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Old 04-02-2003, 07:39 PM   #1711
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2Fast4U2
Thanks Dave, Steve.

Again thanks for help.

Tim
No Problem thats what every ones here to do on this thread... to help

-Dave
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Old 04-02-2003, 07:47 PM   #1712
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Doooooooo Tell

I want to here about this ...oh yeah the Alloy parts too

-Dave
Yeah, very interested to know how you guys did. Find any more speed secrets or anything we should avoid doing?

I'll probably drill the larger hole in my shock pistons after this weeks race, unless I get it to handle perfectly for indoors of course
The team event I was meant to race in on sunday has been postsponed, seems some teams just didn't bother booking in in the end

Steve what ever happened to the plsatic battery straps that weren't included in the kits? would there be a cheap way to post an alloy one internationaly, time not being important.
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:20 PM   #1713
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Default Re: Re: Internal drive ratio for R2

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Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Yes your right Mr.Technical 39/16=2.438....ect ect

-Dave
Hehe, just wanted to make sure, thanks. Btw, on the last page of the manual, no not the one that says "DID YOU GOOD MAKE??" there was this table with a graph
1.3 | | | | |
1.4 | | | | |
1.5 | | | | |
What are those numbers, camber, battery voltage, etc.? Thanks again. Good to see that you are awake! You have been sleeping all day, too much jet fuel/fumes last night?
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:21 PM   #1714
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Originally posted by Herminator
Yeah, very interested to know how you guys did. Find any more speed secrets or anything we should avoid doing?

I think that Steve will tell us tommorow.

-Dave
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:24 PM   #1715
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
I think that Steve will tell us tommorow.

-Dave
WAAHH!!! it's tomorrow already here, and where you are Dave, infact it must be something like 6.30am for you isn't it?
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:28 PM   #1716
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Hey Dave, whats the part number of the Associated heatsink that you use? there seems to be two and I like the narrow one in your pics, big fins too
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:33 PM   #1717
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Not Dave, but I think it is part #3927. It's blue and it matches the car. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTG83&P=K
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:41 PM   #1718
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thanks
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:56 PM   #1719
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Default Re: Re: Internal drive ratio for R2

Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Yes your right Mr.Technical 39/16=2.438....ect ect

-Dave
Actually, it comes out to 2.4375....but who is counting?

Mike
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:58 PM   #1720
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Default Re: Re: Re: Internal drive ratio for R2

Quote:
Originally posted by elnitro
Hehe, just wanted to make sure, thanks. Btw, on the last page of the manual, no not the one that says "DID YOU GOOD MAKE??" there was this table with a graph
1.3 | | | | |
1.4 | | | | |
1.5 | | | | |
What are those numbers, camber, battery voltage, etc.? Thanks again. Good to see that you are awake! You have been sleeping all day, too much jet fuel/fumes last night?
That chart is for the Spring rates

-Dave
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:22 PM   #1721
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Hi Guys,

They are sending me replacement battery trays, so as soon as I get them, I'll let you guys know and we'll take care of it from there.

Okay, here's how we did last night:

I tried out the car during practice with dual diffs first, and the car was very good. Very predictable going into and exiting turns. It has a slight push going in, but that's typically how it is with dual diffs, and I think with a few adjustments (different springs possibly) we can diminish the push a little more. The track last night was also not really suitable for dual diffs (it was a very fast track where each lap is around 9.7 seconds) so for the race, I put the one-way back in the car.

I tried the larger piston hole with 40wt oil, kit springs and kit shock location. Compare to last week, the larger piston hole with the slightly thinner oil (I was on 45wt last week) made the biggest difference. The car was planted around the turns and it rotates very well around the tight infield. I had several racers commenting on how well the car rotate around the turns. I was on the mid-span arms as well, which after more testing it was almost a necessity to have on tight, small-mid size track. We might switch to the long-span arms when we get out to the Tamiya track for the Reedy Race. Long-span arms also work very well when the bite is low.

Here's the bad part: I had terrible radio hits all night last night. For some reason the car was fine during practice, but during the qualifier and the main, the car was getting severe radio hits the turn right before the straightaway, and towards the end (when the car is at full speed). It was so bad that I just pulled it off during the 1st qualifier.

2nd qualifier, I threw on a bunch of capacitors, and it was still not enough, and the car was still glitching...but a bit better where I was able to finish. However, obviously not good enough to make the A again, (and trust me, I am sick of the B main ) Finally when the car is working good, I'm now struck with radio problems...*sigh* Anyway, out of 20 racers in the 19T class, I qualified 12th (2nd in the B).

In the main, I managed to cause a first turn pile up (totally my fault) but I came out of it in 2nd place, and manage to move pass the leader after one of his mistakes. I kept the lead (car still glitching) until the end, and won the B-Main...even with a glitching car, which sputters as I get on the straight, I still have the same speed as everyone else. And with a glitch, I was able to do a couple of 9.7 second laps, which the fastest guy was doing 9.4 second. I think I could've get closer to 9.4 second if I had a car that was 100% under my control

Because of the radio glitch, I also tested the durability of the R2 last night (against my will of course ) During the 2nd qualifier, the car veered straight into the poles that hold up the roof at full speed. The impact could be heard throughout the entire building, and it was so hard that my batteries went from straight, into the shape of a wave from the impact. But nothing on the car broke (I was shocked) just a twisted battery pack.

Our driver, RedBullfixx (who is also on this board) did very well last night, qualified his car into the A-main (7th) and finished in 3rd, even with the long arm setup. This is only his 3rd race with the "Cuda" and I am very proud of his achievement so far and his contribution with the development of the car.

One thing we did notice was the advantage of the small increments on the spring rates. we can move in small increments and that allow us to make fine tuning. Same goes for the sway bars, which we are beginning to experiment as well. I'll have the springs avaialble online soon.

Lastly, I took my M8 to Airtronics today, and everything checked out okay from receiver, to crystals, to the transmitter. The only thing they found that was wrong was my battery case, which was loose inside the transmitter. And that caused a bad connection with the battery plug inside, this might have something to do with it. Also, the rechargeable batteries I have was probably not putting out enough voltage, which against other people with a stronger signal on close frequency, might have caused the problem. During the qualifier I was on 69, and there was a guy on 68 in the same race.

If you guys have any questions, just post them on here, I'll try to answer them as quick as I can.

Thanks for reading guys, and I promise, I will make it into the A main! I'll be trying again next Tuesday!

Steve Wang
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:33 PM   #1722
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Steve,
Radio glitch sucks. When everything else fails, just cause a pile up. Please don't forget to post Redbull's setup. Thanks.
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:59 PM   #1723
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Smile Setup for Nitro Cudas

what a difference an s makes...

Nitro: here's the deal. I have been trying to nail a setup for the Pit 36R tyres, which it as it turns out was not a fruitful path. Switching to Pit 30s.

However there are a few things we have found to be quite beneficial to the performance of the car.

- Lighter damping (1mm holes in pistons, or 100-200wt oil like the manual states)

- rear hubcarriers with -1 or -2.5 deg rear toe

-1 or 1.2mm rear sway bars for more steering as desired.

Hope to have something more solid soon, but right now it looks like Steve has the best of the 3 Cudas at the track, the other Cuda with Mid-Span arms is also quite good.

rbf
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Old 04-02-2003, 11:13 PM   #1724
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Redbull,

After next Tuesday, lets come up with a good baseline setup so I can post it on www.alexracingusa.com I think by this tuesday, we should have a decent baseline setup with long-span arm and mid-span arm for high-bite asphalt track.

Steve Wang
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Old 04-02-2003, 11:36 PM   #1725
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Thanks guys. Keep us posted.
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