was fine during practice, but during the qualifier and the main, the car was getting severe radio hits the turn right before the straightaway, and towards the end (when the car is at full speed). It was so bad that I just pulled it off during the 1st qualifier.

2nd qualifier, I threw on a bunch of capacitors, and it was still not enough, and the car was still glitching...but a bit better where I was able to finish. However, obviously not good enough to make the A again, (and trust me, I am sick of the B main ) Finally when the car is working good, I'm now struck with radio problems...*sigh* Anyway, out of 20 racers in the 19T class, I qualified 12th (2nd in the B).

In the main, I managed to cause a first turn pile up (totally my fault) but I came out of it in 2nd place, and manage to move pass the leader after one of his mistakes. I kept the lead (car still glitching) until the end, and won the B-Main...even with a glitching car, which sputters as I get on the straight, I still have the same speed as everyone else. And with a glitch, I was able to do a couple of 9.7 second laps, which the fastest guy was doing 9.4 second. I think I could've get closer to 9.4 second if I had a car that was 100% under my control

Because of the radio glitch, I also tested the durability of the R2 last night (against my will of course ) During the 2nd qualifier, the car veered straight into the poles that hold up the roof at full speed. The impact could be heard throughout the entire building, and it was so hard that my batteries went from straight, into the shape of a wave from the impact. But nothing on the car broke (I was shocked) just a twisted battery pack.

Our driver, RedBullfixx (who is also on this board) did very well last night, qualified his car into the A-main (7th) and finished in 3rd, even with the long arm setup. This is only his 3rd race with the "Cuda" and I am very proud of his achievement so far and his contribution with the development of the car.

One thing we did notice was the advantage of the small increments on the spring rates. we can move in small increments and that allow us to make fine tuning. Same goes for the sway bars, which we are beginning to experiment as well. I'll have the springs avaialble online soon.

Lastly, I took my M8 to Airtronics today, and everything checked out okay from receiver, to crystals, to the transmitter. The only thing they found that was wrong was my battery case, which was loose inside the transmitter. And that caused a bad connection with the battery plug inside, this might have something to do with it. Also, the rechargeable batteries I have was probably not putting out enough voltage, which against other people with a stronger signal on close frequency, might have caused the problem. During the qualifier I was on 69, and there was a guy on 68 in the same race.

If you guys have any questions, just post them on here, I'll try to answer them as quick as I can.

Thanks for reading guys, and I promise, I will make it into the A main! I'll be trying again next Tuesday!

Steve Wang

Steve and all of you guys.... Some good advice here..

All of you guys in the states seem to ba having glitching problems ....but I hav eyet to have one to this day with my Cuda's .... I think that It might have to do with the location of your guys recivers ????? not all of you guys seem to have this problem ...but most do.. Try mounting the reciver on top of the Servo and see what this does for you all .... I'm almost positive it will help some ..almost 90% of the Cuda Owners in Japan do this

-Dave
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Old 04-03-2003, 03:31 PM   #1740
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeedTech
Redbull,

After next Tuesday, lets come up with a good baseline setup so I can post it on www.alexracingusa.com I think by this tuesday, we should have a decent baseline setup with long-span arm and mid-span arm for high-bite asphalt track.

Steve Wang
Looking forward to seeing how different your guys set ups are than mine

-Dave
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