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Old 09-10-2004, 10:24 AM   #16
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A guy on another site bought one, here is his report

Ok. Heres the report. Its not what I expected. It is hard to use in the traditional soldering iron way. It will not melt on contact. It will not heat up by itself. I was tempted to return it but after burning in the tip and figuring out a technique in using it, I was able to resolder wires with regularity.

The technique is to burn in the tip. Then when soldering a joint, keep it at the intended target for some time, making sure that the red led is lighted (meaning it is heating). When the joint solder melts, attach the wire. Then re-heat the joint to properly solder and strengthen the attachment. It will take a few tries to satifactorily make a good joint.

If I had another option for field maintenance at this price level, I'd take it. However, there is none. I have a $ 25 soldering torch and it leaks after sometime in storage. I dont want to go the $ 100.00 route.

Do I recommend it, no. I'd say, try one first before making a puchase. I'm keeping mine though as an emergency tool. Its easy enough to borrow 4 AAs at the field to juice up the tool and do a quick fix.

JT
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Old 09-10-2004, 11:26 AM   #17
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On the "As Seen On Tv" website I believe it said it was only rated for 18 guage wire I think......
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Old 09-10-2004, 01:39 PM   #18
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I had a butane soldering iron from radio shack it was 20.00 & it got hot in about 20-30 sec, it was rated at 1400 F, i was able to do motor wires, battery wires, even battery bars, it also has a pencil tip but a large one, but i left in my tool box in the sun one day & it blew up like an M-80, blew the lid off my tool box, scattered parts everywhere.
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Old 09-10-2004, 04:54 PM   #19
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So basically you heat the thing you want to solder first and put the solder on it? That may be a little hard to do.
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Old 09-11-2004, 11:33 PM   #20
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well my iron arived today and all i have to say is, what a waste of money. The cold heat iron barely gets warm enough to melt the solder by itseft, its completely useless.
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Old 09-11-2004, 11:39 PM   #21
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you get what you pay for. buy a good soldering iron/station, don't be cheap.
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Old 09-11-2004, 11:57 PM   #22
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The iron I use is only like $15 without a stand from the hobby shop. And it's awesome. Even on doin batteries. The tip is just the right size for doin that. But kinda a pain for doin shunts on motors due to it's size.

Guess it's good that I waited on getting one of these irons. I figured it wouldn't do the job. But curious to see if would anyways. That's why I waited for someone to post up on it..
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Old 09-13-2004, 10:31 AM   #23
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I was thinking it might be ok for putting batteries in the car when I go to no power tracks but it didn't work out that way.

Mark
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Old 09-13-2004, 04:45 PM   #24
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Hmm how about tossing brushes on a motor? The shunts are small enough..

I just bring my DC soldering iron when I know I'll need an iron at the track.
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Old 09-13-2004, 05:14 PM   #25
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Is there a Satisfaction Money Back Guarrantee? Send it back.

We were interested in this thing not because we are cheap like AWOL suggested, but because it's small. It's a pain lugging around my Hakko. Especially when I race gas and electric at club races.

Oh well.... guess I'll continue lug around the Hakko.

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Old 09-13-2004, 05:21 PM   #26
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personally, i use a big iron that gets really hot, so i only have 2 b on the spot for not even a second, and get rite off...the area cools really fast...i think it works...
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Old 09-13-2004, 05:30 PM   #27
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no real garuntee, but it was only $20.- so no big deal.
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